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Hello fellow memebers.

Been out of snowmobiling for a year or two, (consistent snowmobiling that is)

Anyhow on my 1996 Mxz 583 with Reverse the chaincase oil looks like chocolate milk, real thick and milky on the dip stick. My question is how hard is it to change out?? Do I need to pay any particular attention if i were to take it apart for a good cleaning because of my installed reverse?? Are pieces going to start falling like rain if I open the case?

Also back in 96 when i bought the sled i also bought a quart of skidoo synthetic chain case oil, should i still use it? Been stored in a heated garage ever since that time, just curious on what the shelf life would be. If the oil seems like crap what would be a good alternative? sythetic car oil? what weight? 5w-30?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as we have had a wicked winter so far and have a serious itch to hop back on the old bomber and go for a scoot!

Thanks
 

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Yellow583 said:
Hello fellow memebers.

Been out of snowmobiling for a year or two, (consistent snowmobiling that is)

Anyhow on my 1996 Mxz 583 with Reverse the chaincase oil looks like chocolate milk, real thick and milky on the dip stick. My question is how hard is it to change out?? Do I need to pay any particular attention if i were to take it apart for a good cleaning because of my installed reverse?? Are pieces going to start falling like rain if I open the case?

Also back in 96 when i bought the sled i also bought a quart of skidoo synthetic chain case oil, should i still use it? Been stored in a heated garage ever since that time, just curious on what the shelf life would be. If the oil seems like crap what would be a good alternative? sythetic car oil? what weight? 5w-30?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as we have had a wicked winter so far and have a serious itch to hop back on the old bomber and go for a scoot!

Thanks

not sure on the raining parts thing,you might want to buy a manual.your oil will be fine to use.don't use anything but chaincase oil.gear oil,engine oil etc will not stand up.
[snapback]284071[/snapback]​
 

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I am not sure for shelf life but check under the sled for a drainplug hole through the belly pan. If there isn't you can pull the cover, nothing is going to come falling out on you. When reinstalling the cover be careful to tighten all the bolts in unison. ie tighten one about halfway go to the next, all the way around and then start tightening all the bolts slowly all the way around again. Last year when I took my cover off i just tightened one right in and then the next and it ended up leaking all over the place. Be warned if you are going to buy bombi synthetic chaincase oil its about 20 bucks CDN for 355 ml.

I am not sure if the S2000 chassis had a drainplug or not. If you could find out, ie ask a dealer you could drill a small hole in the belly pan to allow access to the drain plug. the plug makes life soooo much easier.
 

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Yellow583 said:
Hello fellow memebers.

Been out of snowmobiling for a year or two, (consistent snowmobiling that is)

Anyhow on my 1996 Mxz 583 with Reverse the chaincase oil looks like chocolate milk, real thick and milky on the dip stick. My question is how hard is it to change out?? Do I need to pay any particular attention if i were to take it apart for a good cleaning because of my installed reverse?? Are pieces going to start falling like rain if I open the case?

Also back in 96 when i bought the sled i also bought a quart of skidoo synthetic chain case oil, should i still use it? Been stored in a heated garage ever since that time, just curious on what the shelf life would be. If the oil seems like crap what would be a good alternative? sythetic car oil? what weight? 5w-30?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as we have had a wicked winter so far and have a serious itch to hop back on the old bomber and go for a scoot!

Thanks
[snapback]284071[/snapback]​
Good info on how to change the oil in the chaincase. If you need more just do a search on this site--tons more info. IMO i would stick to the synthetic chaincase oil called for by Bombi or aftermarket manufacturer. Brake fluid works great to clean out the chaincase pan and cavity. As far as the oil, no problems. It's fine. Good Luck!
 

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You don't have a drain plug on that sled. I use a plactic grocery bag and place it under the chaincase to catch the oil then loosen the 4 bolts. Remove cover and I will take out the sprockets and chain. I then clean the inside of chain case cover. Re install chain and sprockets then cover using a star pattern to slowly tighten the 4 bolts then add 8.5 oz of that chain case oil you have and then tighten the chain tension finger tight. Back off enough to get the clip in.

Your done ride!!
 

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97mxz670 said:
You don't have a drain plug on that sled. I use a plactic grocery bag and place it under the chaincase to catch the oil then loosen the 4 bolts. Remove cover and I will take out the sprockets and chain. I then clean the inside of chain case cover. Re install chain and sprockets then cover using a star pattern to slowly tighten the 4 bolts then add 8.5 oz of that chain case oil you have and then tighten the chain tension finger tight. Back off enough to get the clip in.

Your done ride!!
[snapback]284331[/snapback]​
That's all you need to know, easier than it looks!
 

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Acutally for the S-2000 chassis, I use a little sucker-pump thing (for lack of a better term), it's kinda like a pump with a resovoir on one end and a hose on the other end. I suck all the chaincase oil out, add new oil, clean dipstick a few times, make sure metal shavings are minimal, and bam, you're done.
 

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Ram said:
The plastic bag works great. Just did my 670 and never spiled a drop. Even if you suck out the old, I'd stick crack it open to wipe all the old stuff out.
[snapback]288669[/snapback]​
Good point.
 
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