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free candy
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Since i move my sled twice a year i don't want to spend the $$ on a single place trailer so i came up with this:
I have a 2006 F-150 STX with a 5'-6" box. These plans can easily change for whatever size box you have.
With the sled loaded the track will hang off by less than 4"

Plans:



Materials:
(2) 3/4" 4x8 sheet plywood (bought for $10 a piece off craigslist)
(4) 2x6x8'
(5) 2x4x8'
(4) eye screws
(4) turnbuckles
(1) used bed liner (bought a 8' Chevy liner off craigslist for $20)
(2) hinges
various screws, nails, beer

I cut up the bed liner after hosing out 10 years of old motor oil.
It was my luck that I bought a bed liner that had weird traction in the pattern, never seen it before.
I used these 6" wide strips as sliders for the ramps.
I got 3 total, 2 long ones for the ramp and 1 cut in 1/2 and screwed to the deck.
If anyone wants the traction part they are still laying in the garage.
The bed liner was easy to cut up with a circ. saw.


I built the ramps in the garage, you can see the bed liner strip and plywood blocking used for traction.
Note the heater in the background. It can warm the garage from 40 to 70 in under 10 minutes.


I built the 2x6 deck in the back of the truck. Here i am putting the blocking in the far end of the deck
between the 3 joists. After, I spun it around and attached to the bed.


I used turnbuckles in the corners to attach it to the bed. The turnbuckle came with 1 hook and 1 eye,
I sawed a little off the eye to create 2 hooks. I mounted the screw eye slightly higher and away from the bed hook.
When tightened it pulls the deck down and towards the cab.


I then attached the end of the deck with the hinges. This way i can close the tailgate when i am driving around all week.
The ramps stay in the garage. This is totally optional, you could make it all rigid. I prefer to hide it




When the sled is on the truck, the ramps will fit under the deck like this.


This is what the ramps look like extended.


I used a 1/2" bolt with a wing nut to hold the ramp to the deck while loading. This same bolt keeps the ramp
bolted to the deck when stored (drilled holes at both ends)


I'll lose the toolbox after hunting season
 

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www.extremegraphicwraps.com
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THATS SWEET, NICE WORK
GREAT IDEA USING AN OLD BED LINER, I NEED SOME SKI GUIDES FOR MY ENCLOSED TRAILER AND THIS WILL SAVE ME A FORTUNE.

THANKS AGAIN..
 

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I take it you remove the tool box before hand. If you raised it up, would the front end clear?

You spliced it right at the tailgate so the overhanging weight is still being held basically on the TG straps. Through another hinge in the center of the flap through the 2x. There will be some tension at the hinges because of weight, 3 is better.

You may want some more ski guide material at the front or edge rails. You dont want to come to the top of the ramp and slide off to the edge. Nice setup though!
 

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That is really cool. I love that idea. I was trying to figure out an Idea for my s10. Something like that never even crossed my mind. way to go.
 

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free candy
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Thanks for all the comments...

The tool box is going to come out, it's deeper that the distance from my bumper to tip of skis. My brother in law was over for dinner so we took it out tonight

I am going to add a 3rd hinge, next time i go to HD

The hinge point is the same as the TG hinge so yes, those cables do carry the weight of the sled. That point is right at the middle of the skid so it's not taking the whole load. I have an idea how to make a rigid connection between the two using 3/4" black iron pipe that slides, kind of like a gate latch.

I would have liked to run the bed liner the whole length of the deck but i was only able to get (3) 8' pieces so that meant two 8' for the ramp and two 4' pieces for the deck. I might move them back closer to the top of the ramp.

Tomorrow i'll attempt to load the sled.
 

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Flyin Fox Daddy X3
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31,302 Posts
I take it you remove the tool box before hand. If you raised it up, would the front end clear?

You spliced it right at the tailgate so the overhanging weight is still being held basically on the TG straps. Through another hinge in the center of the flap through the 2x. There will be some tension at the hinges because of weight, 3 is better.

You may want some more ski guide material at the front or edge rails. You dont want to come to the top of the ramp and slide off to the edge. Nice setup though!
Yeah I'd throw another hinge on there as well. But he will have the full length 2x4's under the ramp when the sled is on there, just in case there is too much weight on the tailgate. But I doubt that will be an issue.

Nice ramp and deck.
 

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Wonderful Job!
I have hauled sleds in the back of my 05 f150 many times and the tailgate will not be an issue. There is very little weight directly on it.
One thing I might suggest if I may....Is to use pressure treated lumber.
 

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free candy
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The original idea was inspired by the guy with the ridge line, i remember seeing pics of that last year.

PT would have been the way to go but i (my wife) didn't want to spend $$. I think i am going to buy a can of rustoleum and paint it red as soon as it gets above freezing outside.
 

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I bought a set of aluminum tri-fold ramps for $150. They weight about 20 pounds and fold up to be about 16" x 8" x 6 feet (fit under the sled, between the track & fender-hump nicely). Also cost about 1/2 hour of my time & 1/4 liter of gas to drive to the store. Unless the materials were free & your time is worthless, I can't see how you can save much money.
 

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I bought a set of aluminum tri-fold ramps for $150. They weight about 20 pounds and fold up to be about 16" x 8" x 6 feet (fit under the sled, between the track & fender-hump nicely). Also cost about 1/2 hour of my time & 1/4 liter of gas to drive to the store. Unless the materials were free & your time is worthless, I can't see how you can save much money.
Where did you buy them?
 

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free candy
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6' is kinda short for a ramp on a 4wd truck?
Besides that, I spent less than 1/2 of what you paid for a ramp.
But i understand working with your hands and power tools isn't for everyone.

I bought my aluminum Tri-Fold ramps for $100......Took fifteen minutes in the store.......they weigh about 15 pounds, and take up hardly any room.
 

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dobbs,
Nice job on the ramp. I like how you put the hinges in it for closing the TG when the sled is not in it. Taking a full sheet in and out every time you use it could get to be bothersome. I'd like to see some pics of the sled loaded when you get the chance. I have done something similar to you, but instead of making the ramps as boxes, I just used 2x10x8ft for the ramps. I did get some bed liner for the ramps over the summer. It's almost time for me to get the sled out of storage, so I will have to make some changes to my set-up. As you said about the hinge area, to make it more rigid for the loading pressure of the sled coming at the ramps and riding up them, it's gonna need some attention. It'll be a while, but I'll try to get some pics up of my set-up.

yellowsnow,
There's more than one way to skin a cat as they say. It's good to hear from others, how they have solved problems that you yourself may come across. It seems your ramp is getting pricier and heavier the more you post about it. Also, you say you store the ramp under the track between the fender humps nicely. Does that mean you have to lift the sled to get the ramp under it?
And then lift it to get it out to unload?
I don't get it. How is that a better/easier way than to come up with a homemade remedy? Try to take in as much as you put out.
 
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