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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all .. I have a 05 summit 800
Ran great last season, this year it wants to idle high for maybe 30 seconds after a run then idles down. It also idled low one day just about ready to stall/
I pulled carbs and inspected boots and they look good.
When pulling air box there was a bit of ice in it...
Also the carb heater was off.
Starts fine and pulls hard....
Could the hearer off be my problem..?? Thanks all
 

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No keep the carb heater in the off position. Mine likes to idle high after a run, it has been like that since new, I flip the choke for about half a second and it goes to the normal idle. There is a reason for it, the carb spacers maybe, but I am not sure. But for sure keep the carb heaters off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No keep the carb heater in the off position. Mine likes to idle high after a run, it has been like that since new, I flip the choke for about half a second and it goes to the normal idle. There is a reason for it, the carb spacers maybe, but I am not sure. But for sure keep the carb heaters off.
Ya thats what I thought... I had a 800 renegade for a few years and the carb heaters were always off, and it was awsome. I bought the summit last year with a popped motor, and the heater was in the ON position, then I rebuilt it and left them off last year and it ran good... Thanks
 

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Are these flat slide carburetors? If not then this won't apply. I have a 97 700sx Yamaha with 25,000 miles and flat slides. Last few years it always idled high after a hard run. I believe I figured out that it was due to wearing of the flat slides and where they ride in the carb body. This allows more air to get around flat slides and causes the high idle. Ended up taking them apart and leaving out a gasket and sealing it with permatex. This closed down the gap on the flat part of the slide and cured my high idle. Also may be able to cure with a little larger pilot jet to compensate for the extra air. I use this to cure a high idle in my 87 banshee flat slides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have some delam happening on the boots. New ones on the way. I also cleaned and dryed out the air box and wrapped the foam up in a nylon stocking to get a bit better filter.
 

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I have some delam happening on the boots. New ones on the way. I also cleaned and dryed out the air box and wrapped the foam up in a nylon stocking to get a bit better filter.
Check the tiny screw by the big idle screw, it sincs the slides.
I learned this today with a high idle problem on a 600.

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I had the same issue with my 04 800 Rev, took forever to find but it the problem was under the top cap of the carbs that hold the slides tight against the E-clip. Both springs had warn through an end of the spring... You can check it super easy by seeing if you can take your finger and move the slides freely up and down about 8mm. If you can pop off the 2 socket head cap screws on top of each carb, rotate the cam to bring the slides to the top, and look at the tiny spring down there. They are $15. Seems like under vacuum the slide and float up allowing more air and a lean condition at idle (high idle). Replacing mine tonight.
 

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Are these flat slide carburetors? If not then this won't apply. I have a 97 700sx Yamaha with 25,000 miles and flat slides. Last few years it always idled high after a hard run. I believe I figured out that it was due to wearing of the flat slides and where they ride in the carb body. This allows more air to get around flat slides and causes the high idle. Ended up taking them apart and leaving out a gasket and sealing it with permatex. This closed down the gap on the flat part of the slide and cured my high idle. Also may be able to cure with a little larger pilot jet to compensate for the extra air. I use this to cure a high idle in my 87 banshee flat slides.
He's got flat slides so it applies, but that's not why I am replying. First I want to thank you for sharing your experience with the gasket delete, and everything else for that matter. I was going to move onto something else until I realized that there may not be a gasket there other than an o-ring. However, it has me think there might be a way to sand down one the two sides for a closer fit.

The only way that I remember this is from one particular topic for a sled that was stuttering on acceleration. The cause was found to be with this o-ring. I never have to dive that deep into carbs, but being on DooTalk I get to see things that I would never have thought of.

The second thing I wanted to say, this is a really cool thread. We lost two good and sharp people who passed away in the last couple of years - TwoRevs and DOO_TINT. I think they would be happy with the amount of experience shown in this thread.

Third, I wanted to ask if you prefer to run a sled with carb heaters in the ON or OFF position. I have contemplated turning them off from what I read, but I have never been able to because I have seen icing happen from air intake and water in the gas. I never ride close to another sled other than the time we meet-up or take-off. I cannot get myself to ride in a cloud of snow dust other than for a short period. And that is the main reason that I run with it ON and with premix in the tank. When I consider vintage sleds running on premix with no air filter, I tend to follow the same principal. When one of my buddies tells me that they don't and have no problems, I answer that they are always ahead! lol This leads me to another question as I see you tend to get high mileage from your sleds. Do you tend to ride ahead?
 

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I didn't go into detail but not only did I have to leave the gasket out but there was some tabs in that area that kept you from squishing the gasket too much and I had to sand down those tabs too to get it to tighten up the flat slide gaps.
 
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