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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well seeing as this is the off-season, it's time for maintenance, repairs and mods.

I just finished bracing my tunnel to death and repairing my rails... now I'm on to the HID lighting upgrade.

The kit says that the -ve and +ve wires that supply power to the ballasts must be connected to the battery. Well, my SWT has the battery located back under the seat, so to go from the headlamps to the battery will require about 12ft of cabling and the hands of a contortionist to feed anything back there cleanly.

I believe that Tchiwam installed a set of these on this Skandic WT 500F and I'm curious to know where he tapped into. Considering that his battery is under the hood he may not have had a problem to tie into his, but I'll take suggestions from anybody who has worked with HID's before. Even if I could tie into the starter +ve lead it would be easier than going all the way back to the battery.
 

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If you can find a good D/C feed it should work fine the starter would be a good place an inline fuse would be a good ideal be sure you also have the D/C ground it is different from the A/C ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you can find a good D/C feed it should work fine the starter would be a good place an inline fuse would be a good ideal be sure you also have the D/C ground it is different from the A/C ground.
I would REALLY like to tie into something in the harness at the bulbs/speedo/tach if possible, but I have to review to see if the V800 SWT has a DC or AC wiring system. Tying into the starter +ve and the engine ground would be a possibility, but almost as bad as going back to the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmmm there is a 12V socket in the dash that I could potentially tap into for the HID's. I'll have to check the fuse limits on that before making much of a decision.... be real convenient if I could splice off that feed though.
 

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Hmmm there is a 12V socket in the dash that I could potentially tap into for the HID's. I'll have to check the fuse limits on that before making much of a decision.... be real convenient if I could splice off that feed though.
If it has a battery it should have two systems A/C and D/C The D/C side is regulated and will supply pretty good D/C with enough wattage to power your lights. I would check the current draw of your HID's to make sure you can use a smaller qauge wire to power them up. The - side of the D/C and the A/C are not the same so be sure to find the D/C ground wire or it will do strange things. I'm not sure but maybe the face shield socket is D/C If you have a multi meter check your voltage on the D/C setting it won't work if it reads A/C.
 

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The HID thing ... humm here are my plus and minus after a full winter use. Some of these might be different as I think that if you loose the 12VDC you loose all your engine, while I don't. I'll put more than you need in there so that others can make the decision too...

Pro:
-Best amount of light to run on rivers and long flats where you really want to see ahead.
-Great contrast at night in forest (Mine are 4300K)
-Still some light without the engine running
-Busted regulator will give you about 4 hours of light on the battery with one lamp

Con:
- DC side problems and you loose the lights... eventually
- Longevity in the real cold unknown (1.5 winters done so far so good)
- Might not always start properly after engine start (some 9VDC shutdown protection requires a 0V to reset)
- With 2 lamps it can melt you harness on startup, you might want a delay relay of about 2 seconds on the second lamp.

Real projector vs H4 adapters...

Projector:
+ Best light I've had (4300K)
+ No glare in snow storms
+ No incoming sled complains
+ Worked between -35 and -40C
+ same or less power consumption than H4 (after starting)
- Add about 160$ cost
- More work and can break your headlight cluster for real good
- More start up juice needed !!

H4 Adapter
+ Cheaper
+ Can swap a H4 back in there, can find H4 lamp anywhere
- Snow glare
- "edit for bad language" off incoming sleders

Remember that I have 2x 50W...

I did melt my harness 2 times this winter, so you need a proper gauge wire, the ones I melted were between the regulator and the battery and then from the battery to the starter wire (since the battery is only connected to the starter by a big wire) So I'd go for at least 1.5mm2 or gauge 14 (?) for all that circuit and then go for at least 1.0mm to the lamps.

The new type of connectors between the regulator and the stator are better, the old blade type will simply melt...

I've added a AC relay that stops the lamps while the engine stops and made the key to also kill it, that way it is as close to original in behavior. The V800 relay for lamps will die with HID ballast because of the start spike, so you need to cascade another relay in there. BTW these relays are already getting very hot and will die if you don't clean and recrimp the socket once in a while, they are a weak spot of the V800.

I hope this helps a little. Check some of my other post with videos I've done with Nalle
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is going slowly... I will be supplying 12V power right from the battery, I do not trust the wires supplying the 12V DC power outlet to carry the running or startup amperage required for the ballasts.

Now I have to try to fish two wires back under the tank, through the seat support and back to the battery... ugh. God give me patience for this one
 

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Painful , but a dedicated , fused circuit really takes the guess work out of accessory wiring .

Good to hear I'm not the only one kicking dirt clods around the yard
 

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This is going slowly... I will be supplying 12V power right from the battery, I do not trust the wires supplying the 12V DC power outlet to carry the running or startup amperage required for the ballasts.

Now I have to try to fish two wires back under the tank, through the seat support and back to the battery... ugh. God give me patience for this one
Be sure to fuse it at the battery to protect the wires going up front I know this sounds nuts but it would be a good ideal to fuse the negative also because if you lost your ground to the starter it will find a path through you nice new HID's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The install is finally done, yikes that took a while. The hardest part was cleanly running a dedicated + and - wire from the battery right up to the head lamp area; in order to do it right, I had to remove the seat, trim under passenger seat & rack, battery, underseat cargo area steel box frame and pry the fuel tank up enough to fish two wires underneath it. It was a lot of work, but I'm glad I took it all apart to clean things up, install a new cargo area mat and tighten/replace all of the loosey goosey stuff I found.

I had to mount 2 ballasts, 1 control module, a 20A fuse block and 2 other black boxes to get them to work. It was tight, but I managed to fit all components b/t the hood and the black plastic close-off panel under the lights. Also had to ditch the reflector covers directly on the bulbs to fit them into an H4 head lamp hole, but once fully wired, they worked on the first try and responded to the dimmer switch right away. They also go to full brightness after less than 5s and the switch from Hi to Lo is instantaneous, which is a bonus.

In the end, I determined that I did not need to run heavier wires straight from the battery


It looked like the HID kit had some significant wire sizing on the + and - hookups, but after the protective loom is removed, they're tiny 18ga wires just like the rest of the snowmobile harness! I wired up a dedicated 14ga circuit from the battery, but if I were to do this again, I think I'd piggyback it straight off the DC outlet in the dash and call it good enough. Disappointing after doing ALL of that work, but at least I know it's a job well done at the end of the day.

FYI for switching, the HID kit plugs right into one of the old H4 bulb female harness pigtails, so it's quite plug and play.

The kit I used was from www.sharpHID.com and the details are as follows:

DDM 55w Hi/Lo HID Conversion Kit
Item# , Bulb Type: H4/9003 hi/lo , Bulb Temperature: 6000K

I had better buy myself a couple of spare bulbs ASAP now that I think about it.

I'll try to post some more pics soon, but my time was so erratic on this one that it made it difficult to take many and remain productive. Appears to be a compact, robust kit, but I'll run it for a while before I judge it.
 

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Well seeing as this is the off-season, it's time for maintenance, repairs and mods.

I just finished bracing my tunnel to death and repairing my rails... now I'm on to the HID lighting upgrade.

The kit says that the -ve and +ve wires that supply power to the ballasts must be connected to the battery. Well, my SWT has the battery located back under the seat, so to go from the headlamps to the battery will require about 12ft of cabling and the hands of a contortionist to feed anything back there cleanly.

I believe that Tchiwam installed a set of these on this Skandic WT 500F and I'm curious to know where he tapped into. Considering that his battery is under the hood he may not have had a problem to tie into his, but I'll take suggestions from anybody who has worked with HID's before. Even if I could tie into the starter +ve lead it would be easier than going all the way back to the battery.
Rob did you put any thought into location and trying to keep your ballasts warm???

K
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Rob did you put any thought into location and trying to keep your ballasts warm???

K
Well, I only had a short wiring harness b/t the ballasts and the bulbs, so they had to be close to the headlamp itself. On the Yeti II chassis sleds, there is a close-off panel located directly underneath the gauges/12V port/headlamp and I was able to contain all of the ballasts/electrical directly in this "hump" area of the hood between the headlamp and the gauge panel. The V800 makes lots of engine - and especially exhaust - heat so I don't think that warmth will be an issue.
 

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Just a note, the 12v outlet in the dash is on the same circuit as the gauges and other "accessories." I'm not sure if you would wan't to run anything that draws alot off of this source.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Honestly, I am more concerned about snow getting into the area behind the headlamp (getting behind the headlamp mask) and through the small holes in the hood for wires into the ballast area when the ole' SWT decides to dip her nose sometime when I discover a creek or drift. They are sealed units, so I don't see them having issues, but I am curious as to what will happen.
 

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Thanks once again guys for another great idea..... here's a couple of pics of my 'slim' ballast install for my new HID's from Sharphid ......first ....... the location is under the black cover on the underside of the hood...... CS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, that looks quite familiar


Did you have to remove the covers over the bulbs in order to fit them into the headlamp housing's H4 halogen slots?
 

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Hey LB....thanx for the great HID idea
....... had to use a sharp box cutter to carefully cut off the inner flange of rubber (facing the bulb itself) on each bulb cover, then it fit ok. ......Took hid bulb out of base (push twist) installed altered cover (without inner flange), then put bulb back in base (push twist). Then put bulb in lense with cover flopped inside out or away from lense, secured bulb with original locking ring, then flopped rubber cover over back of lense.......I think that's how I did it!! .... but I do remember cutting off that flange to make it go over the bulb/base assembly because there wasn't enought room for all of it......the cover has an inner and outer flange, the inner flange is larger than the outer..... thats the one I cut off....... I should have taken a pic of it but it's all back together now
.... hope that helps! ...... CS.
 

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Hey LB....thanx for the great HID idea
....... had to use a sharp box cutter to carefully cut off the inner flange of rubber (facing the bulb itself) on each bulb cover, then it fit ok. ......Took hid bulb out of base (push twist) installed altered cover (without inner flange), then put bulb back in base (push twist). Then put bulb in lense with cover flopped inside out or away from lense, secured bulb with original locking ring, then flopped rubber cover over back of lense.......I think that's how I did it!! .... but I do remember cutting off that flange to make it go over the bulb/base assembly because there wasn't enought room for all of it......the cover has an inner and outer flange, the inner flange is larger than the outer..... thats the one I cut off....... I should have taken a pic of it but it's all back together now
.... hope that helps! ...... CS.
Actually CanSkan, I was talking about the little metal covers over the bulb filaments themselves. Did you have to remove those to make the HID bulbs fit in your headlamp housing?

I had to haul mine off.
 

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Actually CanSkan, I was talking about the little metal covers over the bulb filaments themselves. Did you have to remove those to make the HID bulbs fit in your headlamp housing?

I had to haul mine off.
Oh I got ya...... yes I had to use a round file and while holding the headlight lense with the bulb hole down to the floor (so the dust wouldn't contaminate the inner lense), widened the bulb hole just enough to allow the metal bulb cover to slip into the lense (it wasn't much). I then used a shop vac to suck out the extra dust I created with the round file. Sorry, I forgot about that
. It was then that I cut the larger rubber inner flang off the rubber cover to make that fit also..... CS.
 
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