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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So last year I built my XP1000. It was LOTS of work and we didn't have any snow, due to this it was very hard to ride in the trees and keep on edge as you can imagine with only a foot or 2 to ride in. Looking for ways to solve this issue and make it lighter and smaller, easier to sidehill, I remembered riding a snowhawk back 10+ years ago and loved it. So I took one for a spin again and again, loved it, but I didn't want some 15 year old thing with no parts and old tech.

So then I rode a timbersled bike 450 4 stroke. That sealed the deal, riding regular sleds isn't even in the same league for fun, but WAY short on power and the manual transmission wasn't going to work. After a few months of measuring and planning I set out to change how I ride forever.

I bought this wrecked sled, 09 800r 154"

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Even with a S36 kit a summit is roughly 38-39" wide at the outside of the skis, and 37" wide plastics. I am building this sled with a MAXIMUM width of 29".

To solve all my problems, use a 160hp 800r with belt drive (no shifting!!) have all the new stuff I want like reverse, gauges, comfort and parts availability, and make it all work.

So how do you narrow a sled 10"? it isn't easy but is coming together VERY nicely thus far. If I had started with a sled that wasn't totaled it would be about done already but this was a bit of work to make straight.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So you might be asking yourself, " how do you make it narrower when the clutch is the widest part of the sled?"

Simple, use a chassis (the XP is perfect) that allows you to move the motor so it is slightly offset to the right, versus being majorly offset to the left!

It was all so easy when it came to me, tons of pictures and measuring on my XP I saw how to do it.

XR chassis 1200 casting for the MAG side looks like it was designed for this very purpose.

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Now another problem, moving the motor makes using the front cooler impossible without MAJOR surgery, and moving the tower for the secondary clutch you cant just bolt it to a flimsy tunnel. Solution was since the 154 has enough cooler already get rid of the bulkhead cooler and bolt in a large 1/8" aluminum plate to seal it up and add an enormous amount of strength. This also gives something to tie the extra engine casting into on the clutch side. Clutch tower is solved by bolting with 3 bolts on the bottom, I can lift the sled with it and it doesn't move.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some other minor details since im thinking about it

Due to space I opted to run premix and ditch the oil tank, for one these motors seem to last much longer and 2 I don't feel like making a new aluminum tank. I can always add it back later but I have no idea at this point if I will need that space to mount things.

I did the RAVE mod to get rid of the un needed vacuum hoses.

For now to gain enough clearance to run a set of angled pods, and make room for coolant hoses I opted to move the fuel tank and pyramid to the rear 3/4". As I will be cutting the running boards off and using a set of footpegs the position is actually better by doing this so I see no downside. It also allows me to shorten the nose of the sled by the same amount since that will be just wasted space with storage for a bottle of oil or 2
 

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Ukranian Mafia
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Two thumbs up for innovation man...be very curious to see how this goes. Are you going to look into narrowing the track slightly? I would have to think moving to a 14.5" wide or similar would be mor einline with what you are looking to achieve. The 16 wide seems counter productive.
 

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I dig the ditch the running boards idea in leau of footpegs. I have a similar idea planned for a mod sled i want to build with some other custom tunnel mods. ???? keep up the good work!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will be experimenting with the track since it is the crappy huge ported one. Eventually will have a 15" new track. With the 1/8" plate I can't go bigger than a 2.25" without using 7t drivers, which is fine as a 2.5 will be plenty and a 3" overkill.

I also have to run a non OD clutch or I can't get the belt on and off, so I stole the pb80 off the 1000 and its tight but works

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Little different though when you are packing snow in front of the track. I don't think this sled could get stuck with a 2.5", and I will likely buy the 2.6" Polaris track that looks like the cats meow. Remember a 136" snowhawk can easily follow around 146 and 154" sleds all day. Plus I don't want to deal with the downsides of a 3". I don't ride anywhere I would need it
 

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Little different though when you are packing snow in front of the track. I don't think this sled could get stuck with a 2.5", and I will likely buy the 2.6" Polaris track that looks like the cats meow. Remember a 136" snowhawk can easily follow around 146 and 154" sleds all day. Plus I don't want to deal with the downsides of a 3". I don't ride anywhere I would need it
nobody needs a 3" track but they sure do add to the fun
 

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Armchair Interweb Coach
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What's this RAVE mod I keep hearing about?
to convert them back to the old style raves that worked on exhaust pressure.
That's what i thought. A buddy I ride with did this, and I'll be doing it to my sled this fall...... i hear it is much simpler and works better
 

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Keep up the good work Grr!

I'm deployed as we speak and its threads like this that make my day. I can't wait to get home in a few months and tear my sleds apart for a little preventative. I don't have quite the ambition you do so keep us updated as usual, that 1000 build was sweet!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I love the "nothing is impossible" attitude over in your garage. Can't wait to see the narrowness in real form. Your almost on your way to a single wide ski out front! Hmmm.....I wonder what that would be like....?
 
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