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That is one nasty looking pipe, Daag. I know money is not free, but maybe if the 'new' engine runs well, then make the $100 investment. If you don't travel far, then you can keep an eye on the present pipe and keep running it, but it would be a shame to make a longer trip and have the leak occur and lose the 'new' engine.
 

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Vintage two stroke Lawnboy push mower


View attachment 2001321

I had the chance to get a 40+ year old Lawnboy push mower running. It was bought in the mid seventies and hadn't run in ~30 years or so, and sitting outside for who knows how long. My first thought was no Ethanol back then, so how hard can it be? It was stored under a pine tree with no direct sunlight, so was thinking maybe even the primer will still work and it did.

First thing was to make sure it wasn't seized. The crank still worked, so I cleaned all of pine needles with a blow gun (compressed air). I removed the air filter and cleaned all the crap with the blow gun and gas in my nifty hair dye bottle which are my two favorite tools working in tandem. Once the intake side was relatively clean for a first start without the air filter, I used my hair die squirt bottle with 45:1 premix to get the engine running which it did within a couple cranks. When it quit after a few seconds, I gave a little more to start and drip fed the carb to keep the engine running for a minute or so. I still find it ridiculously easy to feed an engine gasoline while manually adjusting the air/fuel ratio by how much I squeeze the bottle.

For running the engine without an air filter, as long as it is not a windy day then I not squeamish about doing this. I have done more than my share of endless pulls which put a ridiculous amount of strain on my back that a little dust going into intake for a short period no longer bothers me.

Now that I know it does run, then I can put the time&effort to clean the deck, plastics and carburetor. The gas line was split and I had clear gasoline hose to replace it with. The hose for the primer was stiff, but it was still good enough. The carburetor bowl had junk/black premix gas, but nothing worrisome. I removed the float and needle was nice with no gunk and only needed light cleaning. I remove the screen filter from over the main jet then unscrewed the jet to blow brake cleaner through all of the passages and the MJ. I used my 7X magnifying glass to look through the MJ and it looked good to me. The primer line got cleaned-up the same way by backflushing through the carb passage and it came out clean. Keep in mind there was never any Ethanol in that mower, so this was straightforward cleaning.

Next I cleaned the gas tank having green slime. I kept a sample to show the owner, but didn't bother to take a picture. Surprisingly the gas cap was still venting. The thing is these caps have a somewhat open vent and do not hold the lighter ends of the gasoline, so the gas does not remain good for long. Keep the mower out of the sunlight and in a barn/shed that doesn't see temp swings, then the gas will be somewhat ok to run the next week, but it will have lost a lot of its potential. Keep it under a plastic car shelter and it probably won't start within less than a couple of week if not days.

Once the gas tank was cleaned, I tackled the female spade connectors from the On/Off switch to the ignition coil. I dipped both connectors into a glass jar that I filled with vinegar and table salt, then neutralized them with water and baking soda, blew dry them with the blow gun and applied dielectric grease.

Put it all back together, tested the primer which showed to work from the flow in the gas line intake that I had replaced with a clean hose. I pumped it several times to see if it was working, but too much gas is rarely an issue from my experience. I proved it enough times with small engines and sleds. With a carb or SDI, I have have shown how not enough gas to start can cause a spark plug to wet foul. Then I lightly clean the plug and give it lots of gas for a cold start. By the way, brake/carb cleaner with a tooth brush is enough to clean a relatively clean but otherwise wet fouled spark plug.

It started on the first pull and off I went to mow a couple slices with 40+ year old rusted blades. I found the engine was not turning fast enough, so I wondered about this plastic lever above that I had noted was connected to the governor with a light spring. I was surprised that it raised the engine rpm significantly.

A Lawnboy is not a mower that I am not familiar with other than having seen it being used since the mid 70s and kept seeing them being used for at least two decades until the four strokes took over. I still remember the mowing crew on the McGill University campus using them. This one Lawnboy had no handle, but rather ropes to guide it along the steepest incline and the guy was walking back and forth from the top. The first one I saw was in 74 when when my neighbour Ken had setup his father's self propelled Lawnboy with a couple of wooded sticks to move himself forward and backwards while crouched over the deck. It would become the earliest engineering marvel that I did see.

This was more for a challenge and for my own curiosity to see if I could get a push mower running after sitting a few decades. I would not have cared if it was a four stroke, but this was a vintage two stroke Lawnboy which to me is not too far from working on a vintage two stroke saw or sled.
As for this lawnmower project. glad it all worked out. I noticed this sentence: "I still find it ridiculously easy to feed an engine gasoline while manually adjusting the air/fuel ratio by how much I squeeze the bottle." It made me think of this:

The Wright Brothers first engine, which flew the first powered flights in NC, was fed gas by having a flat pan on top of the engine, and in front of the air intake. Then a tube from the fuel tank dripped fuel onto the pan which then evaporated from the heated pan and was pulled into the engine! We think of carburetors as old stuff now, but compared to the Wright Borthers setup, a carb is whizbang. leading-edge technology LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #103 ·
As for this lawnmower project. glad it all worked out. I noticed this sentence: "I still find it ridiculously easy to feed an engine gasoline while manually adjusting the air/fuel ratio by how much I squeeze the bottle." It made me think of this:

The Wright Brothers first engine, which flew the first powered flights in NC, was fed gas by having a flat pan on top of the engine, and in front of the air intake. Then a tube from the fuel tank dripped fuel onto the pan which then evaporated from the heated pan and was pulled into the engine! We think of carburetors as old stuff now, but compared to the Wright Borthers setup, a carb is whizbang. leading-edge technology LOL.
Maybe I got inspired when I walked the path up Kill Devil Hill lol

I was amazed with how the gentlemen on Project Farm was able to regulate the flow of gas vapors with a common ball valve!

 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
That is one nasty looking pipe, Daag. I know money is not free, but maybe if the 'new' engine runs well, then make the $100 investment. If you don't travel far, then you can keep an eye on the present pipe and keep running it, but it would be a shame to make a longer trip and have the leak occur and lose the 'new' engine.
I think you will be glad to know that before reading your reply I spoke to my dad to bounce the idea and came to the same conclusion as you did. I will be picking-up the part and choosing a warmer evening in the next week or two to make the swap. I imagine that I owe it to the 'new' engine that was given a second life lol
 

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I think you will be glad to know that before reading your reply I spoke to my dad to bounce the idea and came to the same conclusion as you did. I will be picking-up the part and choosing a warmer evening in the next week or two to make the swap. I imagine that I owe it to the 'new' engine that was given a second life lol
Good deal, Daag. It is similar to new batteries I just put in my truck.... I spent an extra $100 to have the best offered. They ought to last longer, and may make a difference in a cold start on a -20F morning 5 years from now.... I have done plenty of fixes and repairs to parts like your rusty pipe in the past, and too often, the repairs don't hold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
How many times do you want to pull start a snowblower???

Sometime in March of last year (2022) when the gas prices skyrocketed I made the mistake of filling my snowblower with 87 E10 which has roughly 7% Ethanol in the winter and 5% in the summer. I never did start the snowblower again for the season and left it in the tank with the though of one day emptying it to fix my mistake. That day came 8 months later today lol I remember filling-up the gas tank and all I could get out of emptying it was 1/4 tank of so. I even went in the tank with my turkey and didn't get much more. So I filled it up with our 91 E10 which has no Ethanol.

I got the snowblower last season and the seller had it started for me, so getting it started wasn't even an issue until it got cold and it would not start. Since it was fitted with an ES running off a common 120 Vdc plug I had the starter turn the engine over until it finally did start. I was also fitted with a primer bulb, so I learned the secret recipe to get it started within one to thee pulls. Sounds familiar???

Last year I didn't even want to mess with the carburetor let alone even finding it lol Why? This one like probably most are, was hidden behind a cowl and I wasn't going to attempt taking any of them apart if I didn't have to. Snowblowers vibrate more than a washing machine and most who have removed any bolts that hold these cowls know from experience that they tend back out lol Obviously this was well within my means to prevent from happening, but I had no intention to mess with something that was working and create myself more work!

Fast forward to today and I was thinking maybe it was time to find the carburetor lol So I put my nifty garden knee pads and found it directly behind the choke lever and near the throttle and key which quit working last season. With no access to feed the carb with my nifty hair die premix bottle, I literally scratch my head and wonder what if I could fit a length of primer hose to the spout of hair die bottle to reach the carburetor throat?

Started on the first pull!

It worked like a charm! One pull and it started lol Ok it did quit after two to three seconds, but that was expected. Push more premix in and it started again on the first pull, and then a third time. For this post I swayed and gave it two more pulls without feeding premix and zero sign of life. After one more shot of premix it started again on the first pull and ran on its own gas!

Primer of Hair Die bottle???

Which method do you believe I will be using this winter, the primer or the hair die bottle? Obviously the primer method first, just like I did last season. Now here is where it gets a little funny/weird. I did some experimenting last season with the use of the primer and could not get the engine to start as easily as I normally do with the hair die bottle which I have yet to sort it out. Anyone who remembers using a primer on a sled remembers that it takes two or three pumps, and it won't start with too many pumps. Why? I don't know.

Hopefully the experience provides a good enough reason to make the embarrassing attempt to ask your wife for a hair die bottle or perhaps you do die your hair and have your own lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #107 ·
Boost Charge for the battery

@ Nm9stheham, I just removed the dumb charger set to 2A off of my riding lawn tractor after about two hours and finding the charging voltage had reached 16.12 Vdc! This is a little too high for my liking, but a non issue for the amount of time on the charger and being 0C. A light boost charge is all that is needed for your new truck batteries. I mention it because I am confident that you have done this in the past without necessarily realizing it. In my opinion it is giving those batteries a little love and they will reward you on the coldest days that you start the truck thinking it would probably be best to wait until it got warmer lol

The amount of boost charge needed is much like the use of a primer. Too little or too much and it will won't work. The SLA battery that I got last spring in 2022 for my riding mower remains good enough to reach a good charge after two months of not being used and only a short 2 hours of being charge on 2A!

If I hadn't been messing with the snowblower today, I would have the enormous 54" mower removed to use it as a tractor to kart wood until my shed gets snowed in. Once it is stored for the winter I will remove the battery and store it in the garage for its monthly boost charge which will be maybe a hour for this battery. The other two are sitting at 12.68 for the boat battery, and 12.75 for the car battery since their last charge which is good for old batteries. My next step is to find the ghost load on the Subaru. I have already done preliminary work with a amp meter in series with the battery and I found an additional load beyond the fuses.
 

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How many times do you want to pull start a snowblower???

Sometime in March of last year (2022) when the gas prices skyrocketed I made the mistake of filling my snowblower with 87 E10 which has roughly 7% Ethanol in the winter and 5% in the summer. I never did start the snowblower again for the season and left it in the tank with the though of one day emptying it to fix my mistake. That day came 8 months later today lol I remember filling-up the gas tank and all I could get out of emptying it was 1/4 tank of so. I even went in the tank with my turkey and didn't get much more. So I filled it up with our 91 E10 which has no Ethanol.

I got the snowblower last season and the seller had it started for me, so getting it started wasn't even an issue until it got cold and it would not start. Since it was fitted with an ES running off a common 120 Vdc plug I had the starter turn the engine over until it finally did start. I was also fitted with a primer bulb, so I learned the secret recipe to get it started within one to thee pulls. Sounds familiar???

Last year I didn't even want to mess with the carburetor let alone even finding it lol Why? This one like probably most are, was hidden behind a cowl and I wasn't going to attempt taking any of them apart if I didn't have to. Snowblowers vibrate more than a washing machine and most who have removed any bolts that hold these cowls know from experience that they tend back out lol Obviously this was well within my means to prevent from happening, but I had no intention to mess with something that was working and create myself more work!

Fast forward to today and I was thinking maybe it was time to find the carburetor lol So I put my nifty garden knee pads and found it directly behind the choke lever and near the throttle and key which quit working last season. With no access to feed the carb with my nifty hair die premix bottle, I literally scratch my head and wonder what if I could fit a length of primer hose to the spout of hair die bottle to reach the carburetor throat?

Started on the first pull!

It worked like a charm! One pull and it started lol Ok it did quit after two to three seconds, but that was expected. Push more premix in and it started again on the first pull, and then a third time. For this post I swayed and gave it two more pulls without feeding premix and zero sign of life. After one more shot of premix it started again on the first pull and ran on its own gas!

Primer of Hair Die bottle???

Which method do you believe I will be using this winter, the primer or the hair die bottle? Obviously the primer method first, just like I did last season. Now here is where it gets a little funny/weird. I did some experimenting last season with the use of the primer and could not get the engine to start as easily as I normally do with the hair die bottle which I have yet to sort it out. Anyone who remembers using a primer on a sled remembers that it takes two or three pumps, and it won't start with too many pumps. Why? I don't know.

Hopefully the experience provides a good enough reason to make the embarrassing attempt to ask your wife for a hair die bottle or perhaps you do die your hair and have your own lol
Push the primer ball until there is gas dripping from the carb and pick up on the handle so it runs into the engine. I always turn the gas off and let it run itself dry when I’m done using once March comes. You never know when the last storm is going to be.


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The boy and I did and oil change and a fuel filter change on his tractor this afternoon. The fuel filter looked like it was fine but it’s not worth messing with it at night when you should be working. The air filter was like new still. The weather forecast looks like some decent snow coming so he’ll have to put the tire chains on and bring it north 20 miles for the winter for snow removal.




We have been gearing up for winter the last couple of Sunday’s..


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I see the salt spreader being loaded into the truck. That is getting into some serious work for the winter season (y)
We put the rear tire chains on this afternoon. I missed out on that last year due to COVID. One of the founding members of the snowmobile club came by and helped the boy with it then. It’s all loaded and heading to Sugarloaf USA for the winter tomorrow to do snow blowing for some condos. It will come back for an oil change and to push snow back here if needed in February. That sander is a hassle for me because part of his contract is sanding as needed. One driveway needs it almost every time. I didn’t do any of the others but one all last winter and it was a weird icy snow year. At least our yard is done for “free” now if it needs it or not.


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How far do you need to travel with chains? I thought those were used in extreme cases and traveling at low speeds. I once made a set for my MX 125 dirt bike lol
He has about a 2 mile route he is doing. Its big hills as it s around a ski resort.It’s going to snow tomorrow for the first real snow fall of the year and who knows when it stops. The contract is October 15th thru may 15th. Last year it was over long before mech ended.


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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
He has about a 2 mile route he is doing. Its big hills as it s around a ski resort. It’s going to snow tomorrow for the first real snow fall of the year and who knows when it stops. The contract is October 15th thru may 15th. Last year it was over long before mech ended.


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2 miles is good. I have no doubt the truck can use chains for the tough hills to climb! If you don't mind me asking, was last season a challenge without chains? I don't mean to pry, and perhaps he didn't have that contract.

By the way I have been to ski once at Sugarloaf and it was impressively large!
 

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2 miles is good. I have no doubt the truck can use chains for the tough hills to climb! If you don't mind me asking, was last season a challenge without chains? I don't mean to pry, and perhaps he didn't have that contract.

By the way I have been to ski once at Sugarloaf and it was impressively large!
He had chains last season. All the tractors up there run them. The industrial tires are like skates without them. There is a lot going on at sugarloaf now. Lots of new condos and houses being built. There appears to be a waiting list for house lots. Even the old clapped out tiny condos are selling for 6
$600,000.


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Discussion Starter · #119 ·
Snowblower Woes

While loading wood I had someone stop by seeing how everything was doing. We got talking about the expected snowfall and I mentioned my snowblower had been on the fritz which has been worrying me because I could get it going with a push of the primer, but it would only last a second or so. I was pleasantly surprised that he mentioned the carb was probably clogging-up and it would be a simple fix. I answered that I may need to dig into it, but I was looking forward to it in case of being left with a broken float bowl seal which he responded when in need it can always be made out of whatever you got.

Of those of you who have played with snowblowers, it can either turn out fantastic, or a broken gasket during disassembly will turn it into a noblower dead weight.


With our last snowfall I needed to turn the choke half-way to get it going well enough. It was obviously indicative of a lack of gas. One pump of the primer and it was going again. By then I had done majority of the driveway, so I like any reasonable person I parked it while wishing the problem to go away on its own lol Let's be frank about this, these machines vibrate so freaking much, the thought of unbolting any cowling to reach the carburetor will hold the near certainty to loose one or more bolts the next time blowing snow and those bolts be lost forever lol

So I am politely nodding to the gentlemen that I would need to take apart the carburetor and devise a makeshift gasket if needed. Between you and me, I am thinking of every possible way that I can think of to avoid touching that carburetor. I had been thinking about this for the past week or so, and by the time the snow was beginning to fall hard around 9pm, I decided it was time to fall back on my last can of Seafoam. Let me cut this part short, I have no way of knowing if it helped, but this is not about Seafoam or any other kind of cleaner, but rather about the approach.

What I have noticed in the last few times of using the snowblower is that it seems to work fine in the beginning, then the power drops and I am left to use the primer bulb to get it going well enough to bring it back under the shelter under its own power. Working well on the primer is a dead giveaway for a lack of gas, but anyone having operated snowblower knows that they often run out of gas frequently. So many times that what happens, and then gas tank is filled and back to snow-blowing. What I have noticed with mine is that it takes a minute or two for the air to pass the lines before it regains its power, similar to my saws.

The last time I operated the snowblower it was full and not gaining full power until I used the half choke. This was beginning to worry me with the carburetor. The thing is it had operating often enough with good 91 gas that I had no reason to be concerned with blockage. That problem is not an absolute. It happens for a reason and once you learn how to avoid it, then it becomes a problem of the past. Yet I though to first see how it would do for a minute which it was fine, then I poured a 1/4 can or less of Seafoam and went with it. This lasted 20 min or so before the engine bogged down again and it would recoup with a shot of the primer. Remember when I said that running out of gas in these machines was frequent? Yup, that's what happened lol

So I refilling with fresh gas while I have this reoccurring though ever since the day I posted having started the snowblower with my infamous premix bottle and using a tube extension to reach the carb. If you remember it was one pull and vroom. The last few times I have been using the primer bulb which takes a few push of the primer, two pulls and nothing, and another few push of the primer and the second pull it starts. And yes it is always a fist pull start with an unmeasured amount of premix into the carb. Anyways, when I posted that, I also realized the snowblower had no air filter!

Does that remind you of anything, like an Olympic or many old sleds??? What is your premix ratio recommendation for an Olympic or any such old unfiltered carb sled? For most this is around 40:1. This is the ubiquitous ratio. There is however a less known but frequently used 32:1 ratio. 32 is only to make it easier to count, so it not ever close to a magic number. I am afraid there is no big secret to it other than more oil to the unfiltered air. And let's kid ourselves, snowmobiles are not great at filtering snow dust. If have seem me note on DooTalk that I avoid following other sleds closely, it is for the obvious reason.

Now that you are up to speed with what I thinking for a power loss, and I really do not want to removing any the cowling, I assume you can related to why I added Seafoam and 2S oil to the gas tank. I began blowing snow around 10:15pm and thought to post the results if I could make it 45 min without loosing power. I did at one point, but it was running out of gas lol If you are thinking at this point that you are not buying into these two things, do not worry as you are not alone. There is sill over a month ahead to show if it will work out or not. Tonight is only one moment in time.

Let's take it a step further. What are the three main reasons for a loss of power that can be shown through a primer bulb or a choke/enrichment jetting circuit on a sled?

1. Lack of gas to the carbs (gas pump);
2. Lack of gas through the jetting (blocked jets);
3. Air bubbles forming in the float bowls and in between the jetting circuits;
4. Heat issues that contribute icing in the carb throats with the heaters on or off.

I keep the carb heaters on and rarely have issues with any of those things, but I always keep them in mind to diagnosing funny problems in small engines taking gas.

There is one other thing that I keep in mind with loss of performance, and this is with loss of compression when the engine gets too hot! This is something that I have noticed in taking compression measurements. For example a drop from 175 to 162 psi is a significant drop that I take note of when the engine has ran ultra lean. In writing this paragraph I am thinking that I should take a comparison measurement of the compression of this snowblower.

At this point I am only showing all the things that are going through my mind from my own experience. In this particular case, I wanted to show the various reasons that I was not willing to take the carburetor apart. Please accept my way to write it this way, I really, really did not want to remove the cowling or carburetor apart if I did not have to, so it pushed me to think what were the different possibilities.

By the way, have you ever noticed that on DooTalk I never immediately suggest taking a carb apart for cleaning, or more precisely I rarely suggest it? First and foremost, I rarely if ever need to since there is always someone else that does. I still clean carbs and I have shown it on this thread, but those are extraordinary cases. Instead, I have been focusing on the storage issues which I have leaned for the most part on DooTalk which I have applied over the years.

I am enjoying this post because I have provided every segment of reasoning and believe to have left nothing out. So far I am thinking that the engine of my snowblower was overheating and causing trouble with both the carburetor and engine compression. It will be difficult for me to prove it, but if the remainder of the season shows uneventful with only one shot of Seafoam and continual use of 2S oil, then I think the latest recipe will have proven to work beyond my own doubt. The snowblower is already running for better over a 45 min period than it has this year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
Snowblower Woes - Part 2

I screwed-up, literally lol Let me cut to the chase with the Seafoam having done nothing! A few days ago I found an adjustment screw at the bottom of the carb..... That in itself says it all, so I am calling Oooops??? lol

The story goes like this. The belt for the wheel drive came off, so I was forced to take the bottom and top shrouds off to get it back on the pulleys. To get the bottom one off I had to flip the snowblower forward 90° which allowed me to get a better view of the carb. When I saw the screw at the bottom/center of the bowl, I thought that don't make sense??? I got the drive belt back on, started the snowblower and began adjusting that screw. I am still unsure of what it does, but in adjusting it several times over 45 min of blowing snow I was able to get it running good each time it was sputtering or bogging.

Just like snowmobiles, sputtering is not enough gas, and bogging is too much gas. At least that is how I define it. They are both misfires, but they sound different and they look different. Too much gas and spews black smoke. Too little gas and it sputters with little to no smoke.

I still do not understand how there can be an adjustment at the bottom of the bowl without causing a gas leak.... As I explained in the past reply, I have no intention in taking the carb apart unless I have to. If anyone has any insights on this, please share.
 
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