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FAQ man
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There is not much clearance between the rear of the suspension and the track clips as the track turns around the rear wheels. This is noisy and after only about 2 miles I can see the rear of the hyfax being worn into a new shape by the track clips. The rear of the hyfax is being chamfered, eh. This is compounded by the fact that this hyfax is new with no miles.

This is with the suspension tightened to proper riding specs.
 

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FAQ man
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Ok, this is what you can do now when you mash the go trigger. Could never do this before. This is with all suspension springs fully softened, I do have a heavier rear spring. Also the rear coupler block is in the "fat side down" position.

Steering is about half of the effort as before. Will see how it is to ride on the trails. Of course rode also with coupler blocks rotated with "fat side back". This may be the happy medium for trail riding, a little more ski pressure, and less weight transfer.

If anyone wants more pics of the front mount relocation process let me know, I have pics of the whole ball of wax.

Jerry C.
 

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Sweet - thanks for taking the time to be another "test pilot" for this topic. Obviously it can be concluded that the weight transfer is improved and steering effort reduced. Now for the bonus questions - How does it affect handling on the trails and how does it affect top end speed???

Wish we had some snow so I could do some testing on my own


Anxiously waiting some results!!!!
 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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darn!!!
Talk about weight transfer! Looks like a good mod so far....but I too would like to hear the REAL results after riding on the trails before I try this on my sled. Thanks for the pics and info!


SnoProG,
He changed the mounting position of the front of the skid. It drops it lower and to the rear.
 

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I have 1200 miles on mine since relocating. No problems. As for the rear hyfax square edge, I've been cutting the back edge to 60 degrees for years. I highly recommend to do this on your sleds that have reverse, it's much kinder to your track clips.
 

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I did this Mod and ran my sled 400 miles last weekend, steering effort in much easier but there is still plenty of bite in the front end to rail around the corners.

Belive it or not I picked up about 7-8 MPH on the speedo.
Week before I did this all I could get on the speedo was 94 on 1/2 mile run temps in the mid 20's.F
After relocating the arm I get consitant 101-103 on speedo, 1/2 mile run with temps around 40F, hope to do a few runs in colder temps, should be even better
 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Bodacious said:
I have 1200 miles on mine since relocating. No problems. As for the rear hyfax square edge, I've been cutting the back edge to 60 degrees for years. I highly recommend to do this on your sleds that have reverse, it's much kinder to your track clips.

[snapback]308404[/snapback]​
Well, that sounds pretty promising!!
 

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FAQ man
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Bodacious said:
I have 1200 miles on mine since relocating. No problems. As for the rear hyfax square edge, I've been cutting the back edge to 60 degrees for years. I highly recommend to do this on your sleds that have reverse, it's much kinder to your track clips.

[snapback]308404[/snapback]​
I'll have to do that to mine, I think.
 

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sleddude5 said:
This is noisy .............. rear of the hyfax is being chamfered, eh. .
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When I change hyfax, I cut the rear of the hyfax at an angle. This will keep the track clips from "slapping" when departing the hyfax. Sounds like your clips are doing this hyfax mod on their own. Perhps the noise will reduce as well, over time
 

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can either of you (bodacious or REVman) let us know what it does to the ride between the two .you have 1600 miles on it with the armed dropped. i have my suspension out to put new slides on and am wondering if i should remount it , but i don`t want to spend all next week in the UP with crappy riding and handling sled. appreciate any advice
 

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I think the ride is just as smooth over the stutter bumps as it was before. Over all handling seems to be improved to the the fact your not fighting to turn the bars. The bumps have become at more fun, now instead of rolling over them you can " pop" the sled up and catch a little air
, much like you can with a 121" sled.

It is hard to explain. the sled just feels differant, in a good way tho, does not feel so planted.
It's tuff me me so say you will like it or not because everyone has there own idea of how a sled should feel. If it where me I would go for it if you don't like it, it should only take 5 minutes to put it back. Just bring a 16mm and 17mm wrenches along with ya. You do not have to remove the skid to put it back to stock, tip the sled on it's side, unbolt the front arm bolt back in stock holes and re adjust the track............. easy as pie

If you Doo change it let us know what you think when you get back. Have a great trip


Bodacious,
Got any input ?
 

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JUst this, I've had a very positive result with the changes, I also added a stiffer center spring, which makes the sled feel much better to me. I will not change back to the OEM set-up. All I can say try it you may love it, I sure some will find fault in it. If you move it and don't like it, 20 minutes and you can have your "DEAD FLAT ON THE SKIS RENEGADE" back to the original set-up. DOO it or don't, it's your choice, I just don't know what else to say.
 

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Bodacious said:
JUst this, I've had a very positive result with the changes, I also added a stiffer center spring, which makes the sled feel much better to me. I will not change back to the OEM set-up. All I can say try it you may love it, I sure some will find fault in it. If you move it and don't like it, 20 minutes and you can have your "DEAD FLAT ON THE SKIS RENEGADE" back to the original set-up. DOO it or don't, it's your choice, I just don't know what else to say.

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Do you know the part number for the stiffer spring? I wonder if your original spring is stiffer then mine since I have a NON-X. Is the original spring a dual or single rate? Want to sell your original spring?

RK
 

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newf001 said:
Didn't you have to drill a new hole for the bolt? Also, I was wondering how changing the skid in relation to the tunnel effect powder riding? better or worse?

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Yes, you have to drill the new hole but the reinforcement bracket on the inside already has the hole. There is a picture of this in another thread somewhere. By theory lowering the front of the skid increased the attack angle of the track and therefore would be worse for deep snow. This is the single reason I have not done this yet.. On the otherhand making this adjustment will give your sled more weight transfer which should improve the feel of the sled in deep snow.
 
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