600 or 800etec

I highly recommend on any 2012 model because of the cr@ppy grommet that was in the fuel tank. Changed two myself 600 rene and 800 x 154 and both of them, black gukk come out of the filter.

 

Awesome, thanks Joe!

Looking at the service manual, looks to be located above the oil tank *** EDIT: Upon closer inspection, that's spelled right out in the picture above. My bad!) And from what I'm reading one side is on a quick-connect, and the High pressure Fuel Hose Clamp is used on the other side, with the factory one being snipped to allow for replacement? I'm away from home for the next week so I can't lay my hands on it until then. Already have lots of plans for her when I get home, new powder coating and some T-Motion & XM spindles to name a few!

Now that that's rolling, any one else have some preseason stuff they do on these other than the regular checks?

 

Was emailing Joe about clutching on my 2012 154 and he strongly recommended checking mine. Cut old one apart n I'm glad I changed it! 3395 at napa btw. Wix is 33095 I think

 

Grease the skid and ski spindle bolts.

Grab the rear bumper and drag the sled around the garage for 10 minutes so you can get a feel for your pre season conditioning

 

Front oil lite bushings

 

Front oil lite bushings

Check! Have these sitting on the bench waiting to haul the A-Arms off for paint. Just wish I didn't have to haul that belly pan off again!

 

Shouldn't need to remove the belly pan. Skid plate might be what you mean? For removing the lower A-arms, I suggest having a grinder ready to modify a wrench to fit. If you're going to have the clutch off, I always put a dial indicator on the crank to measure run out so I can sleep better at night. Spark plugs are worth changing if you're over 1000 miles on a set (some will argue this but my gaps always open up in that mileage). Clean the clutches thoroughly, wash the drive belt in hot soapy water. Change chaincase oil, and adjust chain tension. Couple drops of cable lube down the throttle cable. How are the hyfax? If worn, I'd pull the skid & clean out the old grease of the cross shafts, then regrease with quality water resistant grease, replace hyfax, and put it back in.

Man, I have a lot to do myself! Have fun.

 

Yep, skid plate is what I was getting at - still don't want to take it off and re-rivet the shagger back in haha. Wrench is already ground down so all good there haha. Skid is coming out for a T-Motion install, powder wedges and paint, so a full work over will be easy there.

On the fence for a Beltdrive install but I can't see me throwing the dollars at it this year.

Thanks fr the tips!

 

Yep, skid plate is what I was getting at - still don't want to take it off and re-rivet the shagger back in haha. Wrench is already ground down so all good there haha. Skid is coming out for a T-Motion install, powder wedges and paint, so a full work over will be easy there.

On the fence for a Beltdrive install but I can't see me throwing the dollars at it this year.

Thanks fr the tips!

Rivnuts and Val's (Mainway Solutions) threaded inserts to plastic are the way to go for skid plate installs. No more drilling rivets any time you need to get under them!

Look at the bottom of this page: http://mainwaysolutions.ca/mw-products.htm

Val is great to work with if you need a non-standard solution as well - highly recommended if you are tired of drilling out rivets!

dave

 

Another cross reference number for the fuel filter is Walbro 125-199

 

Wish I had to look Mainway solutions up before now. Ordered the Astro Pneumatics Rivet Nut gun last night, Mainway's setup looks easier. Ahh well, rivnuts should be good one they're installed.