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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well i hit something with the frontend and its bent, right side behind the muffler and the a-arm is pushed back..Has anyone changed this themsevles how hard is to actaully remove those rivets? It looks like they bolt the new one back in place? will it be as strong after it fixed?...thanks for any info
 

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Do a search on the front crossmember there is alot of posts on fixing it, and reinforcing it. If there is a bend behind the muffler you may need a new frame/tunnel. I bent mine under the clutch and had to replace the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
redrider300 said:
Do a search on the front crossmember there is alot of posts on fixing it, and reinforcing it. If there is a bend behind the muffler you may need a new frame/tunnel. I bent mine under the clutch and had to replace the frame.
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I have done a search I see alot of people with the same problem, but no one actaully has said they replaced it themsevles and how hard it was? Thanks
 

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I replaced the nun on my sled myself. Some of those rivets you need to grind out, it takes some time but after a while you get the hang of it. I didnt take the engine out but if you need to straighten your frame you have to. I used tensilock bolts instead of rivets. Took me a couple of evenings/nights to complete. There is a service bulletin 2004-10 that describes the whole deal....

I can e-mail it to you .

//Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nobody has fixed this, themself?
 

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TomIvar said:
I replaced the nun on my sled myself. Some of those rivets you need to grind out, it takes some time but after a while you get the hang of it. I didnt take the engine out but if you need to straighten your frame you have to. I used tensilock bolts instead of rivets. Took me a couple of evenings/nights to complete. There is a service bulletin 2004-10 that describes the whole deal....

I can e-mail it to you .

//Tom
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I replaced mine on my 440 mxzx by myself i just swaped the nun and added the o4 renforcement parts took 4 hours start to finish
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
440mxzx555 said:
TomIvar said:
I replaced the nun on my sled myself. Some of those rivets you need to grind out, it takes some time but after a while you get the hang of it. I didnt take the engine out but if you need to straighten your frame you have to. I used tensilock bolts instead of rivets. Took me a couple of evenings/nights to complete. There is a service bulletin 2004-10 that describes the whole deal....

I can e-mail it to you .

//Tom
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I replaced mine on my 440 mxzx by myself i just swaped the nun and added the o4 renforcement parts took 4 hours start to finish
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so does the new one bolt on or rivet?
 

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chevy said:
440mxzx555 said:
TomIvar said:
I replaced the nun on my sled myself. Some of those rivets you need to grind out, it takes some time but after a while you get the hang of it. I didnt take the engine out but if you need to straighten your frame you have to. I used tensilock bolts instead of rivets. Took me a couple of evenings/nights to complete. There is a service bulletin 2004-10 that describes the whole deal....

I can e-mail it to you .

//Tom
[snapback]282828[/snapback]​
I replaced mine on my 440 mxzx by myself i just swaped the nun and added the o4 renforcement parts took 4 hours start to finish
[snapback]283334[/snapback]​
so does the new one bolt on or rivet?
The nun on the 440 is bolted to the bulkhead from the factory the one's on the trail model is rivited on you need to grind them off or drill them
 

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chevy said:
Nobody has fixed this, themself?
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Alot of people have fixed this themselves. It is pretty easy actually. The hardest part is getting the rivets out. I would reccomend that you attach the new lower crossmember to the bulkhead using the bolts, washers, and nuts reccomended in the service bulletin.

You could just order the 440x crossmember and the reinforcements and install them on your sled. This will help alot with front end durability.

while you are at it, remove the crap a-arm bushings and replace them with the 440x bushings and shafts to get rid of the slop in the front suspension.

When taking the a-arms off, just remove the steering arms from the linkage rack and then unbolt the a-arms from the bulkhead. This will make the job way easier.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Come on 125 people online and no one has replaced this yet?
 

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Are you blind!!! Read the posts, several people have done this themselves......
 

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You have another option depending on the severity of the flying nun damage. If the damage is not bad and the only real evidence is the distance between the shock and the a-arm, you should consider a come along and a 4x4.

Racers do it all the time and you can't tell it was ever bent either by riding or looking at it. Even if you eventually replace the cross member, you can get through the season and do it in the spring.

Here's how to do it. Simply hook a come along to the a-arm that is out of position and hook the other end to a fixed metal post. Most garages have them holding the roof up. Don't worry the process puts very little force on the post. Then, take a 4x4 (about 4 feet long works good, but any length will work) and wedge it between the aluminum steering spindle and the metal post. Tighten the come along to remove the slack. Then verify the ends of 4x4 are positioned squarely on the steering spindle and the metal post (with the length of the 4x4 resting on the floor). Next, tigten the come along until the arm is straight.

In 10 minutes you could be back on the trail. Don't forget to realign the front end when you are finished.
 

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Four days ago I hit something under the snow with the front left ski. The impact sheared the rear bolt on the lower a-arm and bent the a-arm bracket beyond repair. The flying nun got at least one kink in it as well at the front of the left rubber bott. I replaced the bolt and bracket (parts listed in SB 2004-10) and used a 4x4 to coax the a-arms back closer to where they're supposed to be. My springs are almost back in the center of the upper a-arms now and after I quick ski alignment, I'm good until the snow melts or, heaven forbid, I hit something else. I will replace the nun in the off-season.

A 4x4 or 2x4 wedged in the appropriate places can get you going again but ultimately, the nun has to be replaced.

The REV is a great sled but the front-end is made from tin-foil IMO.
 

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BTW....

If anyone needs the UPPER crossmember because their has been bent...I have a spare one. Will sell really cheap if anyone is in a pinch.

PM me if you are in a jam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Does anybody know who might have one in stock in michigan? Also I have two different part numbers #518 323 766 from dootalk and518 324 694 from the dealer any help on difference...thanks
 
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