Wow. New to the sport is my first, last and only sled. A 1999 MXZ 679HO. Nowhere close to what you’re doing but mine as very corroded when I picked her up. All purple paint in the head came off with a gently touch of a screw driver. Vacuumed out lots of rust and sludge. Getting better each week.
FOUND! Reunited with my '93 MXZ after 30 years
If I was able to find the sled, the plan was always to make this a restoration project, assuming that after 30 years the sled would likely need some level of work to return it to its former glory. When I first talked to the current owner - who lives in west central Minnesota - and started asking questions, I learned that the sled has been sitting out in the "back 40" for nearly two years. That generate lots of bad visions!
Apparently, the owner's kids were the main riders of the sled during the 20 years that he has owned it. As the story goes, one day two winters ago they were out riding it and ran out of gas. They walked back to their house, and the sled sat right where it stopped. They did prop up the track to get it off the ground, and it was under a small tree. That's where it has been since. Summer and winter - uncovered.
I showed up at the owner's place on July 1st, and we proceeded to take the walk through a couple hundred yards of woods and then another hundred yards of 4-foot-tall grass to get to where the sled was sitting. Finally - I saw it. I knew it would be rough, and it was! Significant front-end damage, sun-baked hood, trashed seat - it was a sad picture. To think that my prized old sled had been treated so poorly was a bummer for sure. I checked the VIN and a couple other details that only I would know about to confirm that this was in fact my original sled. It was.
I told the owner that this sled was really bordering on a salvage deal, but since it was my original sled, and because I worked so hard to find it, I'd still be interested in buying it and bringing it home for further evaluation. I made an offer, he took it, and we spent three hours getting it out of the woods. Quite an operation.
With the sled now in my shop, I'm going to blow it apart (what's left of it!) and really evaluate just what I've got and whether or not it would be advisable to even start a resto project. I've already restored three of these previously, but the starting points on those projects were far beyond what this one is. It would be a challenge for sure - it will take some serious metal fab along with significant resto work on every component. Also, lots of $$$$. So, the bottom-line question is this: how bad do I want my original sled to live on? I can't answer that question just yet. Stay tuned . . . .
Ken
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
As shown in my previous post, I made the decision to separate the bulkhead from the tunnel and remove the two heat exchanger units. This was the only way to properly address all the required metal fab work that needed to be done. In the end, all sub-components were removed from both the bulkhead and tunnel as well. That includes every single bracket, brace, etc. that could be removed by drilling out rivets. All of these individual sub-components were then restored along with the bulkhead and tunnel.
Once metal fab restoration work was complete on all parts, they were sent out for media blast and powder coat. Just picked up everything late this past week, and at the same time dropped off all of the front and rear suspension components which are next on the list for blast and powder coat. Pics show the various chassis components as I received them from the powder coat shop.
Now the chassis re-build process starts. The restored chassis will actually be a bolt-together assembly instead of being riveted. This includes the bulkhead-to-tunnel assembly as well as every individual sub-component. I've sourced very specific fasteners for this part of the process that will add a unique touch to the restored chassis. Pics show the bulkhead tunnel, and sub-components.
As I've noted from the start - this is a monumental effort. The level of damage that was present when I rescued my original sled from the middle of a huge farm field last July was just the tip of the iceberg. Like many restoration projects, every layer you peel away exposes new damage that wasn't apparent initially. That's all part of the challenge!
Time to start the rebuild process! More updates to come . . . .
![Gas Rectangle Auto part Machine Bumper]()
![Auto part Metal Automotive design Carbon Composite material]()
![Rectangle Bumper Electronic instrument Wood Gas]()
![Table Automotive tire Font Wood Audio equipment]()
Once metal fab restoration work was complete on all parts, they were sent out for media blast and powder coat. Just picked up everything late this past week, and at the same time dropped off all of the front and rear suspension components which are next on the list for blast and powder coat. Pics show the various chassis components as I received them from the powder coat shop.
Now the chassis re-build process starts. The restored chassis will actually be a bolt-together assembly instead of being riveted. This includes the bulkhead-to-tunnel assembly as well as every individual sub-component. I've sourced very specific fasteners for this part of the process that will add a unique touch to the restored chassis. Pics show the bulkhead tunnel, and sub-components.
As I've noted from the start - this is a monumental effort. The level of damage that was present when I rescued my original sled from the middle of a huge farm field last July was just the tip of the iceberg. Like many restoration projects, every layer you peel away exposes new damage that wasn't apparent initially. That's all part of the challenge!
Time to start the rebuild process! More updates to come . . . .
The chassis rebuild process in now underway - in my basement shop! Too cold here in northern MN to be working in the garage . . .
Anyway - starting with the tunnel, I've attached the four skid frame support brackets, the rear close-off panel, the rear bumper, and new side tunnel decals. As mentioned earlier, I will be using various threaded fasteners for reassembly of the entire chassis as opposed to the pop rivets used at the factory. The type of threaded fastener used depends on the function of a particular component and its location on the chassis. As a note, to accommodate the M5 fasteners being used for the majority of reassembly, the existing factory rivet holes in the tunnel and support components were slightly enlarged.
For attaching the rear tunnel close-off panel, I'm using M5 high-strength hex flange cap screws and M5 high-strength flange locknuts on the sides where there are no clearance issues with other components. For the top of the close-off panel - which was riveted from the factory - I'm using M5 extreme low profile TORX drive machine screws (see pic) and M5 high-strength flange locknuts. The extreme low profile M5 screws are essentially the same height as the factory rivets, which make them perfect for use in places where the profile is critical. For anyone working on a restoration project and is looking for an alternative to factory spec pop rivets, consider using these fasteners if a low head profile is required.
For fastening the skid frame support/reinforcement brackets to the tunnel, I'm using black anodized countersunk washers and high-strength M5 flat head machine screws on the outside and securing with M5 high-strength flange locknuts on the inside (see pics). The countersunk washers are 3/4" OD which provides for a much broader surface area of support around the head of the machine screws. The countersunk washers/flathead screw combo also provides for a nice custom look.
Next step is attaching the various brackets and components to the bulkhead . . . .
![Wood Laptop Gas Gadget Audio equipment]()
![Liquid Water Fluid Circle Ceiling]()
![Hood Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Audio equipment]()
![Audio equipment Wood Gas Technology Reflex camera]()
Anyway - starting with the tunnel, I've attached the four skid frame support brackets, the rear close-off panel, the rear bumper, and new side tunnel decals. As mentioned earlier, I will be using various threaded fasteners for reassembly of the entire chassis as opposed to the pop rivets used at the factory. The type of threaded fastener used depends on the function of a particular component and its location on the chassis. As a note, to accommodate the M5 fasteners being used for the majority of reassembly, the existing factory rivet holes in the tunnel and support components were slightly enlarged.
For attaching the rear tunnel close-off panel, I'm using M5 high-strength hex flange cap screws and M5 high-strength flange locknuts on the sides where there are no clearance issues with other components. For the top of the close-off panel - which was riveted from the factory - I'm using M5 extreme low profile TORX drive machine screws (see pic) and M5 high-strength flange locknuts. The extreme low profile M5 screws are essentially the same height as the factory rivets, which make them perfect for use in places where the profile is critical. For anyone working on a restoration project and is looking for an alternative to factory spec pop rivets, consider using these fasteners if a low head profile is required.
For fastening the skid frame support/reinforcement brackets to the tunnel, I'm using black anodized countersunk washers and high-strength M5 flat head machine screws on the outside and securing with M5 high-strength flange locknuts on the inside (see pics). The countersunk washers are 3/4" OD which provides for a much broader surface area of support around the head of the machine screws. The countersunk washers/flathead screw combo also provides for a nice custom look.
Next step is attaching the various brackets and components to the bulkhead . . . .
Finally getting back to my original '93 MXZ project. I've had very limited spare time this winter to make progress, but the pieces are starting to come together . . . .
The focus right now is on chassis rebuild. As noted in some earlier posts, the chassis was stripped-down to the last rivet. Bulkhead separated from the tunnel, heat exchangers removed. Lots of metal fab and various repairs were required on both the tunnel and bulkhead. An unfortunate experience with media blasting resulted in even more metal fab. Finally all pieces were restored to best effort and powder coated.
This chassis is now a bolt-together assembly - no rivets are used. Fasteners of various types have been utilized depending on location and function. A 1/8" thick stainless steel plate was fabricated and secured to the drive shaft PTO side bearing carrier location. The PTO drive shaft bearling had seized at some point during the previous owner's time, and that seizure resulted in the drive shaft gouging a large "slot" back into the tunnel. I hdn't seen this before, but apparently that conditon was not uncommon if the PTO side bearing was not properly maintained. The SS plate is secured with six fasteners, resulting in a much stronger mount for the PTO side drive axle.
With the raw chassis now assembled, the next phase of the project is to start restoring and adding individual components back onto the chassis. Hopefully I'll be making much better progress on this project over the next couple months. More updates to follow . . . .
![Couch studio couch Bumper Rectangle Gas]()
![Watercraft Rectangle Bumper Naval architecture Gas]()
![Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper Rim]()
![Musical instrument accessory Electronic instrument Audio equipment Machine Auto part]()
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior Asphalt Road surface]()
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The focus right now is on chassis rebuild. As noted in some earlier posts, the chassis was stripped-down to the last rivet. Bulkhead separated from the tunnel, heat exchangers removed. Lots of metal fab and various repairs were required on both the tunnel and bulkhead. An unfortunate experience with media blasting resulted in even more metal fab. Finally all pieces were restored to best effort and powder coated.
This chassis is now a bolt-together assembly - no rivets are used. Fasteners of various types have been utilized depending on location and function. A 1/8" thick stainless steel plate was fabricated and secured to the drive shaft PTO side bearing carrier location. The PTO drive shaft bearling had seized at some point during the previous owner's time, and that seizure resulted in the drive shaft gouging a large "slot" back into the tunnel. I hdn't seen this before, but apparently that conditon was not uncommon if the PTO side bearing was not properly maintained. The SS plate is secured with six fasteners, resulting in a much stronger mount for the PTO side drive axle.
With the raw chassis now assembled, the next phase of the project is to start restoring and adding individual components back onto the chassis. Hopefully I'll be making much better progress on this project over the next couple months. More updates to follow . . . .
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Nice sled "crash34"! Wish my original '93 MXZ that I'm currently restoring looked that that to start with!
Yours would be a great restoration candidate as the starting point is really good. I've been sourcing many NOS parts for my project through Fullerton's PAC in Bracebridge, Ontario. They specialize in NOS Ski-Doo parts and have been a fantastic parts source for me. They ship to the U.S. and are great to work with. You can reach them at 705-646-0051. Ask for Tracey - she'll help you out. I've also sourced many NOS parts from existing Ski-Doo dealers. The "Litespeed" software system that most BRP dealers have lets them search inventory instantly from the entire network of dealers.
If you decide to turn your sled into a project, feel free to get in touch if you have questions. This is my 4th '93 MXZ resto project - I'm essentially an expert on the F2000 chassis at this point . . .
As for my project, I've got the chaincase, countershaft, and PTO bearing carrier assembly installed. Also added the reinforced steering pivot mount hardware that was actually stock on the '93 Mach Z (3rd and 4th pics). Final pic shows the custom fabricated SS reinforcement plate that is located against the bulkhead and under the steering tie rod boot assembly on each side. The original plates are mild steel and were significantly rusted, so I decided to duplicate the parts out of SS.
Lots of work left, but the pieces are coming together . . . .
![Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design]()
![Hood Automotive tire Automotive design Bumper Motor vehicle]()
![Motor vehicle Machine Gas Auto part Automotive exterior]()
![Motor vehicle Wood Rim Bicycle part Machine]()
![Bumper Automotive exterior Fender Gas Automotive tire]()
Yours would be a great restoration candidate as the starting point is really good. I've been sourcing many NOS parts for my project through Fullerton's PAC in Bracebridge, Ontario. They specialize in NOS Ski-Doo parts and have been a fantastic parts source for me. They ship to the U.S. and are great to work with. You can reach them at 705-646-0051. Ask for Tracey - she'll help you out. I've also sourced many NOS parts from existing Ski-Doo dealers. The "Litespeed" software system that most BRP dealers have lets them search inventory instantly from the entire network of dealers.
If you decide to turn your sled into a project, feel free to get in touch if you have questions. This is my 4th '93 MXZ resto project - I'm essentially an expert on the F2000 chassis at this point . . .
As for my project, I've got the chaincase, countershaft, and PTO bearing carrier assembly installed. Also added the reinforced steering pivot mount hardware that was actually stock on the '93 Mach Z (3rd and 4th pics). Final pic shows the custom fabricated SS reinforcement plate that is located against the bulkhead and under the steering tie rod boot assembly on each side. The original plates are mild steel and were significantly rusted, so I decided to duplicate the parts out of SS.
Lots of work left, but the pieces are coming together . . . .
41 - 60 of 74 Posts
