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FOUND! Reunited with my '93 MXZ after 30 years

9059 Views 73 Replies 29 Participants Last post by  coyotekiller
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Many of you have seen my earlier post regarding the search for my original '93 MXZ. Thanks to the efforts of a very helpful representative with the Minnesota DNR - who really went above and beyond for my benefit - I was able to make contact with the current owner of my original sled. This was a long-term search, and after months of effort, I was thrilled with the prospect of being able to acquire my original sled and bring it back home after 30 years. My hope is that I'd find it in decent condition, well maintained and garage kept. That was the hope anyway . . .

If I was able to find the sled, the plan was always to make this a restoration project, assuming that after 30 years the sled would likely need some level of work to return it to its former glory. When I first talked to the current owner - who lives in west central Minnesota - and started asking questions, I learned that the sled has been sitting out in the "back 40" for nearly two years. That generate lots of bad visions!

Apparently, the owner's kids were the main riders of the sled during the 20 years that he has owned it. As the story goes, one day two winters ago they were out riding it and ran out of gas. They walked back to their house, and the sled sat right where it stopped. They did prop up the track to get it off the ground, and it was under a small tree. That's where it has been since. Summer and winter - uncovered.

I showed up at the owner's place on July 1st, and we proceeded to take the walk through a couple hundred yards of woods and then another hundred yards of 4-foot-tall grass to get to where the sled was sitting. Finally - I saw it. I knew it would be rough, and it was! Significant front-end damage, sun-baked hood, trashed seat - it was a sad picture. To think that my prized old sled had been treated so poorly was a bummer for sure. I checked the VIN and a couple other details that only I would know about to confirm that this was in fact my original sled. It was.

I told the owner that this sled was really bordering on a salvage deal, but since it was my original sled, and because I worked so hard to find it, I'd still be interested in buying it and bringing it home for further evaluation. I made an offer, he took it, and we spent three hours getting it out of the woods. Quite an operation.

With the sled now in my shop, I'm going to blow it apart (what's left of it!) and really evaluate just what I've got and whether or not it would be advisable to even start a resto project. I've already restored three of these previously, but the starting points on those projects were far beyond what this one is. It would be a challenge for sure - it will take some serious metal fab along with significant resto work on every component. Also, lots of $$$$. So, the bottom-line question is this: how bad do I want my original sled to live on? I can't answer that question just yet. Stay tuned . . . .

Ken
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I have been talking with Rev Runner through this entire process and to say that I am elated for him is a mild understatement!

This story is so cool that it makes this sled even more special. If this one turns out half as good as the other 3 1993 MXZ’s he restored it will be nothing short of a museum piece.

Congrats Ken!

Junkman


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Thanks Junkman! For those following this thread, SkiDoojunky has been a great source of support for this very challenging restoration. Lots of great people in the vintage world! More project updates and pics to follow . . .
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Will be fun to watch, good luck!
The tear-down process is advancing quickly. Next step is removing engine, coolant and oil tanks, and ultimately front suspension. Then it will be on to chassis work which will involve repairs to several damage areas, a few mods, clean-up, media blast, and powder coat.
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The tear-down process generally moves fast - the actual resto work is what takes the time. More updates to follow as the project moves along . . .
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Going to the expense of powder coating the chassis wow... More power to ya... I would just paint it like the factory did...
Going to the expense of powder coating the chassis wow... More power to ya... I would just paint it like the factory did...
Actually I doubt that sending it out, with them stripping and powder coating it is more than painting it. Pretty sure these were powdercoated from factory. Don’t get me wrong, I paint most of my stuff but do it myself with automotive quality paint. I am very happy with appearance and would put it up against powder coating any day - durability may be not as good, but much tougher than a rattle can. Having to send it out for professional painting? Probably would cost more than powder coating.
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Actually I doubt that sending it out, with them stripping and powder coating it is more than painting it. Pretty sure these were powdercoated from factory. Don’t get me wrong, I paint most of my stuff but do it myself with automotive quality paint. I am very happy with appearance and would put it up against powder coating any day - durability may be not as good, but much tougher than a rattle can. Having to send it out for professional painting? Probably would cost more than powder coating.
You are correct Pete. This era of sleds was powdercoated at the factory.


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You're exactly right guys - the chassis on the '93 MXZ was powder coated from the factory. Powder coat is very durable, but when used on steel - like several components on the chassis - it will peel over time if the substrate layer (steel) begins to rust. That's why surface prep for powder coat on steel is really critical.

Fortunately, I've got a great contact close to me that does both media blasting and powder coating in the same shop. Very reasonable rates and they do great work.
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I believe the PRS chassis was the first to be powder coated, maybe someone can confirm if it was from the first PRS in 85? What about the 84 Pro Stock, or did they experiment with powder coat on any earlier stuff?

Good to have a shop that is familiar with doing sleds, an inexperienced shop can distort an aluminum tunnel pretty easily.
I don't know much about powder coat, but from what I've read it is very durable and long lasting, won't wear off in the typical spots like paint does. One thing that I think is a draw-back is the fact that if it does peel somewhere, say around a rivet head, something like that, it's very difficult to "feather edge" and touch up.

I like good quality paint, looks good and I can repair it if needed. That, and where I keep my machines I would probably have to transport them something like a five hour drive to find a powder coating facility.

Back to the original topic, glad you found your machine and I hope you can bring it back to what you remember, looks like you have the ability and desire to do so. Like many others, I'll be watching the progress.
I believe the PRS chassis was the first to be powder coated, maybe someone can confirm if it was from the first PRS in 85? What about the 84 Pro Stock, or did they experiment with powder coat on any earlier stuff?
I keep mentioning this old geezer I know over here that spent a lifetime as technical manager at BRP Sweden. He told me the PRS models were the first to be powder coated. The reason he remembers this is because he went on a factory tour specifically to see the new powder coating line.

Not sure about the Pro Stock, but he claims the ”production” PRS models were definitely powder coated from day one. Apparently, the process was not very well sorted out during the first couple years, resulting in all kinds of attachment problems, flaking, peeling and rusty front frames.
The tear-down phase of this project is essentially complete. All bolt-on components have been removed, raw chassis is now up on the frame table. Now we enter the metal fab stage as the chassis will undergo an intense cleaning, sub-component removal, damage repair, media bast and paint. This is where the fun really starts!

Both footrest assemblies will be removed, repaired where necessary, blasted, and powder coated. These assemblies contain several steel components and are typically well rusted on F series chassis machines. Complete removal and disassembly of the footrest structure is the only way to properly address restoration on these components. Lots of rivets to remove! This chassis is the heart of the sled, so extra time will be spent to return it to the best possible condition.
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True resto work is now just beginning. Not bad progress so far considering this sled was out in the middle of a field 10 days ago! More updates to follow . . .
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This story and your determination is amazing! Very happy for you and look forward to seeing more photos of the process.
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This week's update . . .

The metal fab stage continued this past weekend. Both the LH and RH footrest assemblies were removed from the chassis. This was necessary for both damage repair and general restoration purposes. Lots of rivets to drill out and remove - painstaking process with limited access to many of them. It starts by carefully drilling the head of the rivet until it breaks loose, then extracting the remaining shank from the back side. Removal of the shank is difficult as well, especially when it remains stuck in a steel part and is rusty. Removal of the shank involves several techniques to do it successfully.

The steel portion of the footrest assemblies on the F2000 chassis are typically subject to more extensive corrosion (see pic), and the only way to restore them is to have them removed and disassembled completely, then media-blasted and powder coated. They will be re-installed with high-strength M5 bolts and locknuts. Also being removed are the steel mounting brackets in the tunnel used for securing the skid frame, and several remaining brackets on top of the tunnel. Much like the footrest assemblies, this is a very labor-intensive process of rivet removal.

The next phase of this project is addressing the raw chassis itself. There are several areas of damage repair that will be addressed, along with intense cleaning and prep for paint.
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With all the dissimilar metals contacting each other it's no wonder the finish peels off these things..... Little bit of moisture, and the battery effect takes over and off comes the powdercoat and paint, where they contact each other first. Steel in contact with aluminum, plus water = voltage.

If you re-finish everything seperately, and then mechanically fasten them back together, consider using Tef-Gel to help mitigate the dissimilar metal corrosion effects (y)
After several weeks of metal fab work, the raw chassis has been delivered to my vendor for media blast and powder coat. This work has consisted of damage repair, modifications, and prep for media blast/powder coat. Lots of hours into metal work! Every bracket was removed from the raw chassis as part of this project. Lots of rivets to remove and holes to de-burr. Removed components include both footrest assemblies, rear close-off panel, all tunnel reinforcement/skid frame mounting brackets, and several smaller brackets up front. Essentially every component that was riveted to the raw chassis was removed and will be addressed individually.

While the raw chassis is being blasted/powder coated, I'll be focusing on the skid frame restoration next. That's essentially a separate restoration project unto itself. All steel parts and the rails will be blasted/powder coated, and all fasteners will be replaced with NOS parts. All three original shocks in the skid frame will be replaced with NOS units as well. The skid frame will basically be like new when complete.

Along with the skid frame project, I'll be addressing restoration of all of the individual parts that were removed from the chassis. Those parts will need prep work and they will all be ultimately blasted/powder coated.

Pics show the raw chassis as delivered to my blast/powder coat vendor. Really no part of it left untouched . . . .
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This is going to turn out amazing……keep the pics coming Ken!


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^^^ I agree, your work looks fantastic and I’m a picky guy. 😬
Been busy the past few weeks with my business (Up North Technologies) preparing for and going to the Hayday's event ere in MN. Now with that behind me, I can get back to the project . . .

Got the chassis back from blast/powder coat a couple weeks ago. The new powder coat gloss black finish looks great. Unfortunately, the media blast process resulted in warping/rippling/distortion of the tunnel to an extent that I've decided to address it.

Keep in mind that the chassis was powder coated at the factory, and it's very difficult to remove. While there are chemical methods for removing old powder coat, they involve nasty ingredients and there are very few vendors that offer that service. For that reason, I went the media blasting route to remove the old powder coat.

It requires significant pressure during blast to remove old powder coat. That pressure - along with the blast media itself - tends to cause issues to thin material like the tunnel. The tunnel on the '93 is only 1/16" thick, so when exposed to high pressure blast media it suffered the effects of warping/rippling/distortion. Another issue of the blast process is that is creates a work-hardening of the material. That means that the distortion caused by media blast can't be easily corrected.

The solution? The chassis had to come apart further so that I can get the tunnel annealed. I also need to strip all of the recently applied powder coat from the tunnel. Annealing is a process of exposing the metal to 650 degrees F for 4-1/2 hours. That will return the aluminum to a soft temper state (which is where it was prior to media blasting) which will allow me to address the distortion and re-shape the tunnel back to where it should be.

This is an important note for anyone planning to restore an older sled that has been factory powder coated. If you are considering media blasting as a removal method, you'll need to be extremely careful during that process - especially with thinner, unsupported metal.

All that being said, I went through the process of removing all of the rivets that were used to join the bulkhead to the tunnel. I also removed the two heat exchanger units as well so that I can work on the tunnel as a separate component. Note from the pic that during manufacturing, the chassis was powder coated as a complete assembly only - you can see the unpainted portions where parts come together. On reassembly, I will be powder coating all of the chassis components individually so there will not be any unpainted surfaces. Also, stock (rusty) rivets will be replaced with stainless steel.

Once I rework the tunnel, everything gets powder coated again and reassembled. Then I'm hopefully back on track with this project . . . .
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Looks like you are going all the way. Nice. I love to watch these builds progress. Lots of pict are great for others that may want to restore a similar sled. Stripping and powder coating can be tricky and costly but way worth it. I split the frame on my 85 Plus and had it powder coated. No regrets.
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