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Hey guys, so I figured I'd post a built thread seeing as how I have a few projects going on my sled. Hopefully you guys enjoy it, I'll have lots of pictures for you guys. I've gotta give a HUGE thanks to my buddy Mitch (crazy nothern rider on dooTalk). He's a real good buddy, helps me figure stuff out all the time.

So here's what I have done to the sled right now:

-43/47 Helix
-200/290 Primary
-Quick Clickers
If you need to do any clutch work, use the search. There are a ton of posts about it, and tons of help on the site. DJM has a lot of posts too, especially for the 600 etec. Doing your own clutch work is much cheaper than buying a kit, and what you learn is almost invaluable. I'm not saying don't buy a kit, but do your research beforehand.

-Rox adjustable riser 6"- 8.25" riser
-Powermadd handguards
-PDP Contour Snowflap
-SLP 3' LED Bar

Here's what I have left:

-Install new 1.5" Ripsaw track
-Install studs --> 1.675" Stud boy powerpoints with double backers. Going to do 4 studs every other bar, making 84 studs.
-Install new switches. I've gotten rid of the switch block, and wired in the new switches, now I need to install them in the sled. This means cut plastic.

And now, on to the pictures!

Installing the PDP Contour snowflap. I definitely recommend these guys to anyone in the market for a new flap. Great quality, and they look great! Instead of using rivets, I used 4-bolts, and threw on some blue loctite to keep em tight.



 

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Now on to the switches.

Start by taking all the plastics off the sled, headlights and all. Find your wire harness, and disconnect it from the sled (the big plug from behind the gauge cluster) and disconnect the little plugs from either side of the handlebars, now you can work on the harness on your workbench (or truck tailgate like I did lol).

Here are the wire colours and what they are for:

Start/RER - Red/Green
Start/RER Power wire - Red/Grey
Ground - Black
*Something to note - On the XP's, the Start/RER button has its own wire from the switch block to a plug under the console.

Headlight Power - Red/Orange
High Beam - Grey
Low Beam - Grey/Violet

Hand/thumb warmer power - Red/Yellow
Handwarmer - Orange
Handwarmer High - Orange/White
Handwarmer Low - Orange/Violet
Thumbwarmer - Brown/White
Thumbwarer High - Brown
Thumbwarmer Low - Brown/Yellow



Now, I cut all the wires off the main switch block, but left a few inches of wire. I had a lot of wire left to give me lots of room in case of screw up's.


Here's the wire harness, labeled and everything, this took a while haha.







Now, I dont have any pictures of the switches wired on, but I'll get some posted when I make it back to the shop Wednesday. Though, here is a picture from Irondog of what his was, once wired up (from this post: http://www.dootalk.c...irondog__st__15):

 

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Now, installing my first top gear (24 tooth). Original gearing is 25/45, I went down to 24/45 and also bought a 23 top gear to try later on.

To do this, take out the can, disconnect and remove the battery, remove the battery harness, then drain the chaincase by loosening the 8 (or 10?) bolts. There is a hole in the guard below the chaincase, so it flows out there. After it's been drained, remove the chaincase cover by removing the bolts. Loosen the chain by unscrewing the tensioner, pop out the top gear, pop in the new one, then throw the cover back on. Make sure to wipe out the inside of the chaincase with a rag or something to clean it up. Don't forget to tighten your chain back to where it should be.

When tightening the bolts for the cover, don't tighten one at a time, tighten them all slowly so it doesnt tweak. Once you've got the cover back on, pull out the rubber grommet and put in ~12oz. of gear oil. Put the rubber grommet back in, then the battery then the muffler.

Bam! Done!

 

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Now onto the new track. It's a 2-ply 1.5" Ripsaw, 120" long, 2.86 pitch, replacing the original 1-ply 1" Ripsaw.



I'm studding it using 1.675" Stud Boy Powerpoints, with double power plate backers. I didn't have a template, so I made my own. I'm going with 84 studs (4 every other bar), using a V pattern. I marked the pattern using white out.



After marking all the holes, I drilled them.



Drilling a track is much easier with the track off the sled lol. I'll be installing the track in a few weeks, but I'll get the skid out of the sled later this week (will post pics and how to do it for those that don't know).
 

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Now here's some goodies for me!

Bought myself a new helmet - an FXR Octane. Fits nicely, looks great. Can't wait to try it out in the winter.



I was also at the Toronto International Snowmobile and ATV show this weekend and snapped a couple pics of the Freeride. I must say, its a pretty sweet looking machine! I also found a neat polish - Flitz its called, and came with a polishing brush for my drill. I'm excited to try it.



Flitz polish


And one of my pup




So , now I have the following left to do to the sled:

-Finish installing new switches
-Install studs
-Install track
-Hope for snow
 

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what are the procedures for re tensioning your chain? how do u know how much to tighten it? (yes I'm a n00b)
 

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what did you do for a tail light?
 

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what did you do for a tail light?
http://www.startingl...6&productID=466

I bought the 3 1/4" led light with the red lens. It's pretty cheap, comes with loads of wire, and is easy to install - just remove the exisiting tail light assembly, solder on your new light to the original wires and then put it where you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just ordered a GoPro 3 Silver Edition, pretty excited to get that one out and start messing with it!

I'm gonna be removing the decals on the sled and make it clean, so more pics to come!
 

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The new go pros look awesome. I would most defiantly buy one if i didn't have 3 other go pros already. If i ever break one of my current ones i will be replacing it with a spiffy new Hero 3. Tell us how the Hero 3 is once you get it!!! (maybe post up a pic or two that you take with it)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I will for sure. Gonna grab a suction cup mount and a helmet strap mount and find a few mounting places I likes to use to take footage during the season.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I've got the new switches wired in, the hand/thumb warmers work, and the Start/RER does 'SOMETIMES".

I'm using a momentary toggle switch (http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8161713/Toggle/ON/OFF/ON-%28Momentary%29-Toggle-Switch). It works when I push in one direction, and the other blows the 5amp fuse.

Another thing, the switch itself doesn't always work, I'm not sure why, but it seems to work if I wiggle the panel, which makes me think the space is too tight for the switch.

I'll have to work on it some more tomorrow.
 

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Alright boys, got a lot of stuff done this week on the sled:

I got to the shop on wednesday, and immediately fixed my switch problem, got it done and over with here's the pics:




The two switches on the left side are hand and thumb warmers (top is hand, bottom is thumb). Push forward for high, middle is off, and back is low. The switch on the right is Start/RER. Works great!

Next up: Removing decals.
 

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So first off, take the stickers off using a heat gun/blow dryer. It takes a bit of time, at least for me, as I kept ripping the old decals lol.

Now to clean the residue, I tried a bunch of things to see what does and does not work.

I read some people used WD40 to get rid of the glue residue, and that didn't work. Not at all. I then tried soap and water, that didnt work either haha.


Then I tried Goo-Gone, it didnt work either, I must have spent an hour with this stuff and got nowhere.


I finally got fed up and used gasoline. It took all of 2 minutes to completely clean the panels, no residue and I washed with soap and water, and voila. Perfectly clean panels!



After cleaning the panels, I actually polished the tunnel with Flitz polish. It isnt amazing, but definitely brought out some shine, it worked pretty well for a one-step polish and remove product.

Next up: Pulling the skid!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So, pulling the skid was pretty easy. Take out the 4 bolts that hold it in (2 at the front on either side, 2 on the back at either side), then unscrew the 2 bolts for track tension so the track spins easily around the skid. Afterwards, lift the back end of the sled up in the air and pull the skid out!

Make sure to mark you bolts so you know what side they came form and if they are from the front or back. Another smart thing to do is use masking tape to keep the bushings in the skid so they don't fall out and you lose them.

Back of sled in the air:


Skid Dropped:


Skid out of track (and bushings taped in lol):


I also put in some new sliders and wheel bearings. I was surprised at how easy the sliders slid on and off, made my life a bit easier haha.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another thing I did today was pull the skid out of my dads sled. He's getting some new shocks from Ian @ Monster Performance, and I had to do some measuring for Ian. Great guy on the phone, my old man is excited for his new shocks!




Well, thats it for now! Next thing on the list is to replace my dads shocks, put on my new 1.5" Ripsaw track, and put the skids back in to both machines!.
I should be getting my GoPro 3 Silver Edition next Tuesday, so I'm excited, gonna get it set up and ready for sledding this winter!

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, I know he will. The current shocks are motion control garbage, just spring left in 'em.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So for the next while, this thread will be pretty slow - I'm waiting to get my track installed.

All I've done in the past week was install new bushings, new wheel bearings and a second limiter strap.



I have new bottom panels (to replace the yellow)


And have some white krylon to paint the ring around the gauge cluster, maybe some other painting as well, havent decided yet.


I also set up my gopro on my helmet. I'm gonna try 720 at 60fps and 1080 at 30 fps to see what works best for me.


 
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