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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Did a search, not a lot of results? I can't seem to find a recommended weight range for the stock torsion springs. I'm probably 280 with gear and have the linq tank and bag. Will the stock springs work for me? I haven't cranked them up yet, no riding yet where I live. Getting ready for a trip to Maine this weekend.
 

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Im 30lbs less than you with gear and have big boys on both sleds, IMO, get em
 

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I've got a set of 614/615 "big boy" springs for sale. If you are interested... Send me a PM
 

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I go 280 ,bag and gas on a gade . have stock springs and ride on 2 or 3. Do not bottom out and all is well. Now when I go two up ,I use big boy springs. 270 and 271..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I go 280 ,bag and gas on a gade . have stock springs and ride on 2 or 3. Do not bottom out and all is well. Now when I go two up ,I use big boy springs. 270 and 271..
I've got a set of 614/615 "big boy" springs for sale. If you are interested... Send me a PM
I will let you know about the springs. I guess I'm gonna see how the stockers do this weekend.
 

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I have the 270/271 Springs, i won't ride without them since i am a big guy. I love how my 1200X rides with them.

The 270/271 Springs are available at any skidoo dealer.
 

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I didn't go all the way to big boy, I went to the 287/289. Witch is a 1.44 compared to the big boy 1.66. I plan on putting them on next weekend.
 

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One other option is to install a set of torsion spring spacers. I got them from Ian at Monster Performance a couple years ago for my '13 TNT 800. I go about 275 and didn't want to lose too much of the rMotion cushy ride with the stiffer springs so I went with the torsion spring spacers.

They add some additional pre-load to the stock springs and I rode all season with the torsion springs on 2. I started out on the 3 and had to drop them because I started running warmer on hard packed trails.
 

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I would go 270/271 with spring spacers. I have the 287/289's, and they are perfect for me. I go about 230 in street clothes. I would bet that anyone over 250 would be a bit much for the 287/289. The spacers help to make it more fluid and keep the springs from twisting, it's a no brainier when you have them off.
 

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I agree with the 270/271 spring choice with the the sleeves or spacers for inside the wraps of the torsion spring to keep the alignment and rate. The other thing I personally did is to move the slider block on the rail back 3 inches, and raised it up 2 inches.........to keep the angle the same. This does 2 things, with the shorter "ARM" from the pivot point to the slider block it adds rate during initial compression, But the angle of change from ride height to compression changes less, it gains less rate during large compression.............it changes the "MOTION RATIO"..........so for a big guy it soaks the stutter bumps better, while still riding soft over the large bumps. The engineers design it for the "AVERAGE" person, you can add spring rate but that makes it stiffer all the way through the travel, with moving the slider you are re-engineering it for yourself.

On a side note, when I ride solo I ride more aggressive and this is a good setting for me at 280 pounds then while riding double with my wife I ride a little slower and it provides the same comfort without any adjustments. BEST solos and two up settings I have found............building the bracket to move the slider block back was very easy. Then never having to adjust settings back and forth made it all worth the evening building bolt on brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I agree with the 270/271 spring choice with the the sleeves or spacers for inside the wraps of the torsion spring to keep the alignment and rate. The other thing I personally did is to move the slider block on the rail back 3 inches, and raised it up 2 inches.........to keep the angle the same. This does 2 things, with the shorter "ARM" from the pivot point to the slider block it adds rate during initial compression, But the angle of change from ride height to compression changes less, it gains less rate during large compression.............it changes the "MOTION RATIO"..........so for a big guy it soaks the stutter bumps better, while still riding soft over the large bumps. The engineers design it for the "AVERAGE" person, you can add spring rate but that makes it stiffer all the way through the travel, with moving the slider you are re-engineering it for yourself.

On a side note, when I ride solo I ride more aggressive and this is a good setting for me at 280 pounds then while riding double with my wife I ride a little slower and it provides the same comfort without any adjustments. BEST solos and two up settings I have found............building the bracket to move the slider block back was very easy. Then never having to adjust settings back and forth made it all worth the evening building bolt on brackets.
Yes, I need to see what you are talking about please. If you have pics I'd really appreciate seeing them!
 

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Just got back from a overnight trip to the Gun Flint with my wife. I will try and get a picture, I can tell you up front tech stuff is not my strong suit. Building stuff is where I thrive. I'm not sure you will see much from a picture..........it bolts to the INSIDE of the rail, so all you will see is the top of the bracket with the slider block bolted on there. I used 3/16" thick aluminum, 6061 T6 material, at 2 1/2" wide. Started by cutting a 3 1/2" length, then cutting another piece that was the same size. Drilled a 1/4 inch diameter hole 1/2" up from the bottom, 1/2 back from the front.......hold them together in a vise and drill both brackets at the same time. That hole just became the locating hole, that hole will bolt into the stock slider block hole already in the rail..........Then I drilled another hole at the rear of the brackets 1/2" up from the bottom, and 1/2" from the rear of the bracket. Bolt the brackets onto the rail and LEVEL them with the rail, then drill through the back hole in the bracket producing the rear hole in the rail. Then drill a hole 1/2 inch down from the top of the bracket, and a 1/2" forward from the rear of the bracket..........you end up with a rectangle with 3 holes...........1 hole at front-bottom that will bolt into stock slider block hole, then 2 more holes in the rear of the bracket........bottom bolts to rail, and slider bolts to top of bracket............you need a longer bolt to hold the slider block on, and a 3/16 spacer between the bracket and the slider block..........because it now bolts INSIDE the rail the end of the spring will rub the rail without a spacer. Just need to move the spring back out to get the same lateral location............or side to side location.

I didn't leave my a rectangle, I used a sharpie to draw a curve and give it a little shape........so it looked like a professional bracket, and trim a few grams of weight. I rounded off all the corners. Just be sure to put a bolt in each hole as you drill the brackets........keep them bolted together so both brackets are twins............after the first hole I never unbolted mine from each other until I was happy with the finished bracket..........so the curves were the same, so they looked identical from side to side.

If I remember correctly I drilled and used 1/4" holes while building, then needed to open them up to 5/16" holes for the final assembly, because that is what the slider block had from Skidoo.............

Thought about making them on a CNC machine........just start with a thicker piece of material and machine in a step for it to sit on top the stock rail along with the bolts..........then you wouldn't need the spacer to move the torsion spring back out.........that "off-set" would be machined into the bracket. The way I built mine there is no right or left.......if they were machined the off-set would create the right and left situation, they would need to be mirror images at that point.
 

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View attachment 1310105 004.JPG 004.JPG

Not sure these pictures attached correctly.........not a tech person.

Also, this bracket is different than I remember..........the size and dimensions are different.........from the front hole where the stock slide bolted on is 1 3/4 inch...........not the 2 1/2 I thought it was..........and it's a triangle more than a rectangle......I hope the CONCEPT of this bracket is what comes across to others trying to add stiffer springs on initial compression while still having a softer spring in large compression bumps.

Didn't mean to mislead anyone, it's been 3 or 4 years since these brackets were built, thus been the same since they have been looked at.........
 

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Did monster performance suggest using the stock springs or did you try on your own? I am same weight and have the heavier springs, they are a little stiff on the small stutter bumps. Thanks

One other option is to install a set of torsion spring spacers. I got them from Ian at Monster Performance a couple years ago for my '13 TNT 800. I go about 275 and didn't want to lose too much of the rMotion cushy ride with the stiffer springs so I went with the torsion spring spacers.

They add some additional pre-load to the stock springs and I rode all season with the torsion springs on 2. I started out on the 3 and had to drop them because I started running warmer on hard packed trails.
 
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