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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So last ride last season as I was going up a hill there was a ratcheting noise coming from the transmission like a chain slipping on a worn sprocket. Managed to nurse home in low gear but tried high again a couple times with it to skip again when a strain came on her. Took out transmission today and disassembled and found a worn fwd shifter fork and the fwd dog or clutch had damage on the tangs and a worn grove where the fork sits. The transmission was very hot and the gear oil was black and burnt and when I opened it up and all the parts and bearings are turned colour a bit. My question to all here is is this anything to worry about. The bearings felt fine and run smooth. I have the parts to replace the worn stuff from a doner transmission that had Damaged gears. The over heat was due to the worn parts causing friction heat and it was likely low on oil a bit as I found oil in the track drive axle. What's your thoughts on the over heated parts. Good or no good?
 

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The rest of the parts should be fine unless there's noticeable damage, clean all the parts of oil carbon buildup if any is left still on the existing parts, be sure to change out the magnetic cap O-ring or both, apply a good sealant to the o-ring as a safeguard.
 
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So last ride last season as I was going up a hill there was a ratcheting noise coming from the transmission like a chain slipping on a worn sprocket. Managed to nurse home in low gear
The low gear is independent of the high so you could have driven full speed in 1st without doing anymore damage than already done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes. I had the exact damage as you did. And oil in the drive axle. Great pictures you have on the gear box post. It helps a lot. Just found it last night.
 

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The rest of the parts should be fine unless there's noticeable damage, clean all the parts of oil carbon buildup if any is left still on the existing parts, be sure to change out the magnetic cap O-ring or both, apply a good sealant to the o-ring as a safeguard.
I agree, I wrote a similar post but I guess I failed to hit "post" at the bottom. The heat was probably localized and not "that hot" elsewhere in the box.
 

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The rest of the parts should be fine unless there's noticeable damage, clean all the parts of oil carbon buildup if any is left still on the existing parts, be sure to change out the magnetic cap O-ring or both, apply a good sealant to the o-ring as a safeguard.
Suv1 i see that you did this in 2014, how did it work out. did you have any more issued because u never replaced the dog clutch part. this machine is my old one 2011 expy se 600 etec. not my 2019 1200.
 

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Suv1 i see that you did this in 2014, how did it work out. did you have any more issued because u never replaced the dog clutch part. this machine is my old one 2011 expy se 600 etec. not my 2019 1200.
No i didn't, i reversed the dog clutch with a new fork, meaning the worn side (2nd gear)i put in on the 1st gear side and the good side on the 2nd gear, it was my sons sled, he used it the rest of that winter and the next before the 1st started slipping, the 2nd gear still was working fine.
 

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I would also check the painted black steal frame that runs up along the fuel tank and bolts into the handlebar support portion of the pyramid frame. The tubing is known to crack and break, once broken can flex and put pressure on the shifting fork because this same frame holds the gear shifter assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No i didn't, i reversed the dog clutch with a new fork, meaning the worn side (2nd gear)i put in on the 1st gear side and the good side on the 2nd gear, it was my sons sled, he used it the rest of that winter and the next before the 1st started slipping, the 2nd gear still was working fine.
Do you know what the id of the drive axle shaft is. I'm back in NS and machine is in Newfoundland so I can't measure it. I want to machine a plug to bar off the shaft cavity so the oil can't fill it if it leaks again. I forgot to measure it before I left. I swapped the parts on the main shaft here in NS as I have a 20 ton press here and not in nl. Going down sometime in dec to put it back together.
 

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Hopefully it works out for you. Sounds like I had the same issue as you. I followed SUV1's instructions and replaced the shift fork, idler shaft bushing that melted (just like in his thread) and seals, skipped the bearing replacement because I thought they spun ok, a touch rough maybe. Lasted one trip for maybe 60 km and the skipping issue returned.

Said screw it and ran it for two years in first gear and just tried to keep the speed down when I could preparing myself for another problem. Seemed to work fine.

Finally went back in and ripped it apart again last year. It didn't look too bad so I don't really know what was causing the skipping issue again - idler shaft bushing that melted the first time was intact.

Went to the local dealer and was exploring the idea of pressing off the bearings and replacing them (another user here reported success in doing that and sourcing replacement bearings from Wajax). Dealer said the gears in the top shaft looked stressed and recommended them to be replaced.

Bit the bullet and replaced the whole top shaft (gears and bearings) shift fork, seals and it's working again.

I don't put many miles on my sled - maybe 1000 km a season.

I check the oil before every ride by sliding a piece of coat hanger down the inside of the case to confirm it hasn't leaked out. Don't really trust it but so far so good.

Good luck.
 

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Do you know what the id of the drive axle shaft is. I'm back in NS and machine is in Newfoundland so I can't measure it. I want to machine a plug to bar off the shaft cavity so the oil can't fill it if it leaks again. I forgot to measure it before I left. I swapped the parts on the main shaft here in NS as I have a 20 ton press here and not in nl. Going down sometime in dec to put it back together.
I got an axle somewhere. i'll look tomorrow and get a measurement
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hopefully it works out for you. Sounds like I had the same issue as you. I followed SUV1's instructions and replaced the shift fork, idler shaft bushing that melted (just like in his thread) and seals, skipped the bearing replacement because I thought they spun ok, a touch rough maybe. Lasted one trip for maybe 60 km and the skipping issue returned.

Said screw it and ran it for two years in first gear and just tried to keep the speed down when I could preparing myself for another problem. Seemed to work fine.

Finally went back in and ripped it apart again last year. It didn't look too bad so I don't really know what was causing the skipping issue again - idler shaft bushing that melted the first time was intact.

Went to the local dealer and was exploring the idea of pressing off the bearings and replacing them (another user here reported success in doing that and sourcing replacement bearings from Wajax). Dealer said the gears in the top shaft looked stressed and recommended them to be replaced.

Bit the bullet and replaced the whole top shaft (gears and bearings) shift fork, seals and it's working again.

I don't put many miles on my sled - maybe 1000 km a season.

I check the oil before every ride by sliding a piece of coat hanger down the inside of the case to confirm it hasn't leaked out. Don't really trust it but so far so good.

Good luck.
If you never replaced the dog clutch and gear then it would slip again. Unfortunately you can't buy these parts separately, only the full shaft assy witch is close to 700 bucks. I had access to some parts out of a transmission that only had 2000 km on it that had gear damage. Something broke and beat up a couple gears rest was fine. I measured the grove where the fwd shifter fork sits and the grove was worn .050 bigger than new. Coupled with the worn fork over .100" that's a fair bit of play so positive engagement of the clutch dogs to the tabs on the hi gear was not good causing the slipping under the strain going up hills. Where you replaced the shaft assy you should be good with no worries only the oil level witch I believe is the root cause anyway. Mine had 14000 km when it started slipping and I parked it so it wouldn't cause more damage until I could look at it. I will be keeping a closer eye on the oil level in my 2019 one. I change the gearbox oil every season and now may change it twice a season. Now that I know the issues A litre of gear oil is a lot cheaper than a 2400 dollar transmission. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

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Just a suggestion but look up a post I put up last year showing a cooling system I built for quite low cost that eliminated the hot transmission. Mine came apart at 700 k first time andwas all blue inside like you described, had a leak at the drive shaft last year at 12000k, and the inside was like the day it was rebuilt
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
SUV 1 what did you use for flange sealant. Calls for loctite 5900 but it's hard to find and big tube 60 bucks. People are using yamabond or the right stuff from permeated.
 

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i'm not sure the exact brand but i believe it was some high heat silicone i had laying around, the loctite 5900 is the proper stuff, i know it's expensive but it's the only sealant that is trustworthy for the magnetic cap.
 
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