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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
That page in the manual shows a pierced capacitor around that inspection shield.... Mine has that Pierce in the inspection plate .... Manual says that's bad.... Daag what's your thoughts on this?
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Can I remove the ecm totally just to see around better?

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Sure can. Just unplug the battery - which I assume was already unplugged to remove the capacitor.

After putting together the timeline, I realized that you had already done a lot of running on the stand when you got home, so I can't imagine that running the sled anymore will cause problems. I guess that I was being overly careful, but as you can see I wasn't quite following properly until I put it together.
 

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That page in the manual shows a pierced capacitor around that inspection shield.... Mine has that Pierce in the inspection plate .... Manual says that's bad.... Daag what's your thoughts on this?
e8200292ee792f6bcd669212b023b2d6.jpg


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I see no signs of perforation or leakage.

The Black&White picture in the manual doesn't show an obvious perforation until you expand the pdf to 400% and then you can see the center of the inspection shied is slightly darker from what appears the center to have caved. It also shows signs of the leakage on the top of the protector cap. Yours show none of those things. Also this was the effect of connecting the capacitor with reverse polarity which yours didn't have this problem. So I have no reason to believe the capacitor on your sled is perforated.
 

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Did you happen to find the P1562 fault code in Tech Tips? It is worth the read since this is the code your sled is giving. It is found on pdf page 995 of the 2012 manual.

We got lucky with this manual to include the Troubleshooting Tech Tips that begin at p.979 and end at p.1012. It has invaluable information in troubleshooting and even corrections to Shop Manual errors such as shown on p.985 . I have been given trouble online by one of the members for saying the manuals have errors, so I am just mentioning it as an example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Daag.... Timeline looks about right...

Ok we are officially moving on from the capacitor being at fault....

I haven't got to the manual readings yet.... Just got done with kids homework and dinner.. after they go to bed it will be Doo manual and Miller time

It would be nice if Doo had a diagnostic step by step chart like car manufacturers have .

That's where my head is spinning... What to do next. I will check all connections at ecm for burning, remove ecm and check other connectors for the same ....

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"It would be nice if Doo had a diagnostic step by step chart like car manufacturers have ."

It would, which is why I focused on getting you up to speed with the Troubleshooting Tech Tips that show a step by step to troubleshoot the P1562 fault code that you are getting. After the kids are done their homework the P1562 will be yours ;)

This is a quick outline of key parts in the Shop Manual. It is probably a lot more than you can digest this evening, so I recommend to focus on the P1562 troubleshooting. Make sure to cover pages 995, 998, 999 and 1006 for the 60 Vdc System Voltage troubleshooting.

2013 Shop Manual

Location of Grounds

Engine Ground
- Engine Removal and Installation section
- Shown in picture for RH Front Engine Support Screw.
- Ground wire goes from Engine Support Screw to Engine Mount Screw.
PDF page 44 (2013 Shop Manual)
PDF page 56 (2012 Shop Manual)

Main Harness Ground location
- Not shown in previous manuals.
- Rear of the battery, along the top of the RH Stirrup Assembly.
PDF page 287

2012 Shop Manual

Location of Grounds

Engine Ground
- Engine Removal and Installation section
- Shown in picture for RH Front Engine Support Screw.
- Ground wire goes from engine support screw to engine mount screw.
PDF page 56

Main Harness Ground location
- Not shown in 2012 Shop Manual
- For 2013+ it is rear of the battery, along the top of the RH Stirrup Assembly.
PDF page 287 (2013 Shop Manual)

The ECM section is hidden in the Direct Fuel System section.

ECM Self Diagnostic LEDs
PDF page 353

ECM Connector Identification
PDF page 353, 354

ECM Power Supply Troubleshooting
PDF page 355
30 Vdc min when cranking over the engine.
Then it goes back to the Charging System page 448.

ECM Removal
PDF page 356, 357, 358

Capacitor Troubleshooting
PDF page 457

Charging System Voltage
(Engine May Not Start)
PDF page 448

Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Testing
PDF page 452

Voltage Regulator/Rectifier Ground Circuit Testing
PDF page 454

Plugs and Splices
PDF page 802
This one is priceless to find all the plugs on your sled.

P1562 fault code
PDF page 995

55/60 Vdc System Voltage Fault Codes
PDF page 995, 998, 999, 1006

800RE Starting Sequence Explained
PDF page 1008

800RE No Start Troubleshooting
PDF page 1009, 1010

ETEC ECM and Injector Troubleshooting
PDF page 1012

ETEC Troubleshooting
PDF page 1343 to 1345
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Man those tech tips are really nice.... Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow night... Just like what daag said, check all connectors and check for pinched or chaffed wires..... Thanks Daag.... Will post back tomorrow night....

Gonna print some of this manual out tomorrow so I can read it on paper.

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It's the odor near the capacitor that worries me. Since the capacitor was ruled out, I think that leaves the odor near the ECM.

I think that figuring out what the next step will be taxing, so I updated the Timeline on page 3 and added a To Do list. I honestly don't expect it to be followed as written, but it should serve as a reference that you can corroborate with the manual and your thoughts with what you have done thus far.

The 2012 Shop Manual Guide on page 4 has also been updated. This particular manual with tech tips, troubleshooting guides, and other stuff is huge.

I have a feeling that you are very close and will have found the culprit by tomorrow night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Daag the to do list is awesome, that is all stuff that i feel is easy to do.

Kinda off topic but i see you have a mach z, My uncle has an 07 x package that he had rebuilt this year for a back up sled, and hes thinking about getting rid of it as hes going to buy a new one and his 18 850 will be our back up sled. What are these things worth, im guessing there is only a select crowd that you can sell them too. Sorry for the off topic question and thanks a bunch for doing that to do list, wish you were closer id buy u a beer or 12 :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Just an update..... I followed my nose... The Ecm was not burnt smelling so I continued my way around following wirer and didn't find anything but the closer I got to the stator the stronger the smell. Took the recoil off and the smell was even stronger.... I tried to use my three jaw puller to remove flywheel but it wouldn't budge. .. gonna get a steering wheel puller tomorrow so I can pull the fly wheel off..... I did find a piece of melted plastic on the flywheel.. I'll post the pics... Pretty sure I found the culprit.

One question... Does the big plastic shroud the recoil cover bolts too have to come off to remove stator?
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Is it possible that lots of coolant getting on the stator ruined it? The reason I ask because the ride before the stator went out I overheated bc of my snow flap and all the coolant came out the cap and went everywhere. Wondering if that could have shorted the stator out

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eTec stators as a general rule, suck. Just buy a cheapo SPI a third of the price as new and performs pretty much as well as the Doo piece
 
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