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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sled is a 2014 800 xrs

As the title states, i was riding yesterday (beautiful day to say the least)and after about 100 miles i started smelling this strange odor. i started hearing a noise at about the same time, sounds like a dry bearing type of noise coming from in front of me or a tad on the PTO side. Still not convinced its related to my issue but thought maybe i would throw that out there. about 2-300 foot from a stop sign my check engine light came on with and displayed rev limited so i coasted to the stop sign, went to take off the sled beeped several times and i shut her down. I get off the sled and light smoke is coming from right panel, so i open it and all i smell is burning electrical. Discussed with my group what the plan was, i fired it back up and the gauge cluster was dead foor about 2-3 seconds then the needled did their gauge sweep real slowly the digital rpm came up on the dash it idled really low for a few seconds then quit. fast forward 30-40 minutes for truck and trailer i started it back up and it idled great for a few minutes and drove it in the trailer, still smelling burning electrical.

Today i get it home and in garage, i fire it up idle it for 10 minutes while checking battery voltage and its 13.6 at idle, 14.8 roughly holding steady throttle, then held the throttle at about 2000 rpms for a minute, let it idle for another 10, put it on the lift and run it at 35 mph for a few minutes, did this three times, bring back to idle and it starts to die, when its starting to die battery voltage is down to 12.16 then will pick back up to low 13s with throttle input. I am leaning towards stator but when i put my hose near that blue capacitor, it smells awful. Looking for some opinions on what you may think.

I have a 2012 shop manual, will information regarding the electrical system be the same from 12 to 14?

sorry for the long winded post
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Is the capacitor something that normally goes bad? Trying to understand the job of the capacitor has in the electrical system... The manual is kind of confusing. Going to get capacitor off tonight and ohm it out.

Thanks again

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So from reading the manual a little at lunch time, it looks like that capacitor supply's power to injector coils and fuel pump at lower engine speeds, say idling..... I also was reading the chart about beeps.... I had 4 beeps, CEL, and rev limit, according to that chart that's a problem in the 55/60 volt system which sounds like it's the capacitor side of things? Daag can you confirm this?

Thanks guys.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok thanks daag.... So I just went and tried to get codes from it and it didn't work, does the sled have to be running in order to get the codes? So if I can't get codes my plan of attack is take capacitor out and visually look and then smell it? Should I check the capacitor charge hold test after that? Plan on working on it a little tonight.... Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So can someone clarify something, the one part of the stator charges the capacitor, the 2nd part is primary voltage for the cluster and other things and the third is for accessories? If this is true, is it possible to check the voltage at the capacitor with engine running. Kind of like checking to see if an alternator is charging a battery. You would be looking for 50-60 volts...... I will not try this until someone else with more experience chimes in.....

FWIW, it just doesn't make since that the stator is bad because of the smoke that comes from the sled..... My headlights, heated plug , 12v plug heated grips all work fine....

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just got out of garage..... I started it up pulled the code only the p1562.... I had my meter on it the entire time, with a little throttle voltage was up around 14.7 consistently. I pulled the capacitor out and gave it a smell and it wasn't that bad, but when I smell the plastic that the capacitor sits in, that stinks like burnt. I checked the inspection shield and it looks pierced to me... The manual says if it's pierced then to replace it. I will post a pic of it and hope someone chimes in... Thanks guys have a good night.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I am using the 2012 manual. That's the only one I have..... I took the cover off the capacitor, I'll post those pics.... Daag I haven't read all your posts from last night yet, got up super late this morning and had to get the kids off to school.... I really appreciate your help thus far, this is why I love this site. Take care

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Surprised you were unable to pinpoint source of smell/smoke when you opened panel. Pull start or E start or both?
Both.... I removed starter the other day because the spring was weak and starter wasn't working ... Gear kept contacting clutch gear so I removed it before this ride.

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I charged the capacitor with a car battery and it seems to hold the voltage very well, actually has held from 12.44 to 11.53 for well over an hour..... Used a test light to discharge it and it performed just like daags test..

Looks like I will be putting it back in and checking what the voltage is at at the capacitor when turning the engine over

Daag can u confirm that that is my next step.... I'm thinking I don't have a bad capacitor

Does that read piece looked pierced at all? It's definitely pointed up in the middle.

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
I meant that checking voltage at the capacitor while pulling the motor over with kill switch shut off to see if I had my 60 volts from the stator to the capacitor. Maybe trying it a few times. I could always put my meter on min/max to catch the highest voltage

I ordered a new used capacitor off eBay capacitor has 791 miles on it.... if it doesn't change anything I have a spare.

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
That page in the manual shows a pierced capacitor around that inspection shield.... Mine has that Pierce in the inspection plate .... Manual says that's bad.... Daag what's your thoughts on this?
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Daag.... Timeline looks about right...

Ok we are officially moving on from the capacitor being at fault....

I haven't got to the manual readings yet.... Just got done with kids homework and dinner.. after they go to bed it will be Doo manual and Miller time

It would be nice if Doo had a diagnostic step by step chart like car manufacturers have .

That's where my head is spinning... What to do next. I will check all connections at ecm for burning, remove ecm and check other connectors for the same ....

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Man those tech tips are really nice.... Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow night... Just like what daag said, check all connectors and check for pinched or chaffed wires..... Thanks Daag.... Will post back tomorrow night....

Gonna print some of this manual out tomorrow so I can read it on paper.

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