[freeon]

2002 mxz.off the line rpm goes to 8000 drops to 7000 then goes back up to 7500 should'n it stay at 8000

 

[MXZ_nut]

thats what happens when it upshifts............if it just stayed at 8000, thats all the faster you could go

 

[freeon]

thats what happens when it upshifts............if it just stayed at 8000, thats all the faster you could go

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my buddy has a mxz800 teamx and i tought he told me that his stays at 8000.but even if it drops when it shifts shouldn it go back up to 8000 and not 7500

 

[MXZ_nut]

not necessarily(sp), depending on what kind of snow your riding on will change that, for instance hard pack vs powder

 

[freeon]

not necessarily(sp), depending on what kind of snow your riding on will change that, for instance hard pack vs powder

[snapback]302021[/snapback]​

been riding on hard pack all day and never seen more than 7500.even on long straight roads and keeping full throtle for miles at a time.the reason i'm asking is because my buddy with his completly stock teamx mxz800 beats me every time at drag racing and the other day i was runing full throtle on a straight road and he passed me like i was stop.and i had mine serviced the other day and the guy told me that the previous owner had put a clutch kit.

 

[mudweiser]

I was playing with the clutching on my 01 700 MXZ. Stock off the loine it would hit 8,000 and stay there. I lowered the secondary preload and it would hit 8,000 then drop to 7,600 and slowly climb towards 8,000 again. Hole shot was ok but accelaration was slow. It also did not backshift as fast out of the corners. I brought the preload above 17lbs and it slowly got better. Once set up the way it should be it would hit peg 8,000 and stay there. Acceleration improved a lot and top end was back.

You should be back up at 8,000 or what ever the top rpm should be at. My unproffesional opinion would be either your secondary spring took a set. Or you need to replace your belt and or do a clutch alignment. It sounds to me like its shifting to fast. But, thats just my .02!

 

[freeon]

I was playing with the clutching on my 01 700 MXZ. Stock off the loine it would hit 8,000 and stay there. I lowered the secondary preload and it would hit 8,000 then drop to 7,600 and slowly climb towards 8,000 again. Hole shot was ok but accelaration was slow. It also did not backshift as fast out of the corners. I brought the preload above 17lbs and it slowly got better. Once set up the way it should be it would hit peg 8,000 and stay there. Acceleration improved a lot and top end was back.

You should be back up at 8,000 or what ever the top rpm should be at. My unproffesional opinion would be either your secondary spring took a set. Or you need to replace your belt and or do a clutch alignment. It sounds to me like its shifting to fast. But, thats just my .02!

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could a cam that is too agressive in the secondary clutch cause that

 

[pockets]

Yes. You either need to increase the preload, or go to a helix with a shallower angle. The secondary settings in increase of preload go B1, C6, A6, B6, C5, A5, B5, C4, A4, B4.

 

[Craze1cars]

You should always have a flat shift. If your motor makes max HP at 8,000, then your tach should be parked right at 8,000 through the entire shift range while at WOT. If it's moving around and droping/climbing, or if you can actually feel it shift, you're not taking advantage anywhere near the power your engine can produce. Did it have a flatter shift when new? If yes, this is a classic sign of wearing springs and secondary cam shoes. The worn springs collape too easily and cause the clutches to shift out too early, causing dip in RPMs. Band-aiding it by increasing secondary preload may improve things a little, but at the cost of excessive clutch heat, which also robs power and eats belts. If you have 3,000 miles or more on it and haven't had the clutches opened yet, it's time for maintenance. Buy 2 new springs and new shoes. While you're at it, inspect everything else but it's doubtful anything else will be wrong. Costs all of about $60 in parts and should restore you back to OEM shift quality. If you didn't like the OEM shift quality when it was new, then buy a clutch kit from Cudney or Goodwin or someone like that.

And if your only problem is that you can't get you max past 7,500, then turn your clickers up a couple notches. Also make sure your RAVE valves are moving freely, these can cost you about 400 rpms if they clog up. Also check the rest of your drivetrain bearings and track alignment/tension.