Skid plate and wide skies won't make much of a difference. More floatation, but the track will just spin. Choices are, new track, new track and skid (longer), or new machine.

New Track - Larger paddles and possibly studding it up can make a difference. Friend had an MXZ with 120", 1.5" paddles and he had it studded up. He was shooting up mountains and going through deep snow like crazy.

New Track and Skid - Adapting a longer track and skid is an option if you can find them cheap. Takes a lot of work and some fabrication.

 

I'd be willing to do a track, I don't want to mod the skid, at that point I'd cut my losses and buy a new sled. It's a 13 XRS with 1000 miles so it's still new to me. Can you ask your buddy what track and what skiis he's running, I'd be willing to copy someone else's setup if it's proven.

 

I like my Backcountry X 1.75", It did a ton better than the 1.25 that was on my sled. For skis I have ds2's and I really like them also. I don't think I could ever ride a sled with 5.7 pilots off trail again.

 

I went to a 1.5 ripsaw 2 and c&a xcs crossover skis for my 16 xrs with a 129" skid. Should be night and day better than stock. I'm not worried at all about getting stuck anymore, all matters how you ride it.

 

I'd go with these guys suggestions. my buddies MXZ was a few years ago (pre-rev), I'm sure they moved onto making different tracks.

 

Go with a 1.75", maybe even a 2" and gear accordingly. I put a Pilot DS ski kit (cheap), extrovert drivers, and the 1.75" on my MachZ, and it was a big improvement. I believe I went down 2 teeth on the top gear (or the equivalent of that in ratio).

 

Skid is great for when you hit something but when you get stuck all it is....is a paperweight! You wouldn't believe how much snow gets clogged up between the skid and the sled.....

X2 on a different track...and then experience is what keeps you floating! Got a buddy who loves his short track....and he is a big guy....6'4", 290 lbs....and he rocks in the deep stuff!

But he does have 1.75" track I believe.

 

I think the size of the lugs are going to depend on what you can fit on your sled. To get that information, we'll need the year/model of your sled and hopefully someone has experience with it.

 

I'd be willing to do a track, I don't want to mod the skid, at that point I'd cut my losses and buy a new sled. It's a 13 XRS with 1000 miles so it's still new to me. Can you ask your buddy what track and what skiis he's running, I'd be willing to copy someone else's setup if it's proven.

Go with the 1.75 track. you may want to drop a tooth or 2 on top gear. I run the Talon 1.77 on my 1200 X 129" it hooks up crazy good..

don't bother with skid change. you may even want to do a clutch setup from IBackshift Joey is great at giving you want with a deep lug track. I believe he runs 120" out in the deep stuff. he knows his stuff

and go with the DS2 ski or the 6.9 pilots

 

For all that effort and money, I would sell it and buy a sled designed for what you want to do.

 

On my sled, I have 1.5 Ripsaw 2 and SLP Powder Pro skis. When I take across fields, etc. The skis really shine. They float and turn stupid well. They are a bear to turn on hard pack but they go where pointed.

 

Get in touch with Joe from iBackshift. He's on ths site. He's the evil genius behind DJ clutch kits.. He likes going deep with a relatively short track and has the experience to tell you what will work and what won't.

 

I'll be riding mostly in Maine this year and I'm the only guy in our group riding a 120" track. Last year was ok because we didn't have much snow. The guys I'll be riding with ride on and off trail, I don't want to be getting stuck every 5 minutes and holding them up all day. Is it even worth trying to make this sled better in the deep or should I move on? I'm not opposed to buying a different sled.

For a 120 sled that does 80%+ breaking fresh snow; tuning the rear suspension and selecting the best gear ratio will achieve greater results than wider skis.

Tuning the rear suspension and selecting the best gear ratio is like the icing on the cake. Adding wide skis is the cherry on the icing.

Gearing

If you are going to run your sled in deep snow a lot then have to gear lower than stock 27:45

What is the maximum vehicle speed (amber box) that you are willing to live with? Once you choose the maximum track speed you are willing to live with, then select that top gear and chain to achieve that speed.

Track

I added a Camso 9256C. 120 x 15 x 2 Back Country X2, 2.86 Pitch, Single ply, Fully Clipped

With a 21:45 I was still able to pull off 90mph on GPS on a railroad bed.

The vibration is fairly low.

Suspension tuning

Have a read of this article

https://www.ibackshift.com/article/-194.asp#backenddeeper

and

https://www.ibackshift.com/article/-194.asp#carlhandlebar

and this link below to the end of the page

https://www.ibackshift.com/article/-194.asp#gearlowertemps

...but dont pay attention to the torsion spring numbers

Two options to make rear suspension work better in snow

Option 1

Call Ian up at http://www.monsterperf.com/

and tell Ian you want a softer "low speed" valve setup for your rear/rear shock like Dynamo Joe's sled. I thought I was bottoming out my shocks (center and rear) and Ian told me I was probably "hydraulic locking" them. Another suspension tuner told me the same thing. Both Ian and Teddy listening to my facts, them asking me questions about what I was feeling and also that I wanted the suspension to move better breaking fresh snow.

I got Ian to do up both center and rear shocks to make them softer and wow...the only time I bottom out is me actually "bottoming out". But my sled is like driving a surfboard in snow. Anyone who gets on my sled says "thats like driving a surfboard"

Option 2

MXZX / TNT / MXZ-XRS / BLIZZARD x 120 torsion springs (RIGHT) 503193159, (LEFT)503193158

Next softer for above 4 models (RIGHT)503192080, (LEFT)503192081

In the final analysis the 120 being short, augers deep in the snow because of short rail length, low flotation. You have to make the rear suspension work in better to absorb fresh snow and this will lower the skis distance off the snow - because the rear suspension is doing something now (its actually working for breaking fresh). The handling for carving and doing wrong foot forward will be much easier - less driver input, less arm pump.

Call Ian to find out what he can do to make your rear suspension work better in snow by valving the center and rear shocks.

Conclusion rear suspension - If you are not going to go the shock valve route then change out to the next softer rear torsion springs.

And a deadly clutch kit...mwaa ha ha haaa...

 

In 2014~15 I made the decision to keep my 120 and buy a summit in the future. (I have a 850 x 154 x 3" blackie now)

Because I made that decision to keep this 120, doubting I'll ever sell it, I started to convert it into a "mini-me-summit"

2013 Freeride 154 handlebar assembly

Skinz post forward mod.

This is bar none the best mod ive ever done to a skidoo - right up there with a clutch kit. I can't even explain the words to describe the joy I get from running this steering post in how I can handle this sled now.

....my saying for the last 2 seasons is "i'll never own another skidoo again without the skinz post forward mod" God I love it. One of the best d@mn things I ever did to a sled. Its like steering a seadoo on snow. My driver input to hang on to the handlebars is very little. I really use the handlebars to just balance the sled with countersteer.

4.5 inches forward than stock on my 2013 sled.

With the ability to lean the riser back 1~2 degrees, when you let off throttle and skis land or are running down rough hardpack there is "Zero" bump steer.....nothing. No feedback comes into my arms because the riser is tilted back just a tad.

And doing wrong foot forward on a sidehill is so miiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiint

RASii x 35.5" narrow front suspension

JDRMXDOO running boards

https://www.jmpowderboards.com/ski-doo-xm.html

I also put an 872 Trygstad in it. HAHAHA

Finally a custom 120 x 3" paddle (made from a damaged 174 x 3" track)

 

See what I mean? Thanks Joe.

 

X2. Thanks for all the info Joe!!

 

I think the size of the lugs are going to depend on what you can fit on your sled. To get that information, we'll need the year/model of your sled and hopefully someone has experience with it.

 

Sorry, been away for a couple days. Thank you all for the great info and suggestions! My sled is a 2013 XRS 120" 1200 miles at most. With all things considered, if I'm to put $2000-3000 into this sled would I be better off selling it and buying a Renegade XRS or Summit? My XRS is worth near $8000 based on what I'm seeing (if it's less, it's less I'm reasonable). $8000+2000=10,000... do I mod sled or buy new? I'm on the fence.... Decisions..Decisions..Decesions...

 

$575 for 2" track (tracks usa)
$45 for 21 top gear (Venom)
$90 for 102P chain (Venom)
$58 for RH torsion spring (skidoo)
$58 for LH torsion spring (skidoo)
$140 for 4.7"~6.3" adjustable riser (skidoo)
$120 for post forward mod (C3 powesports) (way cheaper than SkinZ)

$310 so00o deadly of a clutch kit (iBackshift)

$1396 USD (not incl tax(if any), ship) (far cry from $2~3 grand there bud. I found you all the lowest prices on the internet)

Option on rear springs - talk to Ian at monsterperformance and the shock work will be around the same price as the value for them torsion springs (and not have to buy any)

Option - Bret Rasmussen Schooled video combo pack $149 worth its weight in gold. You thought you can handle that 120?...nope! Not until you plow through the first 4 videos of Schooled. You'll be shocked at what you can do with that 120 x 2" sled after you start practicing Bret's techniques.

You dial these parts in for an XP-XS, 800 x 120 x 1.75 or 2.0 and you'll be showen' em'......................how to do it downtown. :Snowroller3:

Selling the sled?....It'll be a keeper and your friends with longtracks will have "ree-spect" haha

....and in the future if you were to sell the sled and wanted to do your best recoup some $, every component listed can be parted out and sold. Patience is always rewarded.

Here is another thing too - that "Recipe" I give you is worth $1600 bux in knowledge because I did all the work for you. From buying, trying and driving all kinds of different parts outside the scope of that list. Anyone reading that list can go out and buy those parts with confidence that your 120 is going to be deadly in snow (for a 120) from that point on. I will put my head on the chopping block for it.

 

this is with the original wide front end. Old pic. Post forward and XC2" track. No fancy front end. Dint even have the shocks done.

Just carve that sucker - Belly pan and skis ain't doing too much there eh buddy...

A little Chris Burandt "pin n wiggle it" and im out of this good stuck.

 

Joey makes some seriously good points here, thanks for taking the time to lay all that info out for people to view!

I had a 12 xrs and found it in stock form back in 2012 to be adequte off trail with a 1.75 but nothing worth of the crazy technical, super deep. My 12 freeride 146 was the off trail sled of choice. The stock suspension in the xrs is too stiff for powder riding and proper transfer, balance, etc. Being a coupled suspension (vs tmotion, sc5m non coupled) it is at a disadvantage there. a stub legged 120 will want to trench regardless and the coupled suspension helps fuel that issue. running on #1 on your blocks seems to help, #4 if you have some serious traction that day (wheelies look cool but dont add traction)

clutching changes, gearing changes, suspension work, everything Joey talked about WILL MAKE THE XRS A BLAST for flat lander off trail riders.

if you were to ditch the xrs 120, get a 146 xm, skip over the 137 if you want to create a off trail machine still worthy of trail riding. I have a 137,146 and 154 and to me the 146 is more fun on the trail, 154 for pure steep off trail and the 137 FEELS like a 120 in my mind...........

if you have a solid 9500 in value in front of you between the sled and money to spend thats a tough one. there are many 146 XM out there, 2014 lets say, for 8500. clean low mile machines. search for the nicest one and drive to get it!

So in the end, you can make the 120 rip and have a blast, i know many who have and impressed the crap out of me. it WILL get stuck, you ALWAYS get stuck off trail. if you do not, it isnt really off trail.

or get a 146 and have a 1.75 track on that, trust me, i owned a few, it does well on and off trail

dont trail ride anything taller than 2" on a consistent basis, the lugs fold over and really become a 1.75 in the end for grip!

 

$575 for 2" track (tracks usa)
$45 for 21 top gear (Venom)
$90 for 102P chain (Venom)
$58 for RH torsion spring (skidoo)
$58 for LH torsion spring (skidoo)
$140 for 4.7"~6.3" adjustable riser (skidoo)
$120 for post forward mod (C3 powesports) (way cheaper than SkinZ)
$310 so00o deadly of a clutch kit (iBackshift)

$1396 USD (not incl tax(if any), ship) (far cry from $2~3 grand there bud. I found you all the lowest prices on the internet)

Option on rear springs - talk to Ian at monsterperformance and the shock work will be around the same price as the value for them torsion springs (and not have to buy any)
Option - Bret Rasmussen Schooled video combo pack $149 worth its weight in gold. You thought you can handle that 120?...nope! Not until you plow through the first 4 videos of Schooled. You'll be shocked at what you can do with that 120 x 2" sled after you start practicing Bret's techniques.

You dial these parts in for an XP-XS, 800 x 120 x 1.75 or 2.0 and you'll be showen' em'......................how to do it downtown. :Snowroller3:
Selling the sled?....It'll be a keeper and your friends with longtracks will have "ree-spect" haha

....and in the future if you were to sell the sled and wanted to do your best recoup some $, every component listed can be parted out and sold. Patience is always rewarded.

Here is another thing too - that "Recipe" I give you is worth $1600 bux in knowledge because I did all the work for you. From buying, trying and driving all kinds of different parts outside the scope of that list. Anyone reading that list can go out and buy those parts with confidence that your 120 is going to be deadly in snow (for a 120) from that point on. I will put my head on the chopping block for it.

 

bump

 

I put a ripsaw 1.5" on mine. Nowadays I'd probably go to a 1.75". I geared down 2 teeth on the top gear. Makes a difference.

2008 500ss (600)

 

Hey, Joe. Just wondering how that Backcountry track is on packed/trails. I'm working in the same direction you went with my '08 TNT, since I prefer to ride fresh stuff out in the swampland. In NW MN, though we end up riding a lot of hard, drifted-in snow or trails to get to the soft stuff. Also, I do end up doing at least 1 good, long trail ride each year. I want the added off-trail ability, without too much of a drastic loss to on-trail ability, or risking track damage from riding trails. Thoughts?