[doitonadoo]

I am fed up with my sled not starting. I am troubleshooting the electrical system by following the shop manual, but have not found the problem yet. I think I can make more off of the thing on E-bay by selling the parts.

 

[700GSE]

Slow down... What's the problem, and gimme the details by PM... I'll getcha back on the snow.

 

[boondocker01]

The staters go bad on them alot and it takes the MPEM with it , replace the triggers also

 

[800GTSE]

I am fed up with my sled not starting. I am troubleshooting the electrical system by following the shop manual, but have not found the problem yet. I think I can make more off of the thing on E-bay by selling the parts.

[snapback]700783[/snapback]​

Yes, hold on for a second... Did you check your fuses? If you haven't, there are four located above the right footrest. The closest to the tunnel, is a 5Amp fuse, which controls your DESS. If it is blown, the sled won't start. If it is corroded, at all, you may be getting intermittent problems with it. Pull it out and inspect it. If there is corrosion, clean the fuse contacts, and the socket contacts with emery cloth, then apply some silicon electrical grease to the fuse and re-install it.

Incidentally, the other 3 fuses are as follows: Beside the 5A mentioned above, is a 20Amp, which controls the air compressor for the shock. Beside that is another 20Amp, which controls the instruments, and all the other electricals, including helmet heat, handle and thumb heat, headlight and taillights. The last is a 30
Amp, which controls the starter motor circuit. If you pull them out, and they are corroded at all, clean them, and the socket before you re-install them. The 20Amp fuses will create enough heat by arcing, to melt the holder. I know this, because it all happened to me.

If you ever flood your sled, hold the throttle open when you crank it. Not only does this give the engine more air, but when the throttle is open past 1/4, it de-actives the cold start enrichment circuit of the DPM.

Hope this helps.