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I have a 2013 MXZ-SPORT CARB....7800 miles, IMMACULATE condition.

brought it in for clutch rebuild, carb boots, and crank seal....$1500 cost. When the tech saw that the machine had 7800 miles, he recommended just going with a short block crate motor for $3100

I plan on keeping the sled for another 3 years...what would you guys advise? opinions? what kind of mileage can I expect out of the motor if its maintained well and not "beat on"....I rarely take it over 70mph....

Thanks!

Kevin in NH
 

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If you're getting a complete engine rebuid, it could be that much. Unless you're having problems, those engines are known to go 10,000+ miles. Clutches and carb boots are good preventative maintenance though.
 

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I have a 2013 MXZ-SPORT CARB....7800 miles, IMMACULATE condition.

brought it in for clutch rebuild, carb boots, and crank seal....$1500 cost. When the tech saw that the machine had 7800 miles, he recommended just going with a short block crate motor for $3100

I plan on keeping the sled for another 3 years...what would you guys advise? opinions? what kind of mileage can I expect out of the motor if its maintained well and not "beat on"....I rarely take it over 70mph....

Thanks!

Kevin in NH
If you have a crank seal gone? You may also have a bearing failure going on that side. The debris from bearing failure will take out the seal.

7800mile. i would consider the short block approach. If you are going to keep it. Keep you invoices. It will help for resale down the road knowing the motor was fresh at 7800 miles. Good Luck.
 
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1500? Way over priced repair and a new short block is not going to make a difference to resale on a sled (600 carb) that will likely have 10 thou miles on it by the time he's done with it.

Get some more quotes. Definitely do the carb boots yourself, all it is removing some boots and Popping in the new ones.

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Also if you got 7800 miles without doing anything to the motor, you have done extremely good. Its a ticking time bomb now.
 

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There are a lot of confusing replies above! First off, why did they change the crank seal? If nothing has happened to this engine 7800 miles is not a lot for it. I am pretty sure these 600 carb motors are good for 15k miles or more most of the time.
 

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There are a lot of confusing replies above! First off, why did they change the crank seal? If nothing has happened to this engine 7800 miles is not a lot for it. I am pretty sure these 600 carb motors are good for 15k miles or more most of the time.
I can't speak for the Original Poster about what he perceives as confusing, but he did say that the crank seal replaced. It is a solid guess that it was the pto side only.

Note the $1,500 on the clutch rebuild, carb boots, and crank seal. By the time he's done with a new engine the cost will be so high that he will have realized how much of his hard earned money could have covered a good down payment on a brand new sled. It is the most common mistake in repairing old sleds. It makes sense for those who work on their sleds and seek affordable parts replacements from part-outs like the ignition coil. The engine itself is a whole other matter. Those who get their high mileage old sleds worked on by the dealer are better off financially putting their money on newer stuff and giving/selling away the old stuff to those who can't afford the new and typically do very low mileage.
 

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1) That's a 10,000 mile motor unless abused.

2) At most you should (could) tear it down, regrease both ends of the crank and install fresh crank seals, and 2 new pistons and rings in her. Use SPI slugs to save a few bucks.

3) That's an easy motor to work on. You might want to get a manual and have a go yourself. If you take your time it's not hard.

Just a thought...
 

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I have a 2013 MXZ-SPORT CARB....7800 miles, IMMACULATE condition.

brought it in for clutch rebuild, carb boots, and crank seal....$1500 cost. When the tech saw that the machine had 7800 miles, he recommended just going with a short block crate motor for $3100

I plan on keeping the sled for another 3 years...what would you guys advise? opinions? what kind of mileage can I expect out of the motor if its maintained well and not "beat on"....I rarely take it over 70mph....

Thanks!

Kevin in NH

Pretty sure they bent you over on that repair bill!?! Unless the clutches were complete junk??? I would just run it till she dies. Then look for something new. $3100 can get a pretty decent sled around here where I live.
 

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If the OP bought the sled in the '13 MY season he basically puts 1100 miles on per year. 3 more years of use will put him at 11,100 miles. If he drives like he says he does, rarely running beyond 70 mph his sled should have no issues . I've seen sleds with that engine hit 20,000 miles when treated well. My advice to the OP is just to run it as normal.

Now if they are replacing the PTO crank seal for an issue (generally slinging grease due to a bad seal lip), and they are splitting the halves to do it rather than pushing it in to the case then I would recommend re greasing both sets of crank end bearings and doing a Top End while the motor was on the bench. As I said before SPI pistons and rings are an economical choice for this motor, but be sure the tech uses the BRP dogleg circlips in the pistons instead of the ones that come with the pistons.
 

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Sounds like a huge up sale tactic. Just like a new car salesman trying to sell a car to an old lady that has 100k on her Cadillac. A new caddy is only $70k, so that's probably the best route for her instead of a tune up and maintenance items. (Sarcasm implied)

For only twice the money plus install (or maybe that's included), you can get a new motor.

Resale isn't going to make a difference in price in my opinion. I just put mine together with a low mileage crank and case (800cc) for $1100 with new cylinders, Pistons, and gasket set.

I have no connection with the dealer, nor have I heard of them. Bottom line is if you feel it is the best route to go, that is entirely your call. If you are not able or don't want to do the work yourself, you may not think it's a bad deal. You could also shop around for garage mechanics, many of which are on here and willing to do the job, presumably much cheaper.
 

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There is different Part numbers for New engine Vs Reman.

Maybe there is a mix up there. Some dealers have a hard time finding the Reman part number.

At one point i was buying new 800HO short blocks for $2700.00 CDN. The reed bolt bosses on the cylinders were not even tapped out. It was all new parts. One hell of a good deal vs a reman everything.
 
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If you put in a short block you are still going to have to rebuild the clutch and replace the carb boots. I don't believe you explained why you are replacing the crank seal, I am guessing that it is seeping grease which they will do if they the engine gets hot. I have had a bunch of these engines apart most of the time the isoflex grease on the crank bearings look ok. If I was in your shoes I would check the compression, if its good I would turn the engine upside down and take the cases apart. If the grease in the outside bearings is not all washed out I would dig out what grease you can with a plastic tool, put in some new isoflex with new crank seals and put it back together. The dealer likely wont want anything to do with this type of repair but a small private shop should. If I could not do this stuff myself I would not be snowmobiling. If I had to replace pistons I would go with oem unless I was was on a really tight budget.
 

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^^2.
My 16 sport weeped a little grease last yr. I'm going to run it this year (wife & kids), maybe 1-1.5kmi, then pull it, address both seals, and probably rings, maybe pistons/whatever it needs.

My compression is good. I'm at around 7500 miles. If it weren't for the seal weeping, I hadn't planned to touch it until 10kmi.

For what it's worth, MCB has a stage 2 kit, rebuilt crank, new pistons and rings for less than $900.

We'll probably run this sled as wife/kid/buddy/spare for another 3-4 years.

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