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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just ordered myself 1.5 Gallons of RedLine SuperCool Powersports coolant from concentrate, was planning on flushing all the old coolant out with 5 gallons of purified Reverse Osmosis and Deionized water.

has anyone done a complete flush out before? my plan was to hook up an aquarium pump to one of the hoses, remove the Tstat and flush out all the old coolant, add and mix the new coolant in with the remaining water. anyone see an issue with this?
 

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Is the redline compatible with "normal" glycol coolant? Do you have a problem that requires you to completely flush the system?

Just my $.02..I use regular pre-mixed antifreeze that I drain and refill.. Pulling out hoses/t-start-etc, it's quite a mess and not necessary if the system was fine before.

I do run some water wetter in my machine. It get's hot rather quickly being a shorty and no auxilary fan/radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was getting some higher then normal heat temps and on more roads i had to stop a few times due to running 7 bars on my 2016 Renegade this past winter that i wasn't getting the year before, but i had also done a bit of clutch work over the summer

I tested the coolant and was at -26 C so i decided to do a flush. I've read some good literature on supercool, so since I was planning on a change, I decided to just got ahead and just get the redline coolant since i love redline products, it's also compatible with ethylene glycol but i just wanted to get a fresh start, so I decided i would just do a flush.


I got home from work and drained the coolant, filled it up with water and ran the sled, boy is there still alot of coolant left in the engine. I put pure water in the tank and filled the lines and the pump quickly cycled alot of coolant back into the reservoir, I'm going to do another. Dump of coolant and another water fill and then elevate the front and and let it cycle until it times out, then do another dump out.

I'm not sure how much actual coolant drained out of the exchanger so we'll see what happens next
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do yourselves a favor, don't try and lift up the front end of your sleds from the front bumper when trying to elevate it to burp and fill the coolant, I just ripped the **** out of and melted the lower nose panel of my sled. Twisted the bumper a bit too but I was able to straighten it.

Amateur mistake 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Nope, it's an ethylene glycol formula with different additives. It's just a very faint green/yellow instead of pink/ orange as compared to all other ethylene glycol mixes. So I'm not sure what else they put in there besides water wetter

Like water wetter, it's probably some kind of surfactant that allows the water to not boil and break surface tension when bubbling.

But really it was the same cost as any other coolant so what difference does it make, I just didn't have to add any water wetter too it so there wasn't an extra $20 spent on that
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so i completed the flush, the annoying part is having to cycle the sled to get the coolant out of the engine completely, waiting for it to cool down to drain it each time

after draining it normally theres still about 1/2 to 3/4 gallons of coolant in the engine. i must have fined with Deionized reverse osmosis water 5 times to get the water to come out mainly clear. with all the fresh water in there i just drained about 3/4 of a gallon and added 3/4 gallon of concentrated redline coolant and used a refractometer to get a proper -37C rating or a 50/50 mix

i've read alot of dirt bike racers running redline coolant to help keep from over heating. if it works for them with their rads getting covered in caked on dirt, it should help on a sled when going over low snow or down a longer stretch of road that has little to no snow being thrown up
 
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