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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been attempting to figure out the best coolant to run in my 04 500ss. More so I am trying to figure out what will provide the best coolant function for my motor. After a lot of research, thermal dynamics included, I still don't know what way to go.

My thought: Ice H20 carries more heat than pure Glycol, but takes longer to cool. Glycol heats and cools faster, but I'm not sure if I can cool it fast enough in the coolers to make it worth it... Go with Glycol and ice scratchers, the scratchers making coolers more efficient, the differential between hot and cold greater=motor cooler. Thermal dynamics is hard. Has anyone tested tempts before and after 50/50 and pure glycol?

Any thoughts otherwise?
 

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The only reason to look for something different than 50/50 is if you have overheating issues. I can't think you would with the 500SS as most 600's run cool almost always.
 

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50/50 mixture of coolant and deionized water.
Verify pressure cap works and a sealed system.
Thermostat delete and a proper length snow flap.
Temperature gauge so you can be proactive when temps start to climb.
This should be all you need in all but the very worst conditions, scratchers will help with those.
No fancy coolant or additive is going to make up for a lack of cooling media (snow).
 

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50/50 for the best cooling, or a slight variation in ratio for more water if you local temperature permits it. Water is the best fluid to cool an engine.
 

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50/50 for the best cooling, or a slight variation in ratio for more water if you local temperature permits it. Water is the best fluid to cool an engine.
When you own beavertails everything helps

I got 25.2 sq inches more cooling area out of my coolers by removing the oem protectors when I putt the relocation kits in

witch is like a 5 x 5 inch box lol
 

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When you own beavertails everything helps

I got 25.2 sq inches more cooling area out of my coolers by removing the oem protectors when I putt the relocation kits in

witch is like a 5 x 5 inch box lol
i hear ya. Mike had one until a couple of years ago. I got to ride it in 40F and couldn't believe how fast it would heat up in the tight twisties. Fortunately he had a digital coolant sensor so I could see how fast the coolant pump needed to turn to get better cooling. In a tight trail I had no choice but to give it short bursts, but on a long stretch I could see at 6400-6500 rpm it would stop rising and anything above 6500 rpm it would begin to drop. At different rpm below 6500 I would stop and see the rads dripping with water, so it was getting cooling from the heat exchangers. The faster I went the more snow would be thrown against the coolers, but also the more power to cool. So coolant flow through the t-stat was one of its weakest point.

When the 2007 800R came out BRP made a point to mention they had increased the flow of the coolant pump for better cooling like the 1K. Later on BRP made higher flowing t-stat for several engines including the 800RE. Then the 850RE came along with an even larger flowing t-stat.

Of course the heat exchangers also saw improvements in surface area, so I have no trouble believing the 25.2 sq inches and the added water really did make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pure water will give the best cooling. Not exactly sure what your trying to accomplish though.
My thinking was that reducing heat in the motor means less expansion in the cylinders, higher compression, and a better preforming motor in general... Is this too simplified?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
50/50 mixture of coolant and deionized water.
Verify pressure cap works and a sealed system.
Thermostat delete and a proper length snow flap.
Temperature gauge so you can be proactive when temps start to climb.
This should be all you need in all but the very worst conditions, scratchers will help with those.
No fancy coolant or additive is going to make up for a lack of cooling media (snow).
I kind of figured the marketing was getting in the way of reality.

When you say sealed system, you just mean all gaskets and fittings are sealed?

Thanks for the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i hear ya. Mike had one until a couple of years ago. I got to ride it in 40F and couldn't believe how fast it would heat up in the tight twisties. Fortunately he had a digital coolant sensor so I could see how fast the coolant pump needed to turn to get better cooling. In a tight trail I had no choice but to give it short bursts, but on a long stretch I could see at 6400-6500 rpm it would stop rising and anything above 6500 rpm it would begin to drop. At different rpm below 6500 I would stop and see the rads dripping with water, so it was getting cooling from the heat exchangers. The faster I went the more snow would be thrown against the coolers, but also the more power to cool. So coolant flow through the t-stat was one of its weakest point.

When the 2007 800R came out BRP made a point to mention they had increased the flow of the coolant pump for better cooling like the 1K. Later on BRP made higher flowing t-stat for several engines including the 800RE. Then the 850RE came along with an even larger flowing t-stat.

Of course the heat exchangers also saw improvements in surface area, so I have no trouble believing the 25.2 sq inches and the added water really did make a difference.
Surface area meaning more heat diffusion...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't overthink it; go 50/50 cool and and water, it's not like nobody has tried that combo before.
Yea probably a good call, but overthinking is fun and I almost would rather work on my sled at this point than ride it!
 

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My thinking was that reducing heat in the motor means less expansion in the cylinders, higher compression, and a better preforming motor in general... Is this too simplified?
Somewhat contradicting, HC = more power = more heat. Can't create power without having heat. It's a byproduct of power. I like where youre going with this though.
 
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