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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok here is my situation

I'm running about 8600 RPM's now which is were I should be running for the pipes that I have.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get more than 117MPH out of the pig.

The only internals of the clutch I know are that it has 286 ramps in primary, and the stock sedonary helix which i believe is 47 something?

Ok here is the catch and weird part, it is on setting TRA clicker #5, has been like that since I bought it.

I did the old magic marker primary trick, and its completly rubbing it off clean untill about an 8th inch from the top.

Why would someone run clicker 5, and if I drop it down to clicker 3, then im going to lose RPM's and throw my pipes way off.

Any ideas? Comments? Opinions?

Im running 26/43 gearing btw

So what im going to do is order clutch tools and rip the primary off and actually see what i have for pinweight and for a spring. Im going to throw 295 ramps back in it, but what would u guys suggest as far as everything else goes?
 

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809UpYourAss said:
Ok here is my situation

I'm running about 8600 RPM's now which is were I should be running for the pipes that I have.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get more than 117MPH out of the pig.

The only internals of the clutch I know are that it has 286 ramps in primary, and the stock sedonary helix which i believe is 47 something?

Ok here is the catch and weird part, it is on setting TRA clicker #5, has been like that since I bought it.

I did the old magic marker primary trick, and its completly rubbing it off clean untill about an 8th inch from the top.

Why would someone run clicker 5, and if I drop it down to clicker 3, then im going to lose RPM's and throw my pipes way off.

Any ideas? Comments? Opinions?

Im running 26/43 gearing btw

So what im going to do is order clutch tools and rip the primary off and actually see what i have for pinweight and for a spring. Im going to throw 295 ramps back in it, but what would u guys suggest as far as everything else goes?
[snapback]268814[/snapback]​
Dont know too much about it but seems like your pins are
too heavy.,have to change them or put stronger spring.also
youre using mxz gears,thats gonna drop your rpm also,in
#5 you should be overreving maybe 8200.
 

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809UpYourAss said:
Ok here is my situation

I'm running about 8600 RPM's now which is were I should be running for the pipes that I have.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get more than 117MPH out of the pig.

The only internals of the clutch I know are that it has 286 ramps in primary, and the stock sedonary helix which i believe is 47 something?

Ok here is the catch and weird part, it is on setting TRA clicker #5, has been like that since I bought it.

I did the old magic marker primary trick, and its completly rubbing it off clean untill about an 8th inch from the top.

Why would someone run clicker 5, and if I drop it down to clicker 3, then im going to lose RPM's and throw my pipes way off.

Any ideas? Comments? Opinions?

Im running 26/43 gearing btw

So what im going to do is order clutch tools and rip the primary off and actually see what i have for pinweight and for a spring. Im going to throw 295 ramps back in it, but what would u guys suggest as far as everything else goes?
[snapback]268814[/snapback]​
What do you have for secondary? RER or NON RER? I would shoot for 8300-8400 rpm's as the big triple Doo's run better just a tad under peak power due to the torque dropping off. Try this. 195 ramps, 230/380 primary Doo spring or a 230/350, 1mm oversize rollers, clickers on 2. Total cost will be about $90 I know there was a guy named John Breedon that had great sucess with the DP pipes and just like the Mach 809's with stock pipes he had the best results buy clutching 200-300 " under" peak HP.

I just started using the 1mm rollers this year and due to WARM temps and soft snow I have only limited testing so far. It held the ski's in the air past 90 mph and pulled like a freight train so i am encouraged..

Also remember getting into 120's is not as easy as some people think..

Keep us posted.

Evel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Evel said:
809UpYourAss said:
Ok here is my situation

I'm running about 8600 RPM's now which is were I should be running for the pipes that I have.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get more than 117MPH out of the pig.

The only internals of the clutch I know are that it has 286 ramps in primary, and the stock sedonary helix which i believe is 47 something?

Ok here is the catch and weird part, it is on setting TRA clicker #5, has been like that since I bought it.

I did the old magic marker primary trick, and its completly rubbing it off clean untill about an 8th inch from the top.

Why would someone run clicker 5, and if I drop it down to clicker 3, then im going to lose RPM's and throw my pipes way off.

Any ideas? Comments? Opinions?

Im running 26/43 gearing btw

So what im going to do is order clutch tools and rip the primary off and actually see what i have for pinweight and for a spring. Im going to throw 295 ramps back in it, but what would u guys suggest as far as everything else goes?
[snapback]268814[/snapback]​
What do you have for secondary? RER or NON RER? I would shot for 8300-8400 rpm's as the big triple Doo's run better just a tad under peak power due to the torque dropping off. Try this. 195 ramps, 230/380 primary Doo spring or a 230/350, 1mm oversize rollers, clickers on 2. Total cost will be about $90 I know there was a guy named John Breedon that had great sucess with the DP pipes and just like the Mach 809's with stock pipes he had the best results buy clutching 200-300 " under" peak HP.

I just started using the 1mm rollers this year and due to WARM temps and soft snow I have only limited testing so far. It held the ski's in the air past 90 mph and pulled like a freight train so i am encouraged..

Also remember getting into 120's is not as easy as some people think..

Keep us posted.

Evel
[snapback]268881[/snapback]​
Thanks Evel,
Im about to order all the clutch tools because i want to start playing on my own and not depending on other guys to help me out clutching. figured it cant be that hard to pull apart clutches once you have done it a few times. figured it will be worth my time to learn.
 

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809UpYourAss said:
Evel said:
809UpYourAss said:
Ok here is my situation

I'm running about 8600 RPM's now which is were I should be running for the pipes that I have.

My problem is that I cannot seem to get more than 117MPH out of the pig.

The only internals of the clutch I know are that it has 286 ramps in primary, and the stock sedonary helix which i believe is 47 something?

Ok here is the catch and weird part, it is on setting TRA clicker #5, has been like that since I bought it.

I did the old magic marker primary trick, and its completly rubbing it off clean untill about an 8th inch from the top.

Why would someone run clicker 5, and if I drop it down to clicker 3, then im going to lose RPM's and throw my pipes way off.

Any ideas? Comments? Opinions?

Im running 26/43 gearing btw

So what im going to do is order clutch tools and rip the primary off and actually see what i have for pinweight and for a spring. Im going to throw 295 ramps back in it, but what would u guys suggest as far as everything else goes?
[snapback]268814[/snapback]​
What do you have for secondary? RER or NON RER? I would shot for 8300-8400 rpm's as the big triple Doo's run better just a tad under peak power due to the torque dropping off. Try this. 195 ramps, 230/380 primary Doo spring or a 230/350, 1mm oversize rollers, clickers on 2. Total cost will be about $90 I know there was a guy named John Breedon that had great sucess with the DP pipes and just like the Mach 809's with stock pipes he had the best results buy clutching 200-300 " under" peak HP.

I just started using the 1mm rollers this year and due to WARM temps and soft snow I have only limited testing so far. It held the ski's in the air past 90 mph and pulled like a freight train so i am encouraged..

Also remember getting into 120's is not as easy as some people think..

Keep us posted.

Evel
[snapback]268881[/snapback]​
Thanks Evel,
Im about to order all the clutch tools because i want to start playing on my own and not depending on other guys to help me out clutching. figured it cant be that hard to pull apart clutches once you have done it a few times. figured it will be worth my time to learn.
[snapback]268953[/snapback]​
 

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809 make sure you get the button holders went to the lake yesterday, ran on glare ice 129.5 no snow 3000 foot 05 mach fastes one ran 128.7 there were 3 of them all around 124/128 rev 800 ho 121/118, 2 of them. f7 128.5 tricked out, rx1ton 126.7, rx1ton turbo
141.9. my sled 97 mach Z.
 

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Thanks Evel,
Im about to order all the clutch tools because i want to start playing on my own and not depending on other guys to help me out clutching. figured it cant be that hard to pull apart clutches once you have done it a few times. figured it will be worth my time to learn.
[snapback]268953[/snapback]​
[/quote]
Yes its worth it to buy tools.. You should disassemble/clean/inspect clutches from time to time anyway.. You need a threaded puller, button holders, and depending on the secondary a type of compression tool. For removing primary spring a threaded rod and big washers will work but they sell a tool for that as well. All the tools I bought are from SD.. figured they would work the best.. How are you aligning your clutches? This is a pretty important part too.. I have a piece of straight stock that i put between secondary then I machined two pieces, one is for distance between clutch sheaves and the other is 'U' shaped and I use it to set the offset. I also have the MBRP torque rod on the left side of motor.. Probably would be better with the dual ones from crank shop but I am not sure if they would fit with stock airbox?

If we stay at cold temps and get some snow around here I should get some more testing time soon with the oversize rollers.

Evel
 
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