Clutching - Clutch - Changing gear ratios

I. N. Quisitivetuner]...I've seen a lot of talk on Doo Talk about gearing down. All I do is trail ride. What do you think about gearing my sled down a little?

Joe writes]...From stock Drive train/clutch calibration - Gearing with lower ratios eventually raises engine rpms at constant speeds.
Gearing with lower ratios enhances (quickens) response between the engine and ground.
Gearing with lower ratios progressively raises engine rpms upon deceleration (engine braking)
Gearing with lower ratios allows more area of the secondary sheave surface to extract heat away from the belt. (Conduction)

Say right now with present "Trail" calibration you travel along at 70 mph/6900 rpms. You gear lower ratio by 2 teeth and now reveal 7200 rpms.
This is nearing the edge of the window of good mileage (due to increased engine rpms) However, there is an rpm where the engine runs better/more efficient.

If you find this rpm or near this rpm; When you have to accelerate you don't have to squish on the throttle to make the sled respond. You'll be able to touch the throttle a bit lighter to feel results from the engine to ground.

Gearing down gives a better link for the engine to track but at what point will the fuel cost go up?
I'm only speaking from experiences that seems can go from stock Drive train/clutch calibration, then at the most, reduce 2 top teeth to: 1]Maintain same top end mph. 2]Enhance acceleration and reveal slight more rpms without really suffering mileage. 3]In heavily loaded conditions, reveal cooler clutch system temperatures (as a whole) ....than a previous exercise with original gear ratio.

I. N. Quisitivetuner]...I'm thinking it could even help by making the drive train more efficient.
Joe writes]...I do agree with helping efficiency, offering more ratios to choose from when operating at cruising speeds. You roll on the throttle and don't have to squish it so much to accelerate. Plus the belt gets to travel across more sheave face surface area. May not seem like much but the belt only travels down the clutch approximately 1.5 inches from 0mph to full overdrive.

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An extreme example:
[Fun testing] I myself have run 19:47 with 9th driver. My 440/800 121" x 1.75" [96 x 2" studs] has 9th anti-ratchet race drivers.
For me it's annoying and dangerous because I get on hard pack, I let off the throttle, and I can lock the track up, putting my sled sideways...just by letting off the gas.
I'll whack the throttle, 8200 then quickly let off the throttle - Decelerating my engine is still cranking 7500 rpms, the sled in a tail slide and if can hook up enough with the picks...nearly put myself over the handlebars.

Now I see a hill. I can stop, look at it and hammer down, I side hill with enhanced throttle control to the point I can push down on my left heel, maintain throttle and side hill when taking my left hand off the handlebar, putting it in the air.

Different for a mountain sled with longer track and the environment you are in, at least there is more snow that is forgiving. When descending with longer tracks, the track can force the engine to run high rpms with no throttle, engine braking is strong - lower gearing, stronger engine brake.

There are guys who run ratios I mention that tach 8100 going up a hill, turn out and descend, the engine rpms can run up to 8100 to do all the braking, nearly no brake handle is applied.

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In the end you have to let the sled tell you what to do. Go for a run with present gear calibration - CHECK MILEAGE.
Change your ratio and next sledding day; perform the same exercise again with new lower ratio - CHECK MILEAGE.
You'll find the spot to where you achieve great mileage, enhanced acceleration, maintaining same peak mph.
.....only you can know; Nobody else knows your sled or how you drive in the environment you are in.
You have to calibrate to your own sled/driver personality.