No, you want roughly the same finish number if your only looking to raise engagement however.....then your also changing up shift by raising engagement......it's a slippery slope...

 

The 130/260 spring has a initial force of 130 which will determine you engagement rpm and the 260 end force for the peak rpms, not taking in the pin weight and such. If you just want to raise(or lower) the initial rpm's figure for every 10# change in force you will raise(or lower ) the rpm's by about 100rpm's. Now if you wanted to keep your peak rpm's the same you would look for a spring with a higher initial force and something that has the same final force like the 160/270 purple/green (which was the closest I could find). It should raise your initial rpm's by 300rpm's and raise your peak by 100rpm's which you may or not have a issue with. You could either adjust your "clicker" to next lower # or adjust your pin weight to maintain your max rpm's.

Sometimes raising your initial force quite a bit will effect the rest of the shift curve which you may have to adjust for too.

If you get into a spring with big changes on either end you'll have to adjust other parts to make it work.

Clear as mud huh........ :rolleyes_old:

-Grover

 

The 130/260 spring has a initial force of 130 which will determine you engagement rpm and the 260 end force for the peak rpms, not taking in the pin weight and such. If you just want to raise(or lower) the initial rpm's figure for every 10# change in force you will raise(or lower ) the rpm's by about 100rpm's. Now if you wanted to keep your peak rpm's the same you would look for a spring with a higher initial force and something that has the same final force like the 160/270 purple/green (which was the closest I could find). It should raise your initial rpm's by 300rpm's and raise your peak by 100rpm's which you may or not have a issue with. You could either adjust your "clicker" to next lower # or adjust your pin weight to maintain your max rpm's.

Sometimes raising your initial force quite a bit will effect the rest of the shift curve which you may have to adjust for too.

If you get into a spring with big changes on either end you'll have to adjust other parts to make it work.

Clear as mud huh........ :rolleyes_old:

-Grover

Ok I found one 160 - 260 purple/green from brp. I understanding what your saying. So the best I can get is 3600 engage without changing anything else

 

Pretty much +/- of it with that spring. Now if you have some adjustable pins you can work with pin weight and different springs.

Have you checked out Joe's website www.ibackshift.com? Alot of info there to all this that may help.

-Grover

 

I hope you can give me an answer for this to. I was told this can be caused by a weak spring. but the ski-doo only has 2000kms on it and like it from day one. had a mechanic take clutch apart and nothing is wrong or worn..

with my mrbp can on, it over revs and hits rev limter i think and drops the rpms and makes like a small backfire with clickers on 5 ... .. NOW with my stock can on and clickers on 5 the ski-doo hits 8100 rpms and stays there. with that all said I put my clickers down on 4 and the rpms is all over the place. It will go up to 8000 drop down to 7500 back up to 7800 back down to 7000 back up to 8000. you get the picture. ( ON clicker 4 the rpms acts like that with stock can and mbrp) can. So, Im gaining extra rpms with this can on cuz I seen 8300 sometimes.

 

Pretty much +/- of it with that spring. Now if you have some adjustable pins you can work with pin weight and different springs.

Have you checked out Joe's website www.ibackshift.com? Alot of info there to all this that may help.

-Grover

I was talking to joe about it and he recommend me a clutch kit but cant fit that in my budget atm.

 

thanks Grover for your help, I really appreciate it!! :biggrin_old:

 

Weak spring will lower your initial/final force of the spring which would lower your rpms on both ends. Sometimes the springs are close to what spec says at that many kms but without checking it in a tester hard to say if its good. Might change it or try that next one if you want to increase your engagment like you wanted plus it will hold a slighty higher rpm's to peak also(feel revier thru shift). You might also want to look into the next stiffer secondary spring, this will hold higher rpms thru shift also but keep your peak rpms because they have the same end force and may help some on the rpm fluctuations.

With your rpms going all over the place like you said you may have to deeper to correct and that would get into Joe's ramps and or helix to get where you want to be..............

Sometimes the rpms fluctuate due to overshifting due to track spin(traction loss) and rpms will fluctuate as you describe also just throwing that out there.

-Grover

 

ok thank you so much, its clear as mud now. Im going to get that spring and see what happens from there. if it don't fix the problem I will be getting joes kit after X-mas.

 

Grover, nice explanation I went through this about 15 years ago.

I changed a lot of primary springs, ramps and helixes to find a secondary spring swap gave me the results I was looking for.

 

yeah i will have to try that after to i suppose. but its fine on clicker 5 and without a can. i will just leave my can off, lol. but it still should be working right on clicker 4 or 3 and just have less max rpms.

 

Glad if I can help out some and have enough springs and other things to know! :rolleyes_old:

Didn't know if you saw this and check out Joe's posts weed out some of the other stuff :wink_old: :

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/643001-clutch-geniuses/

-Grover