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2009 600 etec - I noticed the the outer sheave of my clutch is "loose" moves in & out just a hair and makes metallic sound (rattles). Was checking things out because there seemed to be a knocking noise from either the engine or the clutch. I'm far from an expert but I don't ever remember this in a clutch.

Is this ok and if not what might the issue be?

Thanks in advance.

Jim
 

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There are bushings that have wear limits in the clutches. I would say you have reached the limit. How many miles on them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
About 4,000 miles but... the secondary belt adjuster fell off while riding and did hit the clutch while spinning.

Not very much damage to the clutch at all but corners on the "crown" portion were slightly dinged.

I'm guessing this might have hurt the bushings as well? Or worse?
 

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Sounds like you may just need a rebuild like the other gentlemen said. If nothing else, I would pull it apart and inspect it!
 

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Scuttle Buttin' Solo
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Simple hand tool job but while you're at it get a hold of Chris at C&T Powersports and get the ski doo maintenance rebuild kit and do the entire thing.......he also sells the secondary clutch tools required to do that job or you could have the dealer do it every time you need something like this done........or you could buy the tools and always be able to do it yourself...
 

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Chris at C&T is TOP NOTCH.

I would rebuild the primary. You can do it in a large vise if you are careful, or make a tool with threaded rod. I do it constantly on my RS. The buttons wear out, but I would probably agree that the fiber bushing is toast like mentioned above. Just do it all and be done, wait until you see how much dust is in there... lol.
 

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I agree with the above, just do the entire kit! It made a world of difference on my Gade and I have less miles than you do. Definitely a do-it-yourself job, the larger sheave bushing is a bit of a pain but a little patience and possible an additional set of hands and you are good! I personally just use a threaded rod and a series of washers/nuts to remove the spring cup, mainly because I already had them before. I'm sure the proper tool is a little easier to work with but still pretty easy, none-the-less. The BRP kit is less expensive($120) than C&T's kit, but I'm pretty sure he uses upgraded materials from OEM. So that is a choice you have, but now you are in the know! Best of luck
 

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Scuttle Buttin' Solo
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Do you think it's safe to ride one more time or fix it before something bad happens?
aahhhh whats the worst that can happen if you put it off at this point.........

Primary roller failure, which would lead to roller pin failure, which could lead to arm failure and ultimately seizing of the clutch, not to mention at that point clutch damage..........ya you could wait... if you got money to blow and don't mind inconveniencing the people you ride with into cutting the ride short, and towing you home.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Guys, Whats the torque spec when putting the clutch back on? (2009 600 Etec) Anything like anti sieze or lock tight needed?
 
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