Ski-Doo Snowmobiles Forum banner
41 - 58 of 58 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
Owned 3 sleds now and the water method has worked perfect on every one. Guess I'm just lucky.
 

·
Metalhead
Joined
·
9,090 Posts
My buddy with a 2013 x 154 had a problem with "leakage" doing the water trick using white teflon tape.

Ed, being a plumber had the 4 varying thickness of pipe tape.

He ended up using orange *clicky* Orange, high density & extra thick for natural and LP gases CSA approved

I used orange before and could not get it to stick on the threads so I had to taper it and make sure the tape-taper(point) got into the hole to start to thread on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,020 Posts
Last nite i tried taking the primary off my 13 x and i thought i was gonna break the puller. I had a 21 mm wrench and used a 22mm wrench as a cheater and then pressed down on it with my leg. The puller started bending. I quit and used the water trick and it exploded off of there. I might have overtorqued it last time i put it on.
 

·
I'm not new
Joined
·
25,743 Posts
I did something similar the first time I pulled the clutch off my 800. No cheater bar but I was pushing with a lot of force with my leg. All kinds of stuff moving and flexing. Didn't like it.

Gave the water trick a try. Used the blue teflon tape. Taper is so it feeds in the clutch and then starts to thicken. Didn't take much. Heard a noise and then another 1/4 turn and it came right off. Held the clutch with my hand...didn't even need the holder.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,705 Posts
I intend to change clutches this yr. Can't decide on a pb-80 or a p-85. How many a miles doo you get out of a p-85 before you have to start working on it? Would you be willing to share some setup information? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Ya, I'm not sure how many miles you will get on the P-85.

I have been changing the spring every season, because my son says people doo that, but I never notice any difference.

Last year I put 1,700 miles on the XM with the P-85. I just took the cover off and put in a new Black #3829 140 - 330 lb spring out of a new 2014 RMK (it was free). The Black spring engages at about 3,700 RPM. Last year I ran the Polaris Green/Pink spring and it engages at 4,000 RPM and starts to pull immediately. I'll try the Black and see how I like that one, as I run tall gears and sometimes found the 4,000 RPM engagement would let the sled get out of control too fast.

I run the 10-68 weights.

My stomping ground runs from 3,000 ft to 9,000 ft. and this set up does it all.

I run the stock 40 helix and stock secondary spring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,241 Posts
Thanks, this gives me a starting set up. Sounds like this may be easier than I thought.

I intend to change clutches this yr. Can't decide on a pb-80 or a p-85. How many a miles doo you get out of a p-85 before you have to start working on it? Would you be willing to share some setup information? Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Ya, I'm not sure how many miles you will get on the P-85.
I have been changing the spring every season, because my son says people doo that, but I never notice any difference.
Last year I put 1,700 miles on the XM with the P-85. I just took the cover off and put in a new Black #3829 140 - 330 lb spring out of a new 2014 RMK (it was free). The Black spring engages at about 3,700 RPM. Last year I ran the Polaris Green/Pink spring and it engages at 4,000 RPM and starts to pull immediately. I'll try the Black and see how I like that one, as I run tall gears and sometimes found the 4,000 RPM engagement would let the sled get out of control too fast.
I run the 10-68 weights.
My stomping ground runs from 3,000 ft to 9,000 ft. and this set up does it all.
I run the stock 40 helix and stock secondary spring.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,624 Posts
Someone please explain the Teflon/water method in detail. The regular clutch bolt wrapped with Teflon tape and threaded In?

I had tried that with no success a few times, but maybe there was something I was missing.

I have tried many things over the years with and without success, crank strikes work for the most part, but can be hell on the bearings and mag, as the magnets will break and crank "mysteriously" fails that season.

Regardless of method Now, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt/puller, so you know exactly how much torque your applying. It is good to start with about 130 ft/lb but I have gone to 150 many times and not broken MY Puller,( but don't take my word that yours will take that) however at least you know what force is being applied.

Another I have seen is the freeze/heat method, or freeze/ boiling water method. Dry ice will freeze it, then heat it or boiling water. There can be other methods to "fast freeze" it, that I will not mention due to liability.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,114 Posts
The water trick is the best way to remove a stuck clutch. Take the stock bolt, wrap the threads 10 - 14 times with teflon tape, roll the sled on its side and fill the bolt hole with water. Thread the bolt into the clutch with a standard 3/8" drive socket wrench and watch it POP off.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk

 

·
Metalhead
Joined
·
9,090 Posts
Someone please explain the Teflon/water method in detail. The regular clutch bolt wrapped with Teflon tape and threaded In?

I had tried that with no success a few times, but maybe there was something I was missing.
Explained here in deceptively named video "clutch maintenance"

In the video you'll see I used the orange thicker tape

White
Pink, heavy duty superior Density & thickness
Yellow, superior density And thickness CSA for gas use
Orange, high density & extra thick for natural and LP gases

Orange is thicker tape....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Someone please explain the Teflon/water method in detail. The regular clutch bolt wrapped with Teflon tape and threaded In?

I had tried that with no success a few times, but maybe there was something I was missing.

I have tried many things over the years with and without success, crank strikes work for the most part, but can be hell on the bearings and mag, as the magnets will break and crank "mysteriously" fails that season.

Regardless of method Now, I ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten the bolt/puller, so you know exactly how much torque your applying. It is good to start with about 130 ft/lb but I have gone to 150 many times and not broken MY Puller,( but don't take my word that yours will take that) however at least you know what force is being applied.

Another I have seen is the freeze/heat method, or freeze/ boiling water method. Dry ice will freeze it, then heat it or boiling water. There can be other methods to "fast freeze" it, that I will not mention due to liability.
This is how I see it, if I'm not correct I'm sure someone will let me know. Not to SCALE.....5 min sketch..
 

Attachments

·
I'm not new
Joined
·
25,743 Posts
Make sure you taper the teflon tape also. One wrap at the end to get it started in the clutch and then thicker so it gradually builds a good seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Nice kindergarten drawing! However I do like how the water looks.
Could have used, Catia, Mastercam or SolidEgde but thought the Grade 2 draft would connect with more members.....

Now if Doo would get off their ass and get my sled in I'd give it a try, maybe leaving the Yamaha camp wasn't such a good idea...
 
41 - 58 of 58 Posts
Top