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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i know its posted somewhere i just cant find the link

does anyone have the PRIMARY and SECONDARY clutch bolt torque specs

Thanks,

Turbo89
 

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turbo89 said:
i know its posted somewhere i just cant find the link

does anyone have the PRIMARY and SECONDARY clutch bolt torque specs

Thanks,

Turbo89
[snapback]690422[/snapback]​
Primary is 89 ft lbs but I cant find a listing for secondary.... I just tightened mine by feel.
 

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gummy said:
turbo89 said:
i know its posted somewhere i just cant find the link

does anyone have the PRIMARY and SECONDARY clutch bolt torque specs

Thanks,

Turbo89
[snapback]690422[/snapback]​
Primary is 89 ft lbs but I cant find a listing for secondary.... I just tightened mine by feel.
[snapback]690437[/snapback]​
I have tq'd mine to 89 and its really hard to get back off. Afraid of bending puller. End up having to hit the end of puller with a hammer to get the clutch to pop.

I am going to back it off to 75 like I do on my race sled.
 

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If I recall correctly there are 2 different specs in the shop book for this. I torque mine to 75 lbs. Everyone please inspect their primary clutch bolts carefully as I am aware of 2 sleds that had the clutch bolt break and needed a new crank as they could not get it out.

Spike
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SPIKE said:
If I recall correctly there are 2 different specs in the shop book for this. I torque mine to 75 lbs. Everyone please inspect their primary clutch bolts carefully as I am aware of 2 sleds that had the clutch bolt break and needed a new crank as they could not get it out.

Spike
[snapback]690611[/snapback]​
Secondary annyone ??????
 

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We have always used 65 lbs for drive clutch - however I never even check anymore.

If you use the higher numbers and don't take your clutch off regularly they will be very difficult to get off.

The rear clutch only needs to be 11lbs
 

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I used to go with 89 but it was crazy trying to pop off the clutch with the puller,I swear I felt my puller twist.I use 80 and it is alot better,I find it pops off much easier when it's warm after a run, as compared to cold.I also know of a Mach that had the clutch bolt snap as well.I may go lower to 75.
 

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SPIKE said:
If I recall correctly there are 2 different specs in the shop book for this. I torque mine to 75 lbs. Everyone please inspect their primary clutch bolts carefully as I am aware of 2 sleds that had the clutch bolt break and needed a new crank as they could not get it out.

Spike
[snapback]690611[/snapback]​
Spike, I have seen many bolts break. What happen there is people taking off clutches when warm and tightning the same. The bolt threads actually stretch and then won't come out. You keep turning til they break. Best thing is to let clutches cool before taking out the bolt.
 

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guys..

I will tell you right now,BE CAREFUL!....its a nightmare and cranks are ALL backordered!......

DONT EVER TORQUE OVER 70lbs!.....Ive talked to most who say 60 is where you want to....the 89 of old say wont work!...

DO NOT REMOVE WHEN HOT EITHER!....I was told there are over 26 broken bolts in ontario alone...IF you have a OLD bolt around shop,use it!..these new bolts have temper issues!

40 bucks
for bolts in canada,and you can bet installing a new bolt is smart if you remove clutch several times!.....well worth the 40....

I would think some oil on threads of bolt has to help,as the bolt threads GALL up into crank and FUSE together...be careful!

 

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Actually when you torque a bolt, any bolt you are tightening it to the thread stretch of the specific bolt, the only thing that will gaul a bolt into a thread is over torquing the bolt it stretches the threads and changes the thread speed of the bolt and then when you try to remove the bolt because the threads are streched it will not thread out because now the thread speed of the bolt is different than the thread speed of the crank and then you break the bolt because it is softer than the crank. Spike had said that he knew of 2 bolts that broke and they couldn't be removed, the only reason is that those trying to get the bolt out don't know or don't have the resources to get them out. As for getting a broken bolt out of the crank end there is no such thing as it can't be removed, it can be laser cut out and not affect the crank threads and create no heat on the crank getting it out. One more note and that is the torque spec changes with the grade of a bolt and did you know that if you oil a bolt first then you put less torque tightening it than if you torque it dry. Also the torque spec on a 14mm grade 8 bolt is 90 ft lbs. -- Bill
 
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