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I have a 05 600SDI with a cudney clutch kit in it. I was always impressed with the performance of this kit, but the belt and clutches were always smoking hot and there was a TON of belt dust. The inside red panel was alway black with dust. I called Bill last year about it and he said the clutches needed to be aligned.
Anyway, after about 2000 more miles and a broken belt, I decided to do it myself in preparation for a radar run. Click here to see results. After seeing some topics on here about how to do it, I decide to get at it. CLUTCH ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE

Results...

I have my specs at:
x = 37mm
y = 38.5mm
z = 19 mm

NO MORE BELT DUST. I cannot believe the difference it has made in the level of dust under the cover. It is clean as a whip after 300 hard miles.

COOLER. The clutches have gone from way to hot to touch, to a point where you can hold your hand on them indefinately.

I was running with another 600SDI, and after a 7 mile river run at WOT, his clutches were searing hot and mine you could hold you hands on.
Belt life should now be way better, no doubt I can get well over 2000 miles out of a belt now

This procedure is VERY easy to do, 1/2 hour. I had to take out 1 1mm bushing to achieve these results. I cannot believe the difference 1mm makes, but it is very significant.

BTW on the snow packed river on a warm day (0 C, 32 F) we were running neck and neck and saw 156 kph (97.5mph) on the GPS. He had a short track 1" lug, I have a 136"x16"x1.25" track, and we were the same speed.
SET-UP IS KEY.

On a cold day I guarantee my 600 gade will radar over 100mph no problem. Based on speedo readings I have gotten compared to GPS or radar, I expect this sled will do 105mph is optimum conditions with me (240 lbs) on it. Not to shabby.

These things will rock, you just have to set them up. Clutching is PARAMOUNT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One thing I forgot to add was that I cut the plastic clutch cover to look like the 03's. Even with it cut, the clutches were smoking hot, removing the 1mm shim seemed to make all the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Click on link that says "clutch alignment procedure" in my first post, then scroll down to the last post on that thread.
 

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Sueperdave,

Stupid question, but I assume the shim you are talking about is one from behind the secondary clutch?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes it is. Mine had 3 in total, 1 - 1mm, and 2 - 1.5mm shims.
 

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sueperdave said:
Yes it is. Mine had 3 in total, 1 - 1mm, and 2 - 1.5mm shims.
[snapback]307740[/snapback]​
I pulled my secondary, talk about belt dust!!! after carving my way through the dust (600miles total on sled)

I have 3 washers 1 thin and 2 thick....I removed the thin one...will this possibly take care of the problem?

What is the torque for clutch bolt?
 

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Out of all the REVs we checked about 8 or 9, everyone of them was off. Just did another one last week and it made the same improvements listed above.

Why can't Ski-Doo send them out correct from the factory?

Oh yea, I do not trust my dealer to do it either.
 

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sueperdave said:
I have a 05 600SDI with a cudney clutch kit in it. I was always impressed with the performance of this kit, but the belt and clutches were always smoking hot and there was a TON of belt dust. The inside red panel was alway black with dust. I called Bill last year about it and he said the clutches needed to be aligned.
Anyway, after about 2000 more miles and a broken belt, I decided to do it myself in preparation for a radar run. Click here to see results. After seeing some topics on here about how to do it, I decide to get at it. CLUTCH ALIGNMENT PROCEDURE

Results...

I have my specs at:
x = 37mm
y = 38.5mm
z = 19 mm

NO MORE BELT DUST. I cannot believe the difference it has made in the level of dust under the cover. It is clean as a whip after 300 hard miles.

COOLER. The clutches have gone from way to hot to touch, to a point where you can hold your hand on them indefinately.

I was running with another 600SDI, and after a 7 mile river run at WOT, his clutches were searing hot and mine you could hold you hands on.
Belt life should now be way better, no doubt I can get well over 2000 miles out of a belt now

This procedure is VERY easy to do, 1/2 hour. I had to take out 1 1mm bushing to achieve these results. I cannot believe the difference 1mm makes, but it is very significant.

BTW on the snow packed river on a warm day (0 C, 32 F) we were running neck and neck and saw 156 kph (97.5mph) on the GPS. He had a short track 1" lug, I have a 136"x16"x1.25" track, and we were the same speed.
SET-UP IS KEY.

On a cold day I guarantee my 600 gade will radar over 100mph no problem. Based on speedo readings I have gotten compared to GPS or radar, I expect this sled will do 105mph is optimum conditions with me (240 lbs) on it. Not to shabby.

These things will rock, you just have to set them up. Clutching is PARAMOUNT.
[snapback]307286[/snapback]​
This is why I make a clutch spacer and allow the secondary to float on the splined shaft. As the clutches go through their motions the floating secondary allows the clutches to automatically keep themselves aligned. Under load especially.....

Heres the link to the clutch spacer and floating the secondary...

http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php?sh...&st=0&p=245325&
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I really do like the idea of floating secondary, but my clutches are running very cool right now so I might leave them the way they are.

If it's not broke, don't fix it.
If it's not broke, keep fixing.

I am not sure which rule to follow
 

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On the instruction thread, it says to count the 3/8" bar in the offset measurement. Well, since 3/8" = 9.525 mm, is Ski Doo using a 9.5 mm bar/tool for their measurement? Doing the math on explantations, where is the additional 2.5 mm coming from?
 

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newsled said:
On the instruction thread, it says to count the 3/8" bar in the offset measurement. Well, since 3/8" = 9.525 mm, is Ski Doo using a 9.5 mm bar/tool for their measurement? Doing the math on explantations, where is the additional 2.5 mm coming from?
[snapback]321546[/snapback]​
You have lost me here.
 

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ALL REV W/Formula VSA, HPV 27 VSA = (not for 440 REVs)
X = 37mm Being "X" measurment. measuring from the back of primary to outside edge of bar. (So including thickness of bar)

measuring form the front edge of the primary to the outside edge of the bar.(So including thickness of bar) Being measurment "Y". Now Y-X should = 1.5mm or 38.5mm total. (sorry about that )
Ex. 37mm (X) - 38.5mm (Y) = 1.5 Alignment Correct
So I guess what I am saying is that the Ski Doo alignment bar that they specify as tool #......., is 9.5mm thick?
 

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Paper Boy
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newsled said:
ALL REV W/Formula VSA, HPV 27 VSA = (not for 440 REVs)
X = 37mm Being "X" measurment. measuring from the back of primary to outside edge of bar. (So including thickness of bar)

measuring form the front edge of the primary to the outside edge of the bar.(So including thickness of bar) Being measurment "Y". Now Y-X should = 1.5mm or 38.5mm total. (sorry about that )
Ex. 37mm (X) - 38.5mm (Y) = 1.5 Alignment Correct
So I guess what I am saying is that the Ski Doo alignment bar that they specify as tool #......., is 9.5mm thick?
[snapback]321602[/snapback]​
Yes, But if you read some more on that post you will see that the thichness of the bar does not matter. I do use a 3/8" bar.
 

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I aligned my clutches. They were scorching hot, and now I can hold my hand on them forever. I took one of the spacers out behind the secondary, and loosened up the motor mounts, cranked down the torque limiter rod, and tightened the mounts back up. I'm now within spec and runs nice and cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
 
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