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Hey, stay with me on this one, it gets confusing.

I have a 447 bolted to a Citation 4500 motor mount with an RRS clutch from a Citation 4500 Electric start and the whole set up is in a Skandic 377R.
The clutch has a starter ring gear but the mount is from a non electric start

The clearance between the clutch/ring gear and the mount is tight (2-3mm). When I turn the engine/clutch by hand it does not run but when it runs under load there are sparks flying between the clutch and the mount.
So the questions are:
1. Would there normally be enough lateral play in the crank to pull the clutch into the mount?
2. Would the engine torque be enough to deflect the mount and cause it to rub?
3. Is there a difference between the 337 and 447 crank stub that would allow for some play in the clutch? I can't feel any play using the old grab and shake inspection method, but that's no where near the same force as put on by the engine.

Obvoulsly I'll pull the ring gear off to see if that does the trick but if the mystery play is a sign of a bigger problem here, id rather put the time into getting a few things cleaned up on my other sled for my next ride.

Thanks.
 

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The clearance between the clutch/ring gear and the mount is tight (2-3mm).
I don't remember the 4500E being this close.

Being this close any amount of runout (even within spec) at all may cause it to rub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went out and gave the clutch another good push/shake/wiggle and still couldn't feel any play or get it to rub turning in manually.

So I guess that leaves deflection or runout under load.

OSN, any idea why the ring rear would be so tight to the mount then? Is therenormally a shim/spacer that goes between the crank stub and clutch - I couldnt imaging how the clutch would seat on the crank tapper tight if it was shimmed out?

I hope whoever had the 447 before me didn't do something silly like have the crank machined to fit a clutch that wasn't meant to fit.
 

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No spacers used between crank stub & clutch.

Not sure what is going on but end play (lateral movement) of the crank is determined by locking rings in the centre of the crank beside the 2 centre bearings. I can't see how they could be out of place.

You are using a RRS inner half?

Post a pic maybe?
 

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I went out and gave the clutch another good push/shake/wiggle and still couldn't feel any play or get it to rub turning in manually.

So I guess that leaves deflection or runout under load.

OSN, any idea why the ring rear would be so tight to the mount then? Is therenormally a shim/spacer that goes between the crank stub and clutch - I couldnt imaging how the clutch would seat on the crank tapper tight if it was shimmed out?

I hope whoever had the 447 before me didn't do something silly like have the crank machined to fit a clutch that wasn't meant to fit.
the mounts for a manual and a electric start are the same the ring should not rub something else is going on the only thing right now i can think of is the clutch sitting to much on the shaft. another question is the scratch marks on the ring gear even or intermittent ( meaning is the clutch on straight or is it warped) or is the mount damaged and not mounting straight?
 

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I don't recall if the 447 had the 2 mount holes on the Fan Housing. Is the motor just twisting in the motor mount?
 

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Check to see if the mounts are tighten down good. I had the same problem on my citation 250, the bolts that hold the bracket to the motor were loose. I just took the clutch off and tightened them back down
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I pulled the ring gear off and there is lots of clearance now. I'll post some pics later this week when I get back.

Still don't know why it was rubbing in the first place.
 
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