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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all.

I am working on giving my 4500 to a youngun, a friend of mines boy. To that end I have a issue I am stuck on.

It creeeps. It seems that the secondary is too tight?? It starts and runs fine, But, but it creeps forward at idle. Unless I manually open the secondary allowing the belt to drop down, then it will sit and idle all day, but soon as I run it up and let it come back to idle then the belt is too tight again.

Ive check on other machines (same kind, yr model etc) and found that mine/ours is 11/8 vs the 11/4 between the top of the secondary shives..... I cannot find any info in adjusting these and as the pulley to pulley distance is fixed I seem to be hooped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
 

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This might be a dumb question but is it possible that your idle is too high, causing the primary to start closing slightly? That would be enough to grab the belt a bit and cause the secondary to turn as well. Does the top of the belt sit pretty much flush on the top/outer edge of the secondary? And have you verified the correct belt in there?
 

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Hello all.

I am working on giving my 4500 to a youngun, a friend of mines boy. To that end I have a issue I am stuck on.

It creeeps. It seems that the secondary is too tight?? It starts and runs fine, But, but it creeps forward at idle. Unless I manually open the secondary allowing the belt to drop down, then it will sit and idle all day, but soon as I run it up and let it come back to idle then the belt is too tight again.

Ive check on other machines (same kind, yr model etc) and found that mine/ours is 11/8 vs the 11/4 between the top of the secondary shives..... I cannot find any info in adjusting these and as the pulley to pulley distance is fixed I seem to be hooped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
I'm not familiar with the citation chassis, But I have a big soft spot for kids :).... Add shims to the secondary between the sheaves ? Slide motor back a bit (need to keep it aligned). Or just buy a longer belt. If this is a "power tower" LOL chaincase setup, you could loosen the eyebolt tensioner a little, allow the chaincase to tilt toward the motor a bit.

KJC
 

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Don't think you can move motor or top of pulley jackshaft mount so if belt is too tight making it creep shims between the pulley will be the solution or a longer belt as suggested
 

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the only way the sled will move is the primary is closing to drive the belt the secondary will not move with out the primary closing that being said it's the wrong size belt or the primary is stuck and it's not opening all the way. on those style of clutches you have to lube the shaft on the primary so the sliding half is moving freely or as mentioned by DadGoFaster the idle is to high
 

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If the belt is too tight they will creep ahead and/or make idle low.

Confirm for 100% certainty that you have the correct belt & the sliding half of the drive pulley is in the neutral position at idle.

If it is, then you may need to add a shim(s) between the pulley halves. To install them the pulley needs to be removed and totally dissembled... a big job.

In a jam I have seen where a thin washer was split, then bent open and placed between the sheaves (with them held open) and re-bent closed.

Late model 4500 had 3 adjustment screws and setting the belt deflection is easy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
HEy Thanks everyone for your replies. I should of provided more info apparently.

This problem is recent, it didn't do this, this fall. Belt is the same one as was on when it did not do this.

Belt sits aprox 1/8 above shive halves.

Idle is way low, when belt off or clutch opend manually.

There is no adjustment to move clutch or motor on these sleds.

Lots of space between belt and primary halves at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am thinkin that I need to add shims so ordered two from dealer...... wrong size, too small. And cannot seem to get jack shaft out of chaincase, yes I removed upper gear.... thoughts?? heat?
 

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I am thinkin that I need to add shims so ordered two from dealer...... wrong size, too small. And cannot seem to get jack shaft out of chaincase, yes I removed upper gear.... thoughts?? heat?
The jackshaft should just pull out of the chaincase once the top nut, gear, & washers are removed. The bearing must be stuck on the shoulder of the shaft, as tends to happen with many.

Try to give the end of the shaft a bump with something but be careful not to damage the rather rare bearing.

Some will say the chaincase bearing is pressed on the countershaft, this is NOT true.

It was not designed this way and is supposed to slide easily on and fetch up on the countershaft shoulder. The problem is that the bearing tries to go over the shoulder slightly and gets jammed.

If you can't get it to pull out then you could remove the large "C" clip on the pulley side of the chaincase and the bearing & seal may stay on the countershaft and pull from the chaincase as an assembly.
 
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