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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2017 Renegade x1200 and I’m thinking I should change my rollers and spring in my QRS Secondary. The sled has 7500 miles on it and I have a few big trips coming up and don’t want to have any issues. I have done this on my 2011 but that clutch had the c-clips, this one I think has the push pins. They should push all the way thru, does anyone know what size metal object to use? Also I was thinking it might be a good idea to replacing that bearing or at least grease it as well. Any thoughts or advice would be great.
 

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An 1/8" straight flat end punch will work or a 1/8" roll pin punch. Tap the roll pins out the back they will just make it through. Then take bolts out. When you put the new rollers in and thread the bolt back in threads, take your 1/8" punch to line the hole back up with the bolt before you tap the roll pins back in so you will not ruin them.
 

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What he said.

They are 3mm pins....but 1/8" punch will work (if I remember correctly).

2017's are drilled/reamed thru (or at least both mine are). Unlike older versions with shorter pins.

Some swear by Doodoctor rollers. I think Cudney says to use the stockers with his compression spring.

I just did my bearing at 9100 miles. Seemed ok but, I had the chain case completely apart, and was doing all other bearings too....so did that one as well. When you take the clutch/shaft out, make your own judgement call on the condition of the bearing....or just plan to do it....but you'll need a special puller to remove it....and a hydraulic press helps to install, but not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks to both of you for the quick answers. If I do change the bearing which I think I will, I will cut the old one off and have the dealer press it on. I do have a buddy with a press so I may ask him as well.
 

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I have a 13' with short roll pins and no hole to push them out the back.. What a PITB.. I have a bunch of tiny broken ez outs/reverse bits now
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have watched a few videos and it does look like a pain with the short pins. I believe one of the videos stated that by model year 15’ or 16’ they switched to the thru holes so you could pound them straight out the other side. Should be fairly quick and pain less. Hope fully the bearing is easy as well.
 

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my 14 had the pin hole drilled all the way thru
 

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I have a 2017 Renegade x1200 and I'm thinking I should change my rollers and spring in my QRS Secondary. The sled has 7500 miles on it and I have a few big trips coming up and don't want to have any issues. I have done this on my 2011 but that clutch had the c-clips, this one I think has the push pins. They should push all the way thru, does anyone know what size metal object to use? Also I was thinking it might be a good idea to replacing that bearing or at least grease it as well. Any thoughts or advice would be great.
If bearing is smooth and no excessive play, remove seals, clean old grease out and repack with synthetic grease do the same with your drive axle bearing left side.

Bob
 

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You don't need a press to get that bearing on if you decide to change it.

Put the shaft outside in the cold......or in the freezer for thirty minutes, pre heat the kitchen oven to 150 - 200 degrees F and then shut it off.
Once the oven is at the temp. Put the bearing in there for five minutes. Your wife/girlfriend will appreciate you using tin foil to place the bearing on instead of a cookie sheet. Haha!
Once the shaft is cold and the bearing is warm use ABS pipe and a hammer to drive the bearing into place. It will slip on very easy. I usually put a rubber mat on the concrete floor and the end of the shaft Vertical on the mat. Also, there is a shoulder on the shaft so you know when the bearing is seated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Very good info, couple of questions again. I did this on my 2011 800 etec, but is the torque specs the same? 35 lbft for top gear, 24 lbft for the helix bolts and 15 lbft for the rollers? I was hoping this spring was compression but it is not, I am a little nervous on which holes and how much torque to put on spring. I believe I can see where the old tabs went and I’m fairly certain how much to twist it but I have never done it before. I hate clocking the spring, I did it wrong once on my 2000 Yamaha. Since then I have never really messed with the secondary on any sled.
 

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Grover will know this, maybe he can chime in...............my guess on a stock spring. 16-18 lbs ? If you search on here...there is a good pic of a helix that is marked with pre tension settings. If I can find it i'll post it
 
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I just guess at which holes the sring goes in and end up taking it back off and on again 5x before I get it right.
 
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Grover will know this, maybe he can chime in...............my guess on a stock spring. 16-18 lbs ? If you search on here...there is a good pic of a helix that is marked with pre tension settings. If I can find it i'll post it
Ya in that range, but who runs'em stock? ;)

-grover
 

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So there is a tool to test your torsion spring lbs. C&t powersports sells one. You have to use a fish scale to measure lbs. I used to do it by feel a little less then a 1/4" turn but it depends on your spring tension
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I can see which hole the spring went into in the sheave but I did not pay attention which one it went into in the helix. I’m pretty sure I can tell by the marks and I did mark the helix and sheaves so I know how far to turn it before I compress it all the way. If anyone knows for sure which hole in the helix that would help or a picture. I usually take pictures but I really thought in was a compression spring so I did not. I hate secondary clutches, very confusing for me. Primarys seem simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The beige spring is the stock spring and that’s what I have coming. I just want to know which hole in the helix is the stock hole because I didn’t pay attention when I took it apart because I thought it was compression spring like my 800. Then in the sheave I have three hole, one on a side alone and directly opposite I have two holes right next to each other. The marks kind of give it away but if someone knew the stock settings it would make me feel better. Then all I should have to do is turn it clockwise until my marks line up. I sure wish secondary was easy like the primary.
 

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IMO you're overthinking it. The sled will not burst into flames if the tension is off. What preload are you shooting for? Install the spring where you think it should go and slap it together. Check tension. Adjust as necessary.

Many run more preload than recommended because they like the backshifting. Many run less. In this case the manual is a guideline. No need to sweat it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think you are correct, I will just turn it to put some tension on and tighten it down. Dealer says it turns less than a quarter turn, just needs a small amount of torsion.
 
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