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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after I got this sled it was clear there was moisture in the chain case.. I cleaned it out as good as I could and replaced the oil.. That was about 4 weeks ago. Now it seems like the moisture it returning, and the oil is going milky colored again... What do i need to do to fix this issue and how hard is it??
 

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How milky is it? I know it's common to have the oil be a little milky--condensation builds up. If it's really bad then it sounds like a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's certainly not as bad when i first bought the sled.. It's just a little milky I would say.. I can post a picture later today once i get home and see what ya think.
 

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How milky is it? I know it's common to have the oil be a little milky--condensation builds up. If it's really bad then it sounds like a bearing.
i change my oil every year and never have milky oil this is not normal. You must have a bearing going bad, the seal on your lower bearing must be compromised . the only time i've had milky gear oil was when this bearing goes bad
 

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i change my oil every year and never have milky oil this is not normal. You must have a bearing going bad, the seal on your lower bearing must be compromised . the only time i've had milky gear oil was when this bearing goes bad
I haven't personally had it be milky myself, just from browsing the forums and reading the topics coming up it's seemed to be somewhat common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i change my oil every year and never have milky oil this is not normal. You must have a bearing going bad, the seal on your lower bearing must be compromised . the only time i've had milky gear oil was when this bearing goes bad
Is thee a guide to replace the bearing?
 

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Is thee a guide to replace the bearing?
Probably just a bad seal in the lower portion of the chaincase where the drive axle comes out. I doubt the bearing is bad there, typically since they are lubed by the lub in the chain case they don't fail very often. But the drive shaft seals do fail once in a while.. sometimes you will find the lip spring knocked off on the back side due to a rough drive shaft install.

A seal change is easy.. but you have to pull the cover, chain, sprockets and drive shaft to get at the lower seal.

And of course this seal area is hit by lots of snow and water when the sled is operating..
 

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Is it possible for the lip spring to be repaired/replaced without changing the seal? And with the driveshaft in place?
 

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Is it possible for the lip spring to be repaired/replaced without changing the seal? And with the driveshaft in place?
Well you can pull everything off and leave the back half of the chaincase cover on, but I think it would be really hard to work around the shaft to put that spring back on the seal because you would be working in a small pocket and it is kind of set back in.

It is easy enough to pull the whole chaincase off..- leaving the driveshaft and track in the sled. And you can then change the seal on the work bench or put the spring back on if one knocked it off when installing the driveshaft.

I am thinking you could do the whole thing in 45 minutes or less if you were concentrating and not drinking a couple of beers while doing so.

1. pull the drain, let it drain, 2. pull the two bolts holding the brake caliper and leave it hang out of the way, 3. pull the 4 cover bolts and the cover as the fluid is now drained..4. pull the nut off the jack shaft.. 5. pull the lower bolt holding the bottom sprocket, 6. loosen the chain adjuster, 7 pull the sprockets and chain... 8. then pull the three bolts holding the case to the tunnel watching to see that the shim washers don't come off the bolts so that the case stays aligned when you put it back on. Oh make sure what order the spacers go vs the gears on the shafts pretty hard to mix any thing up though. 9. Now on the bench pull the snap ring that holds the lower bearing if you are not going to replace the seal.. or you can just replace the shaft seal from the back side now on the bench and not even remove the bearing.. but if you just need to put the spring back on the lip, then pull the snap ring and lower bearing. And every thing goes back on in reverse order. Might take you an hour and half or 2 hours if you are not familiar with the process.

Sorry if this is not an exact process as I was kind of doing it from memory.
 

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No worries, that helps. I'm thinking I may have knocked the spring off by mistake. Are the springs typically reusable or should it be replaced? Thanks again!
 

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No worries, that helps. I'm thinking I may have knocked the spring off by mistake. Are the springs typically reusable or should it be replaced? Thanks again!
If you just knocked the spring off, you can put it back on... and you are probably ok,, run your finger around the lip of the seal just to make sure it didn't get cut.. that's if you do it by pulling it all off.. if you manage to do it in the bearing hole with the shaft in there.. (I don't think you can) then you would not be able to check the seal lip.
 

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I guess anything is possible, but it would seem to me that if the seal were bad enough for water or snow getting thrown around to get past it and into the oil, then it would be bad enough to be leaking oil out as well.

If no oil leak, I would tend to lean towards condensation, washing, or melting snow around the dipstick area as a more likely cause.
 

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Step 1: Grab beer. Start to drink. btw but the new bearings in the freezer easier installation.

Step 2: Take off Exhaust canister

Step 3: Now drain the chain case and loosen the bolts on both rear wheels and the tension bolts also have the sled on a stand or lift the rear of sled off the ground

Step 4: Now take off the cover to the case and have the parking brake on. take the cotter pin out of top bolt. then if you have an impact use it to take off the top nut.

Then take out the bottom bolt off the bottom gear.

Take the top gear chain and bottom gear off.

take out tension bolt, tensioner. the spring and both washers.

just take everything out of the case haha.

Step 5: Take off Brake caliper 2 Allen bolts, move it to the side out of the way, no need to take line off it.

Step 6: Now make sure all 3 nuts are off that hold the case on the 3 long bolts. Then grab 2 pry bars and go on each side of case and pry the case off evenly it will take some force.

Step 7: Once you have the case off just turn it around replace the bottom seal, and bearing bottom seal should just come out by hand.

just use a socket on the top seal and hit it out. use a 36 mm deep socket to hit the top seal back in evenly. that worked for me.

hope this helped, i just did this 3 days ago.
 

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I guess anything is possible, but it would seem to me that if the seal were bad enough for water or snow getting thrown around to get past it and into the oil, then it would be bad enough to be leaking oil out as well.

If no oil leak, I would tend to lean towards condensation, washing, or melting snow around the dipstick area as a more likely cause.
Interesting thought. My experience has been just the opposite. I have never had any milky gear lube in my chain case due to condensate in all of my years of sledding, and I started in the late 60's. It has always come from water intrusion through the lower seal.. be it from creek, river or pond crossings and water skipping. maybe sinking a sled and then who knows where it came in. or just a day with a lot of snow melt. And particularly if one has knocked the lip seal spring off.. water can come in.. but usually gear oil due to the heavier viscosity of it doesn't flow out. Not to say I have never cut a seal and had it leak oil because I have had that happen.
 

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Step 1: Grab beer. Start to drink

Step 2: Take off Brake caliper 2 allen bolts, move it to the side

Step 3: Take off Exhast canister

Step 4: Now drain the chaincase and lossen the bolts on both rear wheels and the tension bolts also have the sled on a stand or lift the rear of sled off the ground

Step 5: Now take off the cover to the case and have the parking brake on. take the cotter pin out of top bolt. then if you have an impact use it to take off the top nut.

Then take out the bottom bolt off the bottom gear.

Take the top gear chain and bottom gear off.

take out tension bolt, tensioner. the spring and both washers.

just take everything out of the case haha.

Step 5: Now make sure all 3 bolts are off that hold the case on are off. Then grab 2 prybars and go on ea side of case and pry the case off evenly it will take some force.

Step 6: Once you have the case off just turn it around replace the bottom seal, and bearing bottom seal should just come out by hand.

just use a socket on the top seal and hit it out.

hope this helped, i just did this 3 days ago.
How many beers were had while writing this lol two step 5's and i take the brake caliper off before I have to put the parking brake on!! haha
 
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