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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Wonder if there is not a member here in N Maine that can help out.

In the meantime, checkout the 4-Tek FAQ section. All your issues are discussed in detail there. Craze has a great how-to thread on disassembly of the QRS without pulling the counter shaft. But as mentioned above, pulling the QRS with the shaft as the book calls for is pretty easy. Also a number of threads on the notorious reverse fail.

My guess on the QRS sticking is broken rollers. If you have sound mechanical skills it's not a bad job. Otherwise I might take it to a shop. I'd put a new spring in it at the same time. I think skidoochris can get you both High Torque Rollers and a good spring.

As for the reverse, I would guess the mesh gear is grooved and sticks. By now you've possibly burned out a fuse and/or relay as well. Hopefully the actuator isn't smoked.

As for the manuals, it's not so much about trusting or not trusting the manual. It's more about understanding it's content well enough so if need-be you can come up with your own workaround. There's always more than one way to do something. Good luck.
Thank you, I'm not very good with computers but I'm sure I'll find that 4-tec faq section and see what I can see. I agree it may be the rollers. I'm thinking it came this way from the factory because I noticed this prob the first season but did nothing to fix. Yes i'm a retired mech/tech/eng. so this should be easy enough but I don't want to go in blind tho. The actuator still tries to shift. After 2 yrs of troubleshooting i'm 100% sure the prob is in the chaincase. I just need a little reliable instruction first if I can't find the right manual. I'll keep looking. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yeah it sucks that they don't have their **** together, one would think they would. I wouldn't mind so much if the dealer knew better what they were doing but I guess I can blame BRP for that. I have no means of printing but I'll be happy with just the right info at this point. Info I can count on that is. Thank you! I will check link asap. I hope your right because I thought they changed platform or suspension in 15'
Well that's just my luck. I finally clicked on that link and they have the 600 ace and the 900 ace but not the 1200 for 2014.
 

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Here is the faq section. Your e-reverse issue may very well be related to the QRS issue. If not, dollars to donuts it's the mesh gear. Pretty simple fix. REV-XR / XS FAQ's

Yeah, pretty sure the 2014 manual is what you need. The supplement that the dealer has will have updates to that manual for your sled. I'll dig around. Someone here has to have it. The 09-2010 manual is used by guys with 09-2013 sleds. Works fine. You just have to use your imagination on occasion.

Not much has changed in the QRS or the chain case over the years except for the addition of e-reverse. I'll let you know if I find a manual.

This is all I could find. Good reviews on another forum... Ski-Doo REV-XS / REV-XM / REV-XR 600 800R 900ACE 1200 4-TEC Snowmobile Series (2013-2018)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Here is the faq section. Your e-reverse issue may very well be related to the QRS issue. If not, dollars to donuts it's the mesh gear. Pretty simple fix. REV-XR / XS FAQ's

Yeah, pretty sure the 2014 manual is what you need. The supplement that the dealer has will have updates to that manual for your sled. I'll dig around. Someone here has to have it. The 09-2010 manual is used by guys with 09-2013 sleds. Works fine. You just have to use your imagination on occasion.

Not much has changed in the QRS or the chain case over the years except for the addition of e-reverse. I'll let you know if I find a manual.

This is all I could find. Good reviews on another forum... Ski-Doo REV-XS / REV-XM / REV-XR 600 800R 900ACE 1200 4-TEC Snowmobile Series (2013-2018)
Bingo! That's the manual I need! I already downloaded it for $25. Unfortunately it also shows the wrong upper gear retaining tool but once I get that figured out I should be golden. Thanks sooo much dude!!
 

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No problem. As mentioned you don't need the gear retainer for pulling the QRS with counter shaft on the 1200. The 4 stroke reverse holds the gear in place. It does help a little to slide an M10 bolt or 3/8 drive extension in however. Forget about the special tool.

As I recall you have to insert some sort of drift through the sprocket to bang out the shaft. Once the shaft is out you just leave the drift in place to help with reinstalling the shaft. Easy.
 

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No problem. As mentioned you don't need the gear retainer for pulling the QRS with counter shaft on the 1200. The 4 stroke reverse holds the gear in place. It does help a little to slide an M10 bolt or 3/8 drive extension in however. Forget about the special tool.

As I recall you have to insert some sort of drift through the sprocket to bang out the shaft. Once the shaft is out you just leave the drift in place to help with reinstalling the shaft. Easy.
I've take my secondary/jackshaft out each summer to clean and inspect. I use a 1/4" drive, 6" extension to get the jackshaft out, works perfect. Whatever anyone uses, DON'T go bigger than the bolt that you took out that held the sprocket on. There is a washer in there that if you go to big, you will not get the shaft out as all you will be doing it beating on the washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
No problem. As mentioned you don't need the gear retainer for pulling the QRS with counter shaft on the 1200. The 4 stroke reverse holds the gear in place. It does help a little to slide an M10 bolt or 3/8 drive extension in however. Forget about the special tool.

As I recall you have to insert some sort of drift through the sprocket to bang out the shaft. Once the shaft is out you just leave the drift in place to help with reinstalling the shaft. Easy.
I read in 1 or 2 manuals that I should apply parking brake. I'm guessing just in case I screw up and accidently offset timing?
 

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Whatever anyone uses, DON'T go bigger than the bolt that you took out that held the sprocket on.
Good point here. A 1/4 drive extension is plenty small. The bolt on the gear is 10 mm. A 3/8 drive extension is 9.5 mm. Just right.

I read in 1 or 2 manuals that I should apply parking brake. I'm guessing just in case I screw up and accidently offset timing?
Nah, nothing to do with timing. It just keeps the countershaft and QRS from spinning. I set the brake when I do this job as a precaution from the unknown.

It's also very helpful if you are disassembling the QRS without pulling the countershaft as referenced by Craze in this really good writeup. (From the FAQ section.)

How to remove/reinstall helix/spring in XR secondary...

I don't recommend this procedure for a first timer but some really good information in there and a great example of real world experience vs following the shop manual word for word.
 

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I have a 2017 1200 GT SE and a 2017 900 MXZ TNT.

The part numbers for the paper manuals that cover these sleds are:

for my 1200:

219100731 (2013 XS/XM)

219100811 (2016 1200 specific supplement)

219100842 (2017 XS/XM supplement)

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???)


for my 900:

219100731 (2013 XS/XM)

219100762 (2014 900 ACE supplement)

219100842 (2017 XS/XM supplement)

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???)

Also, I live close to Caribou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I have a 2017 1200 GT SE and a 2017 900 MXZ TNT.

The part numbers for the paper manuals that cover these sleds are:

for my 1200:

219100731 (2013 XS/XM)

219100811 (2016 1200 specific supplement)

219100842 (2017 XS/XM supplement)

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???)


for my 900:

219100731 (2013 XS/XM)

219100762 (2014 900 ACE supplement)

219100842 (2017 XS/XM supplement)

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???)

Also, I live close to Caribou.
Yes I have the supplement for my 2016 1200 G/T but of course it doesn't have a section on the pulley system. I took down the other 3 P/N's you listed for that sled but now I can't find a website with those manuals. I want to preview to find what I need first.
 

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Stuff to keep in mind (and a little nod to SKIDOOCHRIS's point about electronic manuals):
  • Dealers have access to electronic versions of the manuals. I'm pretty sure the dealers are not allowed to distribute these. (I tried nearly 5 years ago, they told me no....but this was a NH dealer, before I relocated to ME from CT.)
  • The dealer's versions of the electronic manuals lend themselves to better/easier/cheaper adaptability to running changes. Paper manuals will never get the updates/revisions. Who knows if aftermarket electronic manuals will get updated. But dealership techs will have access to the latest and greatest info at all times, as long as the info makes into BRP's e-manuals.

219100731 (2013 XS/XM) covers the secondary clutch....but this manual is specifically for XS/XM for 600 e-tec and 800 e-tec. Many things are shared but, expect variations/differences.

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???) is a 2013 supplement that covers the e-drive2. I think this may be the first year for the e-drive2 (but I could be wrong). Also, expect variations/differences.

Google and youtube are your friend. As well as this forum, any available .pdf's, and the paper manuals. I generally consult with all 5 if I'm messing with something I know nothing about.

Regarding the secondary, I seem to remember there was a change to the roll pins that capture the bolts that are the roller's axles. Some pins are longer, and are installed in through holes, and easy to punch out (mine are this design). I don't know when the change happened, but there are older versions that have shorter pins in blind holes. It's a PITA to remove these pins, I would think....if not impossible. And even earlier versions had e-clips (I think).
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Stuff to keep in mind (and a little nod to SKIDOOCHRIS's point about electronic manuals):
  • Dealers have access to electronic versions of the manuals. I'm pretty sure the dealers are not allowed to distribute these. (I tried nearly 5 years ago, they told me no....but this was a NH dealer, before I relocated to ME from CT.)
  • The dealer's versions of the electronic manuals lend themselves to better/easier/cheaper adaptability to running changes. Paper manuals will never get the updates/revisions. Who knows if aftermarket electronic manuals will get updated. But dealership techs will have access to the latest and greatest info at all times, as long as the info makes into BRP's e-manuals.

219100731 (2013 XS/XM) covers the secondary clutch....but this manual is specifically for XS/XM for 600 e-tec and 800 e-tec. Many things are shared but, expect variations/differences.

219100732 (some supplement that covers the eDrive2, and possibly other stuff???) is a 2013 supplement that covers the e-drive2. I think this may be the first year for the e-drive2 (but I could be wrong). Also, expect variations/differences.

Google and youtube are your friend. As well as this forum, any available .pdf's, and the paper manuals. I generally consult with all 5 if I'm messing with something I know nothing about.

Regarding the secondary, I seem to remember there was a change to the roll pins that capture the bolts that are the roller's axles. Some pins are longer, and are installed in through holes, and easy to punch out (mine are this design). I don't know when the change happened, but there are older versions that have shorter pins in blind holes. It's a PITA to remove these pins, I would think....if not impossible. And even earlier versions had e-clips (I think).
I totally agree. I do the same.
So then the only manuals with ski-doo p/n's that may have what i'm looking for are 842 and 732. Any advice on where I can preview?
 

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Nope, no idea. Unless you're "in" with a dealer that already owns the paper manuals, and they're willing to let you look at them.

If there's something very specific you are looking for, I can try and post screen shots....but I haven't been active on here since before the software change/update....so there might be a learning curve, if it's even still possible to access this forum using tapatalk.

How far north are you? I'm very close to Caribou.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Nope, no idea. Unless you're "in" with a dealer that already owns the paper manuals, and they're willing to let you look at them.

If there's something very specific you are looking for, I can try and post screen shots....but I haven't been active on here since before the software change/update....so there might be a learning curve, if it's even still possible to access this forum using tapatalk.

How far north are you? I'm very close to Caribou.
I'm near Houlton so about an hour south of you. Thank you I appreciate it! I'm working on the QRS now but the next fix may be challenging. I have no reverse and i've narrowed it down to the chaincase. So if I get stuck i'll hit you up on that one.
 
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