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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi gang, I broke down just now in the back 40. Have some pictures. I know I blew a bogie wheel. But I'm not sure what I need to get to fix it. A new wheel? New assembly? Just bearings? Thanks for any help. I'd take the other one on the other side off and compare but it's late and I had to abandon it.
 

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Just a 6205 bearing.

Do you have the grease cap or did it not use it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't remember seeing one. The other side has an exposed nut.
So I should be able to order one an just go back with a wrench! Oh, do I need those special spring clip pliers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, so one more question on this. I should get two and replace both on the back idler wheels? And on Royal Distributing (canada) they have NTN or Standard. I'm thinking of going with NTN, and getting 6205 for the rear idlers on my Tundra 87. just want to confirm that 6205 is the right part number for this. not to doubt Old Sled Nut, just want to make sure with sled model before I order.
 

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6205LLU Sealed 25x52x15 Ball Bearing. This is the brg you need. sealed both sides designed for snowmobile.

If you have the grease cap ? take one seal out and have that side against the grease cap
 

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Ok, so one more question on this. I should get two and replace both on the back idler wheels? And on Royal Distributing (canada) they have NTN or Standard. I'm thinking of going with NTN, and getting 6205 for the rear idlers on my Tundra 87. just want to confirm that 6205 is the right part number for this. not to doubt Old Sled Nut, just want to make sure with sled model before I order.
Since one bearing is bad it would be a good idea to replace the other.

You need a 6205 with a 25mm inside diameter. That idler was designed to be used with a grease cap to be able to grease the bearing but it is not absolutely necessary. If you are not using the grease caps then use a double sealed bearing and you are good to go.

I would use a NTN bearing in this more critical location as you don't want to walk home again as could happen with plain or cheapo bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ha ha, sure don't want to walk home if I don't have to! Thanks for the quick replies guys, in a short winter I want to get back out ASAP, we finally got a good dump of snow!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ha! I guess so with 2200 plus posts and that long list of sweet sleds! Anyway, thanks OSN and 118, this place is very helpful, I hope to learn enough that some day I can help others out too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Whoah! what is the trick to getting that race out of there? I got the snap ring after soaking in some WD overnight, but the race she's in there good!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i should add that I looked up the archived thread on changing out bearings, but this one has separated and the only way to get at the outer race is through the same way it has to go in.
 

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Can you flip it over and use a punch/drift and drive it by hooking on the ball groove?
 
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Old machinist trick here. If you can run a small bead of weld on the inside of race & let it cool for 10 minutes if will tap out easy as it will shrink bearing race. We do this a lot in our machine shop & it works great.
 

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If you cannot drive it out as described above and if you have a dremel tool with a cut off wheel. You can grind the outer race of the bearing right through.

It may sound difficult put once you start grinding it will only take a couple minutes and you will be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will try the ball groove first, then I have a buddy that can weld, I'll take it to him! I will let you know what worked.
 
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