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So I made unfortunate contact with local flora a couple weeks ago on a club poker rally, leaving me with a bent s module and collapsed e module. I've been slowly stripping things away in preparation for replacement, but am currently wondering if I'm gonna have to pull the engine to replace the e module, or if there's a way to suspend the engine while I remove the e module for replacement.

Anyone who's been this deep in their sled care to comment or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance for any insight offered...
 

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You don't need to pull the motor. Remove the suspension, drive axel and track. Remove everything above the engine, then suspend the engine from the ceiling while removing engine mounts. You can get to everything you need to - there are some rivets you will need to remove from inside the tunnel with the engine still in place. I got the engine lift ring from Skidoo (screws into one of the spark plug holes) to suspend the engine from - pretty cheap and very secure.

I put back together using 1/4" ss button head bolts with nylock nuts from fastenal. Held great and much easier to take back apart the next time you decide to get too friendly with a tree...

Of course a lot of people will tell you it is easier to just remove the engine, but it is possible to do it without. It is a good time to do a deep check on the entire sled - replace bearing, bushings, check for rubbing and wear on hoses and wires, etc. Perfect time for a preventative throttle cable replacement if you have a sled that wears them out as well.

Good luck!

dave
 

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Easy answer. Engine needs to be pulled. You'll spend way more time trying to figure out how to support the engine with the e-module removed than to just pull the engine. After the engine is out you'll see all the rivets you need to remove and replace. You'll appreciate the easy access. Search dootalk. There are a number of great topics explaining the process with pics and detailing hardware you need to bolt back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok. Gonna tackle this sometime in the upcoming week. Seems to be most people say replace the large huck rivets with m6 or 1/4" bolts when reinstalling the s module, but I'm sure I've read some people say to use stainless, and others say grade 8 bolts for strength.

Will the stainless be strong enough, or should I use the grade 8 hardware and just scowl at the weathered appearance when they start to rust?
 

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I use grade 8 with yellow zinc finish. Grade 8 is stronger and the zinc finish is more compatible with the aluminum. Stainless steel is not a good combo with aluminum in wet environments due to galvanic corrosion. Stainless steel will eat away at the aluminum it is fastening if it ever gets salty water on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you still happy with the use of grade 5 hardware BriskyD? I like the thoughts of the zinc plated hardware SnowMN, I think that's the direction I will take, pending availability. I need this thing back together by the 15th and I'm in northern Alberta, so waiting a week for shipping isn't in the cards.

Excellent writeup btw BriskyD. Been looking for a similar engine removal guide for my etec 800 but havent seen much lol. Never been this deep in a snowmobile, always nervous on my first go round. At least I have a great visual aid once I get that out haha!

Thanks for the comments folks. Anyone have any suggestions of what else I should look at while I've got it this far apart? The sled has about 900 miles on it. Pretty fresh for this kind of repair ????
 

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Do you have a Fastenall or Brafasco near you? I like using 1/4" grade 8 fine thread with steel lock nuts. Flanged head are nice but harder to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I do have fastenal but with it being a smaller market here, they would have to order it from an American distribution center, and to get it here this week would cost me an extra $100 for a total of $225.

I've been on the phone since my last post looking at my options, but there are very few outside of going with the grade 5 hardware.
 

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Are you still happy with the use of grade 5 hardware BriskyD? I like the thoughts of the zinc plated hardware SnowMN, I think that's the direction I will take, pending availability. I need this thing back together by the 15th and I'm in northern Alberta, so waiting a week for shipping isn't in the cards.

Excellent writeup btw BriskyD. Been looking for a similar engine removal guide for my etec 800 but havent seen much lol. Never been this deep in a snowmobile, always nervous on my first go round. At least I have a great visual aid once I get that out haha!

Thanks for the comments folks. Anyone have any suggestions of what else I should look at while I've got it this far apart? The sled has about 900 miles on it. Pretty fresh for this kind of repair
I put a few seasons on them and they held up great. Never loosened up. Minimal corrosion, I sprayed the bare aluminum down with wd-40 a couple times per season and always before storage.
The Bolt Barn on eBay has a nice selection of hardware. That where I got everything. They were zinc coated

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 

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Just noticed you don't want to wait for shipping. If you have a dealer nearby, they sell the factory flange bolts for Race Sled assembly. You will still need a few extras than they show on parts diagram. They will also have the proper rivets where needed.
 
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