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Caliber sled wheels

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8.1K views 26 replies 19 participants last post by  Boosted T  
#1 ·
I'm looking to replace a set or slip on ski wheels. Does anyone have any experience with the Caliber sled wheels. I will use them to move sleds w/o ski wheels in and out of my trailer and garage. I have Rouski wheels on my own sled, but with a 3 place trailer. I trailer friends and family that don't have wheels. Plus working on other sleds, that have to drive in and out of my garage to be worked on, etc. I want to know from people that have them. Can you easily load and unload on a trailer? Can you back up with them, like back out of a trailer? I also will be driving across a gravel drive way. Thanks in advance for your responses.
 
#7 ·
Very happy with them for driving in and out of the garage and on a cement driveway, and you can back up with them. No experience driving in or out of a trailer with them, and not sure how they'd work on gravel. The only thing I miss compared to a traditional sled dolly set, is the ability to push the sled sideways towards the garage wall to get it closer.
 
#9 ·
I have a set of non-caliber for the front, and the caliber rear. The caliber rear is great..The fronts had air inflated 8" tires, and I would have one to 3 go flat (tubes) so I converted them to solid wheels.
 
#26 ·
I have the same question and would like to try these but have the same concern. Are they high enough to have snow trackers clear the pavement?
 
#16 ·
These appear superior to Caliber at 1/2 the price.

 
#17 ·
Those sparked my interest. Of course I’m 7 states away from my sled right now otherwise I’d take some measurements. Not sure they’ll work in my particular application as I have DS2 skis with snow-trackers. I’m thinking even with the 10” wheels there may not be enough clearance to get the carbides high enough and the wheel not hitting the lower A arm. Time will tell when I can measure. Thx.
 
#18 ·
I have cement shop floor and asphalt driveway with all aluminum trailer bed so I have two sets of caliber being talked about.

Whatever you pick watch the outside wheel stud, caliber has it correct, nice tucked in bolt head. Other brands have threads sticking out to catch your trailer wall and other things like your bibs as you try walk past the sled in your trailer.

I like the idea of the EZ Wheelz as they would take way less space, but they say you can't leave them on or you will get a flat spot on the tire. Also looks to be a pain to left the ski then try bend under the sled to put on or take off while in the trailer. (But I don't own them to prove it)

Caliber adjustments did not seem to be that big of a deal from one ski to another, but perhaps they were close enough to work. (DS 2 on my older sleds, worked on a Yamaha and a Poo without changes at all but just to load and unload is all we needed.)

Tabs that go under the ski have width adjustment, amount of lift off the ground is adjustable so not sure why they wouldn't works with different types of carbide types but I don't run them to know. (Check mfg website for specs)

Good luck!

Sent from my moto g power (2021) using Tapatalk
 
#19 ·
EZ wheels would be fairly easy to make on your own, harbor freight wheels and a steel dowel cut and threaded, then get a bolt and bolt the wheel to the dowel. Replace the ski bolt with a 10mm longer stainless steel bolt, and you're done.

I've considered making my own, would probably cost more to buy a longer dowel that needs to be cut down to size
 
#22 ·
EZ wheels would be fairly easy to make on your own, harbor freight wheels and a steel dowel cut and threaded, then get a bolt and bolt the wheel to the dowel. Replace the ski bolt with a 10mm longer stainless steel bolt, and you're done.

I've considered making my own, would probably cost more to buy a longer dowel that needs to be cut down to size
I thought the same thing... but the price they are asking really isn't too bad and no fabrication.
 
#21 ·
I use both the Caliber wheel's and the cheap Sno-Stuff universal black cheap ski boots. With the Caliber wheels, It's not a game stopper... but the different ski handle hoops from year to year on the Ski Doo skis have a different length by high position measurement (where the Caliber's lock on), which puts the center of the wheel in different locations from ski to ski making the ski tip either down in the front or back depending on location. The boots work well for driving in and out of a trailer, and across most any surface, but a pain to get under a ski and off again. Hope the Caliber explanation make sense.
 
#24 ·
I looked at some of these for awhile, just struggled with two things. The price, and the fact that you have so much girth / bulk next to the skis that you load the sled, take them off and then have to slide the sled over to get the ski next to the wall (in an inline trailer).

I ended up buying two pairs of Skinz (now out of business but you can still find them) "Ski Guards" - basically an old school ski skin that is held onto the bottom of the skis with real heavy bungee cords. SLP makes something similar.

Not as fancy, but I could buy two sets for the price of one set of the Caliber wheels and dont take any adjusting. I honestly dont even put the cords on unless I am loading into the trailer. For moving in and out of my garage, across my driveway they work great without the cords. And when we ride out of the house, just get the skis up on the yard and just tip each ski off the ground while moving and they fall off.

Several years of use and they have held up great.