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I could be way off, but isn't the chain supposed to stretch a little.

When I picked up my sled the mechanic went over it with me, and one thing he stressed was the chain is adjusted - if you keep tightening it after every ride you will stretch it, and it will continue to to stretch until it breaks.

I know I don't have thousands of miles on my sled - I've said before that I'd be happy to get through breakin this season - but if you tighten after every ride, instead of every several hundred miles, surely that'd shorten the life of it.

I have been checking my dipstick. Wipe that magnet off religously, and have found no chunks. Lots of black, gluey garbage but no teeth (so far anyway). And there wasn't so much of that after the last ride either.

Please be gentle with the flames - just asking qusetions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
From the sounds of it these are low mileage sleds and the guys are checking the tension on them....maybe not enough, but it still shouldn't happen.

After a few hundred miles I recommend pulling the cover and replacing all the black stinky oil in there with some Amsoil chaincase lube.
 

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REV*BARON said:
http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/messagevie...threadid=243321

Found this over on snowest.

The summit guys are snapping chains and ruining their chaincases.

Might not hurt to read this thread and check your tension and dipstick for metal pieces.
[snapback]727275[/snapback]​
Thanks for the heads up! After riding off trail a good part of the day Sunday I noticed some oil coming from my chain case when I put the sled in the trailer, looked to be coming from the dipstick area. I bet mine is about to go, I'll have to check it out tonight. 2000 miles and check the tension every ride
. At least
I'll be able to check it out b/4 it comes apart.
 

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Tightening the chain only removes the slack from the slackside of the chain. Stretching ocurrs under acceleration at which point it is dead straight. That's why you hear the whining under braking as the chain is bent tight around the tensioner. IMO if the chain is left slack you have more freeplay between pulling the trackshaft under accel and pulling the jackshaft under braking. The more freeplay the more lash and the more momentum it has to slam the chain tight... snap ! Overtightening will obviously get everything smokin hot and cause a failure too. Finger snug and back 1/2 a turn. My 06 Gade has already stretched more than my 05 121 in 1000 less miles but It's pullin harder and I climbed alot of hills in Gaspe.
I will say that I do not like the Bombi chaincase oil, it's like molasses when its cold. I've used Shell advance synthetic on my last 6 sleds trouble free.
(knocking on wood)

 

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If you read what the mountain 2006 guys are going thru - reading all of the comments.. it sounds like links are breaking at the pins.. they are finding warning signs when checking their dipsticks.. with pieces of links attached to the magnet.

Flatland trail riding probably loads the chains a lot less.. so it is not being seen nearly as much when trail riding would be my guess.... but it is definitely something to be aware of... and from the sounds of it.. I would doubt lubricant plays much of an issue.. Maybe bad quality steel or bad processing when building the chains originally.. some purchasing agent.. was able to save some doo some money when buying and maybe bought chains from someone he shouldn't have would be my guess. Just based on the number of them that appear to be failing in the mountains.. My guess in the long run it will cost doo a lot of money, both in warranty chains, cases and gears.. and customer loyalty.
 

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griggm said:
REV*BARON said:
http://www.snowest.com/fusetalk/messagevie...threadid=243321

Found this over on snowest.

The summit guys are snapping chains and ruining their chaincases.

Might not hurt to read this thread and check your tension and dipstick for metal pieces.
[snapback]727275[/snapback]​
Thanks for the heads up! After riding off trail a good part of the day Sunday I noticed some oil coming from my chain case when I put the sled in the trailer, looked to be coming from the dipstick area. I bet mine is about to go, I'll have to check it out tonight. 2000 miles and check the tension every ride
. At least
I'll be able to check it out b/4 it comes apart.
[snapback]727432[/snapback]​
I would,nt worry about it. it,s coming from the breather hole in the dip stick. Just makes for a stinky boot. The deeper the snow and faster you go the worse it is
 

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As stated in the manual check tension weekly, do it cold, you'll find less resistance from the adjusting nut "O" rings and you'll get a better feel, finger tighten then back off to incert pin. That type of adjustment will NOT stretch chain, can't believe a BRP mechanic would say that.
 

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Mine seems to be getting alot of stretch but no chunkys on the dipstick. I do ride it hard so i would expect it to stretch a bit after the first few rides breaking it in. Anyways, so far so good, i check the tension and clean the magnet a couple times a week.
 

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REV*BARON said:
From the sounds of it these are low mileage sleds and the guys are checking the tension on them....maybe not enough, but it still shouldn't happen.

After a few hundred miles I recommend pulling the cover and replacing all the black stinky oil in there with some Amsoil chaincase lube.
[snapback]727425[/snapback]​
I don't want to sound like a buttsniff here, but if it needs to be changed after every couple of hundred miles, all I would get done was changing the freakin chaincase lube. Maybe you meant like several thousand or something. Don't get crazzy here, just want a little claification, because I do not change mine NEAR that often.

Thanks.

Skin
 

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I think he just means after the "first" few hundered miles...

on the + side doo makes it VERY easy to adjust the chain, no tools are needed and you can do it with your gloves on!


I just put a note on my helmet to check it b4 the next ride!

thanks for the reminder guys!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep...just change the oil after the break in period. That's when you'll have the most contaminents in the oil. No different than changing your oil in your car....the first one is the most important.

After that I just change mine once a year at the end of the season.
 

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Besides the chain stretching (wearing) the sprockets also wear on the flute (face), if the chain is allowed to run loose for too long the natural tendency is for the chain, under power, is too climb the face of the tooth, this wears the tooth at the top, where it is the thinest and in turn can change the pitch of the sprocket in relation to the chain, now adjusting the chain after this wear can cause all sorts of vibiration and noise and in turn cause premature failures. That's one of the reasons it states in the manual to check the chain tension on a regular basis, not just at the begining but all the time.

So don't procastinate DOO IT. It hardly costs anything.
 

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Last year I broke 3 three chains on my 05 600. One on my wife's 05 500ss. I'm really glad this year has good so far. The chain hasn't stretched half as much as last year. Last year I was getting like two full turns after every 300 - 400 miles. This year it has been back to normal, after the first 300 - 400 miles it needed to be tightened, after that it hasn't needed any adjustment.
 

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I lost two chains on my '06. My outside links were broken in a couple of spots. Always had problems with 'Cat stuff in buddies sleds but this is the first ones in any 'Doo. I checked alignment and it was off abit. Shimmed to perfect alignment. Have a bout 100 miles since last chain and took out pto side last week and sled is in shop waiting on parts. So I don't know if its fixed.
-Grover
 

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What doo you guys suggest for proper chain tension? I have been hand tightening and then backing off a half of a turn.

I blew my case up the other weekend. It had newer oil in it and proper chain tension.


I have also heard that chains tighten up slightly when they get warm.
 
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