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I have been working on fixing up a 97 T2. I have it all together now and took it on the maiden voyage. Well tried to!! After you warm it up on the trail, it bogs right out and if you let it sit and cool, away you go again.

Issue Summary and What i have done:

- Idles low even if you adjust the screw

- Bogs out completely after it warms up

- Muffler got really hot, I'm guessing burning carbon and un-burnt oil/fuel

- Cleaned the carbs

- Compression is good

- Good Spark.

Any Thoughts??
 

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I had a similar situation with a tundra sounds like the same symptoms I found that the carb needle and the needle jet were worn causing it to run rich that's why when the engine is cold it runs ok but then is to rich when engine warms up if you have another carb to throw on to confirm this is the fault that would be good I hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like a logical first step, I will purchase a carb kit and rebuild it with new parts. I will post results.
 

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I had a similar problem with my 99 Tundra. I noticed that on my 04 Tundra there is a rubber gasket that seals around the top of the motor shroud and the hood. Allowing the hot air to escape. I added this gasket to the 99 as well as the small section that attaches under the hood and this eliminated my bog problem on the 99 when warm.

Hope this helps
 

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just wanted to clarify my previous post im not talking about the needle and seat in float bowl but the round slide needle and the needle jet
 

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Troubleshooting I have done so far:

1 - Tore down, soaked, and rebuilt carb, this time with new pilot and main jets.

2 - Checked clip at top of needle and its set as per spec in manual slot #2

3 - Re-routed fuel lines away from engine block and muffler

4 - Checked crank seal by spraying ether/starting fluid around crank seal with engine cold and warm no change to RPM.

It seemed to be running a little better so went for a longer run. It didn't heat up on the trail, I kept the speed up on the run. Once I got back to the yard I let it sit and idle for a bit. Oddly it started to bog a little bit again.

I have a sneaking suspicion that it may be a cooling issue as "Jason F" suggests. To test that theory I will try to make a foam seal between the cooling port on the top of the engine cowl and the Cab, hopefully this will aid in keeping the engine cooler. As I also have a 93 T-2 I will take the carb off of it and put it on the 97 in order to test the suggestion that "Skantun" posted.

I almost forgot to mention, I may also be getting excessive heat from the exhaust pipe, as there was quite a build up of residual carbon and oil that was in the pipe and muffler that is progressively clearing/burning off as I take the machine on longer runs. In addition is was -4 C when I first had the issue and today is was -8 C. So I may have been dealing with a "Perfect Storm" (heat storm)!!

Thanks again for the feedback/suggestions - I think we are getting closer to cracking this case!!
 

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You might have partially sheared the flywheel key. When the timing is retarded, the exhaust will get very hot and will have little power, poor idle
 

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Your fan is turning when engine is running isn't it? If so and your needle and seat are working correctly make sure your choke is adjusted properly. I had a brand new sled do that one time and the dealer hadn't adjusted it correctly.
 

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If it still has the oil injector, check the adjustment on that and make sure it is spot on. The float level is correct and letting enough fuel in?

Dan
 

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When you sprayed the starting fluid was it already bogging? If not, you need to test it when it is having the problem.

Just worked on a motor that would run great for about 20 minutes and then bog down. I checked for air leaks when it was just started and didn't find any. Next time I took it out for about 20 minutes, once it started bogging I used the starting fluid and discovered the PTO crank seal was leaking.

My sons 380 was doing basically the same thing, but his took a bit longer to heat up. Turned out his head gasket was leaking after it warmed up. Replaced with a better gasket and it works great.

If you don't own a thermometer pistol, you should get one. They come in real handy for lots of things. I got mine at Lowes for about $40. Yeah, a cheap model, but I only need to be close. +/- 5 degrees is fine.
 
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