Before you buy one go trying putting a sled in one. I myself would want a taller trailer I can semi stand up in. I think this ones to low. If you need it to fit into a garagre it will, but I dont think it will fit you unless close to being on your hands and knees.

 

Right, I definitely want it to fit in my garage but even if I did not want to be able to put it in my garage, I wouldn't want a big bulky wind sail behind me. I thought about the triton inline trailer but they run the wiring on the outside of the frame so its all exposed and the tongue doesn't go deep under the trailer. But I would have more height in the trailer. I just want to figure out what my best option is out there. I didn't know if there is another good trailer company to look into?

 

Two of my friends have the ProStar Bullitt. Very nice trailers. Both are 7' x 16' with 15" radials and traction mats and 3500 pound axle. Paid $7638 out the door. This was almost 2 years ago. I think the company that builds them is Diversified Dock in Quincy, Michigan.

I think one of them is getting out of the sport and his trailer may be for sale.

Don~

 

I'm not far from there. I think I'll stop in there today to take a look. What do your friends have to say about ProStarr? Thanks!

 

Looking at a similar trailer made by Ameralite myself called the M series. Dealer not far from me has a few in stock and comes with brakes standard, may pick one up soon.

 

I thought about Ameralite and did my research but they use cheaper materials. The tubing thickness is what struck me. They as well as triton both run the wiring on the outside frame rails completely exposing the wires to the slush. I can about imagine the ice chunks hanging from that. I am definitely leaning more towards ProStarr at the moment as I just visited their factory today. I would recommend checking out Prostarr before going with that m series. They really took care of me today and got me in the right direction. I will be ordering a bullitt during their novi snowmobile show deals november 1st.

 

NEO also builds a quality trailer. They are located between Sturgis and White Pigeon, Michigan on U.S. 12.

Pretty sure the NEO will cost more.

Don~

 

I have heard great things about NEO too. I will have to go check them out. Thank you

 

RnR Trailers in Three Rivers, Michigan is a decent brand. Good bang for the buck, but not the quality of a ProStar or NEO.

RnR wiring leaves a lot to be desired.

Don~

 

I am leaning more towards a quality built trailer. Something that's made to last. I will go check out neo sometime this week but I am really leaning towards ProStarr

 

Very happy with my prostarr bullitt. I have the extra 6" roof height. 2 seasons so far with no issues. No issues to date with many miles on it now. Did my fall service and found nothing wrong once again. Know couple guys that purchased last year and like them.
Have travelled in the absolute worst conditions and its like the name says... a bullitt and keeps behind the truck, unless its empty. Had it sideways in a blizzard but trailer was empty going to pick up the machine.

 

I have one on order for a late summer 2025 delivery. Are you glad you went with the extra 6"? Also do you feel that extra 6 pulls any different then the standard height?

 

I like my Legend Explorer trailer

Explorer Snow | All-Aluminum Snowmobile Trailer

 

I don't think Neo or R&R make a Bullitt style trailer. I would go for the max height to fit in your garage or wherever else you're planning to store it. A taller trailer will have better resale and really won't tow much worse as long as you have a truck. I had a Bullitt style ProLine trailer with 6.5' ceiling. Towed great! I bought a used sled once from a lady with a Bullitt and she pulled it behind a small suv. She raved about how well it towed. The other small option for two sleds is a 7x12 + v nose inline trailer. Lightning makes one. It'll tow as easy as a Bullitt plus you can drive in / drive out which is convenient sometimes.

 

Wiring is just fine outside the frame...If it's well protected, sealed, and not cheap primary wiring.

As above, RNR makes a great frame. The axle on mine isn't simply drilled through the frame and rest on the axle perch. They used a bracket to mount to the side of the frame, therefore no holes in the frame, and the brackets provide additional strength.


But they need a basic example how to do wiring. I replaced all my wiring on my 2020 ARC 12.

1. Use marine tinned wire. Regular copper turns brown and then disolves in the salt.
2. Run the wiring in a automotive heater or fuel line hose.
3. Crimp, Solder, Seal, and fasten all wires. My ground wires are through bolted into the frame (coated with dialectric), not just a sheet metal screw.
4. All of my connections are a little unorthodox, but they work! I solder the connections, then put a household wirenut on it. Then fill the wirenut with silicone. Finally cover the connections with some gorilla tape. Electrical, chemical, mechanical, and vibration proof.
5. Invest in a quality coupler, a cold weather pre-molded connector lead, and a distribution box.

wiring here -->BOAT Wire | Marine Grade Wire Products
Molded cable-->https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/Bargman/54006-057.html
Coupler->https://www.etrailer.com/Straight-Tongue-Trailer-Coupler/Demco/DM15000-52.html

 

If you are in the Northeast US, take a look at a custom factory-direct trailer from ProLine trailers in tax-free Milton, New Hampshire. They are very high quality and will make you EXACTLY what you want.

Aluminum Enclosed Trailer Company - Proline Products LLC

I am VERY happy with the IS716 model trailer that they custom built for me in 2021.

 

I second that. It’s all I have. Work and play. Three and counting.

 

Triton TC167 gets my vote

 

Why Triton? What are the benefits with triton over prostarr? Do you own a triton?

 

Ive got a 8.5 x 20 Blizzard and highly recommend one. Actual marine grade plywood floors not osb, trussed roof supports, standard galvy axles, all wiring run high up in the ceiling and drops to all the lights, double tubing on main beam, ss hinges with grease fittings, door latch assemblys inside door, doors have actual weather stripping in a channel not just glued on foam rubber, etc, etc. They are right in NY.

 

Pay me now or pay me later..

Don~

 

Costs way more later

 

I had one US border officer give me crap over my Maine trailer plate. And when I said "it's not illegal", he then said "Yeah, but that doesn't make it right!" Um, I am pretty sure that legal = right.

Another US border officer told me he DOES THE EXACT SAME THING.

Most border / customs officers don't care at all.

 

I don't blame you one bit, if we can go 4 miles down the road and buy something tax free then we should be able to keep it and take the bonus. Absolutely no reason for our state to collect sales tax on something that was not sold in this state, and by someone who does not conduct business in this state. The appropriate taxes on the sale of that trailer were paid at time of purchase on the grounds the business was conducted on. Taxation without representation, but let's not go down that road here.

 

I think you have to take an A-hole test, and pass, to be considered for a Border/Customs Agent. Never met a pleasant one.

Don~

 

I priced out a RnR trailer. Very expensive for what it was. Plus warranty is not great. I ended up ordering a Proatarr Bullitt for a late summer delivery. The warranty alone is worth it.

 

I recommend getting a trailer from a good dealer close to you. Most trailers now days are junk and you will use a warranty. Which means back to the dealer. Unless you’re going high end like a featherlight, Logan coach, etc. then you have a better chance of zero warranty (but they still could have issues). By from the dealer you trust, not the brand.

Also, I’d never by a Mission or anything owned by AlCom. If you do, make sure you buy from a local dealer, cause you’re most likely gonna use the warranty. Especially with wiring.

 

I have a 2008 Mission and it has been flawless. It's showing it's age a bit now and needs some work but the only wiring repair I've done is to upgrade the length of the primary plug to the truck and repair some mouse chewing. All of the original marker lights are still working fine. The frame is mint, no cracks at any of the welds/seams. Must have got a good one.

 

Props to you towing thru Toronto in the winter. I used to tow a travel trailer thru there to races in the States & never enjoyed it (driving pickups in the GTA since the early 80s).

 

I’m in southwestern Ontario so through Toronto is pretty common. Commute for us to chase snow. Montreal now that’s a different story, makes Toronto like a walk in the park lol. It’s just nuts there. We are going through states Tuesday to cross at Sault headed for Searchmont area starting point. Cant wait for our first trip to the Northern corridor this season. Super pumped.

I just measured interior of trailer 62 1/2” floor to ceiling supports. Maybe I don’t have the extra 6”. Either way it works perfect for our needs. I was told at purchase it was last available that year ‘22 and that it was extra height.

 

There's a couple (he's on here too) they are from SW Ontario too. Head to Cochrane a few times a year.

About Montreal, I remember hearing that back in '75 when we drove thru to the Maritimes. In recent years, coming back from Maine, I've entered Quebec north of Champlain NY & crossed the river @ Valleyfield. Likely not much help if staying north of the St Lawrence. Have a good trip!

 

Triton trailers aren't what they used to be since they sold out. I have a 2010 Triton TC16 and it's been trouble free. The wiring harness is inside the frame (never a lighting issue) and aluminum bar locks on the ramp, the new ones use cheap zinc plated steel. I didn't know they run the harness on the outside of the frame now...no thanks. My next one (a few years down the road) will probably be a ProStar Bullitt.

 

Triton trailers aren't what they used to be since they sold out. I have a 2010 Triton TC16 and it's been trouble free. The wiring harness is inside the frame (never a lighting issue) and aluminum bar locks on the ramp, the new ones use cheap zinc plated steel. I didn't know they run the harness on the outside of the frame now...no thanks. My next one (a few years down the road) will probably be a ProStar Bullitt.

I'm not sure what you mean by bar locks.

 

The handles on the rear ramp door that open to put the ramp down then close and secure when ramp is up. Also where to padlocks go for security. Also called cam bars.

Don~

 

OK. Thank you. I've never heard a name for them, so was a bit puzzled.

So that leads me to this question, which are more prevalent in the trailer industry, alum' or cheap zinc plated steel?

I'll start the answers w/ plated steel on my NEO...

 

Just talking to my two riding buddies. Both have Action trailers (1 is a 2025 model, the other no more that 5 years old) & both have steel components.

Also going back to the post in question, I have had parts 'yellow' zinc dichromate plated, including a 'rock tamer' bracket that sees year round use. It is several years old & hasn't started to rust. I have some other parts that are outdoors yearround but don't see road service & they are almost like new. The yellow plating is the same as what was used on power brake boosters in the past. The plating can be also 'clear' which just looks like shiny steel.

I have also had several items hot dipped galvanized that are not showing rust either.

 

Any trailer I have ever ordered I specify Stainless Steel hardware including screws.

I have friends that have aluminum that have held up well.

I've never considered the ones that you have described, but I can certainly see it would be something to consider,

Don~

 

I doubt you could specify how the steel is treated. But I'm sure a reputable OEM would use some form of plating.

Just because alum' isn't used, doesn't mean steel is 'cheap'. If it was the ultimate mat'l maybe the axles should be alum' too? Other components come to mind that should always be steel, like couplers. Sarcasm off. Is a direct substitution of alum' for steel on a part a good idea or does it have to be re-engineered to stand up to it's use and/or abuse?

I'm just thinking that just because it isn't alum', doesn't make something inferior.

Reminds me of a segment in DynoTech years ago. Jim Czekala(sp?) told of a customer that had a set of pipes made of titanium thinking it was superior to mild steel & then wrapped the pipes in exhaust wrap to keep them hot while racing. Well that wasnt a great idea as the pipes basically disintegrated inside of the wrap.

 

The cross piece for my mud flaps:

Just regular steel plated w/ zinc dichromate.