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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
I need some advice. We have 2013 Grand Touring 550f. Yesterday we got it into the ditch and while pulling it out in reverse the belt all of a sudden got loose so it was no longer catching. The reason was the belt falling down the driven pulley under pressure. Never happened while driven forward. But I can make it happen in reverse.
I am not sure if the spring got too soft or it is a normal behaviour and only some torque can be applied in reverse.
Here is the picture of when it got down. Normally it sits level with the top of the pulley.
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Black Tread
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi torque rollers which are in Canada.
Excellent. I have checked Fett bros and the shipping is 40 bucks.

One more question. Does anyone know the part number of the tool that is meant to keep the drive in place while secondary clutch is removed? It looks like the iron rod with some thread on one end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I think you mean this


but according to the fiche, it's not part of the jackshaft. You can just unbolt the secondary and remove it like the older Doo sleds.
Sorry, who is fiche?
All the videos I have watched have secondary removed with jackshaft. Are you saying that jackshaft can stay in while secondary is removed?
That will make things much easier as I will not have to remove muffler and other stuff from right side
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is awesome!!!
Do I still need the compression tool? Or some other tool?
The sled is at the cottage 4 hours away. so I need to buy everything in the city and bring it over.
REALLY appreciate the help!
 

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I’m not familiar with that type of clutch so I don’t want to steer you in the wrong direction, but for the jackshaft mounted QRS with the stock spring I simply replace 2 of the helix bolts with longer bolts then back everything off relieving the tension. Makes more sense when you do it.

My current spring is much longer and requires something similar to what you posted above however I just use some threaded rod, washers, nuts and a piece of pipe cut in half to “lock” the threaded rod in the jack shaft rather than buying a tool.
 

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You should be able to make your own compression tool with 1/2" threaded rod and some large washers. I used pvc pipe as a spacer. Make sure to protect your bushing from the rod with some tape when working. Also, check for any shims sticking to the secondary when you pull it off initially. They can fall off unnoticed and get lost.
Gas Automotive tire Engineering Machine Auto part


Now for some potential bad news. It looks like your year may have the roll pins that are hard to get out. I've never changed rollers myself, but found this info in other threads.

2008-2011 had a C-clip.
2012 had a setscrew. (417222813 Pin Screw)
2013 had roll pin M3 x 18 and hole does not go thru.
2014-2016 had roll pin M3 x 30 and hole is thru.
2017-present had roll pin 3/32" x 1" and hole is thru.

and

One big one everyone the roller axle on the 2012's and 2013's is held into the sheave with a very small allen screw or a dowel pin. Do not try to remove the torx roller pivot axle without removing the set screw or pin.

Serious damage will occur.
Also note the roller axle or pin must go back in the same hole it came out of. Ity must be visually aligned with the set screw hole to re install the locking set screw.
 
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