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Zip Tie Technician
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just did a top end rebuild on my engine, so it was out of the sled. The ground cable on the mag side engine mount was frayed a bit. I was going to try to run it and see if I had any issues. My lights were dimmed at idle, at around 3000rpm they would brighten up to what I think was the proper brightness. So I replaced the ground cable with 6 gauge copper, much stronger and won't fray. Still the lights aren't as bright at idle.

When I took the sled for the first ride as well I had my hand warmers on and I noticed my lights weren't that bright, I switched off the hand warmers and they got brighter. When I was cruising around 5-6k rpm my hand warmers weren't working. I didn't rode the sled before I did the rebuild so I'm not sure if the rebuild may have something to do with it or not.

I didn't get any replies on my previous post about this issue, but on another forum someone told me it is likely a bad stator. I have yet to go through all my electrical connections and determine anything. I don't have any diagnostic electric equipment either so I don't have a way of measuring my stator output. The only thing I can think of is maybe the wires to the stator got damaged while routing the hoses/wiring when installing the engine, or maybe the plug that the 3 wires from the stator plug into are damaged, I had a hell of a time getting the 3 yellow wires out when removing the engine.
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Check the plug where the stator wires go into. May just have a bad contact there.

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Go through all the connections with a fine toothed comb to make sure there is no corrosion and the terminals don't look burnt. Also make sure they are fully plugged in.

Do yourself a favor and buy a multimeter. They can usually be found pretty cheap. Once you have that you at least will have a tool you can use to correctly trouble shoot the problem.
 

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Unplug stator, using multimeter test resistance phase to phase of all combinations of wire, should all be same result or very close, then test them all to ground, should be open. Then set meter to ac volts and test between all combinations of leads again but while cranking, forget the spec but should all be the same

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SnomoSnob
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Did you remove the Stator from the block, Did you Re-Goo it on the back side?

Ours was full of RTV from the factory, keeps the stator from grounding. Also check the connection to the VR, ours had a broken nub and did not fully connect.

Also the 3 yellow wire need to be in the connector real good.

GutZ
 

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Zip Tie Technician
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Sorry I haven't updated back here I appreciate your replies. Been busy with school and work lately but tonight I am finally going to do something. -Nathan

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Zip Tie Technician
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did you remove the Stator from the block, Did you Re-Goo it on the back side?
Ours was full of RTV from the factory, keeps the stator from grounding. Also check the connection to the VR, ours had a broken nub and did not fully connect.
Also the 3 yellow wire need to be in the connector real good.
GutZ
Yeah I did remove the stator, didn't re-shmoo it lol. I don't recall there being any on the stator, just the pickups

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The three yellow wires were in good, I recall when I installed them to make sure they "clicked" in. I cleaned the contacts with some contact cleaner because of some shmoo on them. I will hook it up tomorrow and test.
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Also a small piece of plastic broken off of the connector that is beside a contact.
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Would the broken off plastic cause a bad connection? The rubber seal for the connector wasn't on correctly as well. I'm wondering if it may have stopped the connector from getting a good connection. I would go through all the connections tonight but it's currently -32 and -45 with the wind chill. And I'm using a propane heater to heat my poorly insulated "garage". LOL
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Would the broken off plastic cause a bad connection?

- I doubt it from what I'm seeing in the picture.

The rubber seal for the connector wasn't on correctly as well. I'm wondering if it may have stopped the connector from getting a good connection.

- This one seems plausible.

I would go through all the connections tonight but it's currently -32 and -45 with the wind chill. And I'm using a propane heater to heat my poorly insulated "garage". LOL

- Working on the electrical when it's cold is a real pain. Keep plugging away at it. I think you are getting warmer :p
 

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Zip Tie Technician
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hooked the connector back up. I didn't hear an audible "click" sound but I couldnt pull it out so I believe that it is connected good. The seal was seated correctly as well.
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still having issues
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Tried to show in the pictures that the headlights are brighter when the rpm climbs.

I have an exam tomorrow so gonna study for the rest of today, then get back working on it tomorrow. I guess just going through all the connections. I'll see about getting a multimeter to measure the stator, I'm still concerned about one of the wires having a weak connection to it.

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Did you ever consider that there may be excessive draws like shorted out hand warmers that are causing an over-draw to the stator?

Once the stator is tested then you should keep that in mind. It could just be a short elsewhere that's causing the issues.

If you send me your email address I can give you access to my complete BRP service manual for the 2008 sleds. It will give you all the testing procedures and resistance readings.
 
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Zip Tie Technician
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Did you ever consider that there may be excessive draws like shorted out hand warmers that are causing an over-draw to the stator?
Once the stator is tested then you should keep that in mind. It could just be a short elsewhere that's causing the issues.

If you send me your email address I can give you access to my complete BRP service manual for the 2008 sleds. It will give you all the testing procedures and resistance readings.
Im gonna test the stator tomorrow and go over all the connections tonight. I have the service manual already. Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Going to go pick up a multi meter now. Then start testing the electrical system. I have no experience with this so it is going to be fun lol

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If everything tests out normal (or close to it) I would suspect you have a faulty gauge. Only way to be sure would be to try another, known good one. I've seen them cause the grip heaters to fail in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If everything tests out normal (or close to it) I would suspect you have a faulty gauge. Only way to be sure would be to try another, known good one. I've seen them cause the grip heaters to fail in the past.
its the headlights as well but I will keep it noted

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The stator resistance tested good. I am going to need help with the stator output, stator insulation and dc voltage output (voltage regulator) tests so I'm going to get a buddy to help me with those after work.

On the diagnostic connector for the voltage regulator there was some oil and other shmoo so that could mean something I suppose. One thing I also think could be an issue is a 12v outlet that is on the sled. I had to disconnect it when removing the dash and I didn't note which wire went where. On installation I put the red wire to the + and the black to the -. I know it's stupid to "ask" about but I just want to make sure I don't make any mistakes.

Is there any other tests that I need to do? And will the tests that I'm doing determine if the stator connector has a good connection or not?

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got a buddy to come help with the voltage regular test. Can't get a good reading. I have the multi meter set to 20 V DC and I am getting 8-9 at idle. When I speed the engine to 5000rpm the screen goes blank. Probe is on the red/blue wire in the diagnostic connector and the black is on a skid bolt for a ground. I also got a check engine light for like 10 seconds right after startup which I have no idea about.
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just did the test again and got 12-13v on a chaincase bolt.

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