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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title asks, if you have a 2017 Enduro or Renegade (preferably a 1200, but I don't think it matters), could you please submit a picture of where the front mounting bolt for the rear suspension goes through the tunnel? Either brake disc side, or chain case side. Thanks.

The equivalent of this pic:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the pic Doodah1200.

Looks like the OP is installed in the wrong hole.
If I had an Enduro, or other Renegade besides a GT SE with silent drive, you'd be correct (I think....not sure about X or XRS or Adrenaline).

It's installed correctly for the application (GT SE with silent drive), and there is no plastic plug covering the second hole. I gave up on it a couple years ago, but I'm now back to trying to figure out the differences between a silent drive system, and not silent drive. I've got the track and driver situation figured out. The rails and rear arm assemblies are the same part numbers (the rails have different caps). But the front arms are different part numbers....I happen to have another sled with the "different" part number....and their lengths measure identically (roughly, with a tape measure, still installed on sleds).

A couple years ago, when I tried installing a drive axle with traditional drivers, and bolted up the skid in the front hole on my sled, the drivers and tips of the rails interfered with one another. (Silent drive drivers run closer to the middle of the axle , and there are no anti-ratchet teeth engaging the track clips....the drivers engage 2 rows of involutes that are inboard of the track clips/windows.) I concluded that the front arms are either different lengths, or non-silent drive suspension mounts further back on the tunnel (and I'll have to drill the hole pictured by Doodah), or both.

The next step is to pull both skids, and try to determine exactly what the differences are between the two front arms, and go for it (the conversion.....I have all the other parts, that I'm aware of anyway).

I'm just not sure if I am going to have enough room to loosen the track tension bolts enough for it all to fit, when the front is mounted further back. Maybe there are other geometry differences between the two front arm part numbers?
 

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Whoa! I just assumed you had an Enduro because you asked for an Enduro pic, I just looked at one of my pics and compared it to Doodah's and it was in the same location. Will be interesting to find out your results .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whoa! I just assumed you had an Enduro because you asked for an Enduro pic, I just looked at one of my pics and compared it to Doodah's and it was in the same location. Will be interesting to find out your results .
Yeah....it was a loaded/leading question for sure.:) Sorry. Thanks all for the extra confirmation of the front bolt hole location. I probably should ask about the rear bolt hole location too. I'll have to see if there's some common "feature" we can use to see how far back the rear bolt is.

There's a couple threads on here, with questions about the conversion (I might have started one of them.) But there's no follow up or "how-to". If I get it completed and working, I'll post the info.

The front arm difference may just be the limiter strap retainers. The front arm part number that is common to all the applications I looked up looks like it has the tab for a second limiter strap. I'm pretty sure I remember my GT's arm can only use on limiter strap (because the second retainer doesn't exist).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@Doodah1200 @smurfy71 or anyone else that still has access to a 2017 Enduro or Renegade (NOT GT)....could you please take a measurement for me? Hook a tape measure on the expanded underside of this rivet, and measure back to the approximate center of the head of the rear suspension bolt (see image below, swiped from Doodah's post above, rivet is circled in red....the rear suspension bolt is the one that needs a thin wrench to hold the nut....the bolt is missing in fz's last image, the the rear suspension is hanging and not bolted up yet). Thanks.

Photograph White Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle
 

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That's probably sarcasm.
2016 1200 RenegadeX
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Sorry, my sled is still in storage. My pic was from last winter.


Sent from the Island of Misfit Toys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I have a 2015 X and from what I read, the tunnels are the same. I measure from center of rivet to center of bolt for upper idler where you identified above I have 28 3/16” c/c.
Thanks. I measured within 1/16" of that, on mine.


I now remember why I've been apprehensive to drill the tunnel. There is a reinforcement piece behind the front bolt, similar to what can be seen outside the tunnel. Except on the GT, there is also a raised radius section in this piece, and this raised section ends where the new drilled hole will go through.

So I will have to figure out how to flatten this out without making a mess and denting the tunnel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the offer, and for confirming. I'm good for now. I am not able to dig in further until the weekend. I have access to both part #'s used for the front arm (I just have to pull 2 skids to get to them), and compare the lengths and shock mounting bracket geometry and hole positions to be sure I can reuse my existing front arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
From what I understand in this thread you are converting a silent drive on your GT to regular drive axle? I have always wondered about this swap if it was a direct/no mod conversion.

The short answer: that is my desired end result (bolded above).

If you swap the standard axle into a 2017 GT that has silent drive (and change nothing else but the track), when the suspension compresses, the drivers interfere with the rail tips (even if you replace the GT tips with the common tips). This thread was my attempt at gathering some measurements from 137" skid sleds with regular drive axles, to see if the GT frame has the mounting holes in the same places (and if not, where do I need to drill). My only other sled that I have access to is a 129" skid. So the rear mounting position (and the rails) are different.

I'll post a "how-to" thread, IF this works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I just remembered one other motive for me doing this conversion.....

Once upon a time, a dealer told me that the default (ships-from-the-factory) limiter strap position is: pulled shorter by one hole for the GT's. Mine was delivered (brand new) shorter by one hole. And if I lengthen it, the rail tips will stab the windows. I can not lengthen the limiter strap (in stock form). My 129" MXZ will allow the strap to be all the way out....and it has to be, in order for the wife to be able to steer the thing.

Anyone know what the default (ships-from-the-factory) limiter strap position is for an Enduro or a Renegade (137" non-silent drive)?
 

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I just remembered one other motive for me doing this conversion.....

Once upon a time, a dealer told me that the default (ships-from-the-factory) limiter strap position is: pulled shorter by one hole for the GT's. Mine was delivered (brand new) shorter by one hole. And if I lengthen it, the rail tips will stab the windows. I can not lengthen the limiter strap (in stock form). My 129" MXZ will allow the strap to be all the way out....and it has to be, in order for the wife to be able to steer the thing.

Anyone know what the default (ships-from-the-factory) limiter strap position is for an Enduro or a Renegade (137" non-silent drive)?
Another big motive for me would be track options!
 
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