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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So had,( have) a overheat problem,everything is new or checked to be good.after re installing engine.( Changed oil tank) t stat.went for a ride in 3" fresh snow overheated in 10 min.my exhaust was glowing?? Fuel issue?? Plugged muffler??? Please help.im close to trading for some cross country skiing.????
 

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Administrator - East Coast Tony
900T XRS
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Are the heat exchangers hot? Is all the air out of the cooling system?
I would think the same thing except for the glowing exhaust.
 

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Water is flowing good from the little hose that goes through throttle body.runs great till 4 bars then like crap.( I thought it was limp mode).this is a new to me skidoo so not sure about a blockage.but heat exchangers are hot.would hooking up to bats tell anything else??
 

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T- stat installed backwards? Is that even possible? Looks like the assembly would prevents this.

Defective T-stat assembly? Remove and test.

Do temp bars ever read over 4? If not then suspect air in system. Coolant temperature sensor cannot sense heat if it's not surrounded by coolant. Been there, catastrophic results. Sensors not capable of reading steam temp.

Boil over?

Get the cheap IR Thermometer. She may be hotter than you think. I would shut her off if anything (except exhaust) gets over 250F at idle or slow. Rings/cylinders at stake.

You were in the lubrication system. Any chance that you are not getting oil where it needs to be?
 

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Is it running on all three holes when it's running like crap? If it's not and throwing raw fuel into the exhaust it going to glow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No when it's running like crap.seems like it's running on 2.(thought that was limp mode) does this at 4 bars no light,then while running crappy temp will climb
 

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I think coolant will still flow through the overflow hose, even if there's significant air in the system. I could be wrong though.

There's a procedure that involves raising and lower each end of the sled when filling with coolant (for my 2017's). Does anyone know if the procedure is the same for the 2010?

The rear most part of the tunnel heat exchanger got hot to the touch?

Maybe it's just coincidental.....coil or coil plug issue when it's running on 2. Use the temp gun to find the coldest exhaust outlet, there's your problem cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The tunnel does get hoti do have a i.r.thermo.i will try it.i also did the fill procedure but didn't see any noticeable air escaping
 

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Friends 1200 Expedition manifold is glowing red also with loss of power, his just started doing it. Have not been able to diagnose the problem yet. Hope you find the problem as this has us stumped.
 

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I'm going from memory from reading it a while ago....because i haven't done it yet. I believe you fill it with the nose in the air first. This should theoretically purge all/most of the air as you are filling. I think you rev it with the rear in the air afterwards....I think.

I know this wasn't really helpful but, could help explain why you saw no air escaping.

Regarding glowing exhaust (both you guys)....in daylight you can see the manifold glowing red? I ask because I was running mine hard one NIGHT, and had my side cover open to check on clutch temps. I saw that the outlet of my exhaust manifold (or maybe it was the expansion chamber just after the donut gasket) was cherry red. But it cooled quickly after shutting it off. I assume this is normal but, I never noticed it before. So I dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I just went for a rip.started good ran super good to 3 bars soon as the 4 the bar appeared( or so it seems) went to 2 cylinders.came home checked exhaust PTO side cyl was 420 the other 2 were over 550. Didn't seem that hot....bad coil when warm??
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think if the coil does that it should throw a code( you would think) gonna take mine to dealer hopefully they can diagnose??
 

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So I just went for a rip.started good ran super good to 3 bars soon as the 4 the bar appeared( or so it seems) went to 2 cylinders.came home checked exhaust PTO side cyl was 420 the other 2 were over 550. Didn't seem that hot....bad coil when warm??
Swap coil with another cylinder. See if the cold cylinder follows the coil? I know there were issues with broken coil connector electrical pins. Not sure what model year that issue started being a problem.

Thanks for the info SBT. Hope you get it figured out.

Edit: If the cold cylinder follows the swapped coil, then it's probably the coil. If the cold cylinder stays the same after swapping coils, then it's probably the connector/pin. I think I remember reading that bad coils/pins don't always set a code/trigger limp mode. Don't ride it too long on 2 cylinders. The bum coil cylinder is probably still getting all the fuel it's supposed to get (if you're not in limp mode).
 

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do the swap test before you go. Might need a connector/pins too.

Also, (I don't have time to search for it on here right now, but) the plug is the same as some Toyota plug. An assembled pigtail connector that can be spliced in can be purchased from Toyota. I'll try to dig up the part number later.
 

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RPG
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Also, check to be sure your muffler pipes are sticking through the bottom of your belly pan and not plugged by belly pan. Easy mistake to make if your not careful.
 
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