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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a 2013 800 etec for the wife this summer. 3990 miles. Last night it was getting hot even with lots of snow and when the guage said overheating she immediately shut it off. We let it sit for 15 mins in -17 weather. And then I drove it. Seemed fine...in and off the trail temps fine. A coulple 5 sec hard puls and it seamed to drop in rpms once. Then next corner shut down. No codes , nothing. Stared only clicked. 5 mins later tried it again and it started but ran rough. Drove it out slowly to the road and it died again. At home now I can roll the clutch by hand so I'm just guessing she lost a piston maybe a cylinder.
Any ideas on what the cost is now in parts and labour?
 

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Wont kno until you tear it down and see what is wrong and what it took out. Sounds like you were either low on anti freeze or had a bad water pump?

Let me kno if you need a bottom end i have one for 800 etec with low miles.
 

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Mainway Solutions Inc.
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I was in your shoes 2 years ago with mine, I was told the injector was bad and took my pto piston out

It was covered under BRP warranty

They ended up replacing, two pistons, jug and both injectors. I think I'm sitting on a ticking time :explosion:

I hope I'm wrong :popcorn:
 

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You've burned it down. At a minimum, if the affected hole cleans up nicely with muriatic acid (it likely will), then you'll be in it for a top end. $600 or less using OEM parts, less if you use aftermarket slugs. This is just parts btw, you'll likely see at least that again in labor to pay a shop to do it.

You'll need to diagnose why it went though. Were you running stale fuel from last season? What condition are your throttle body boots in? You may want to do a pressure decay test before tear down. If your engine checks out it may be a bad injector (hope not cuz they're pricey).

I have an unproven theory that a high percentage of E-TEC lean burndowns are caused by iced fuel injectors. The location of the injectors and the fact that fuel is constantly cycled through the injectors will allow ice crystals to form and "pile up" in the injector, leaning it out and possibly damaging the injector. Because most people are running non-ethanol 91 in these things, they lack the de-icing benefit of ethanol fuel. I run non-ethanol 91 in mine as well, but I add 1/2 bottle of isopropyl at EVERY fill up. It seems to be working for me so far... :wink_old: ...
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's a 2013 so the boots should be perfect. Should.
Its got 4000miles on it and I think we just were not smart enough to watch temperature numbers and it got hot.
Rolling it over by hand and finger in the hole I can tell the mag side has nothing.

Question. Does this rebuild require the dealer for any special buds programming or can I just do it myself.
I thought I read somewhere that the rave valves need to be re sync d or something?

Thanks for any help guys
 

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It's a 2013 so the boots should be perfect. Should.
Its got 4000miles on it and I think we just were not smart enough to watch temperature numbers and it got hot.
Rolling it over by hand and finger in the hole I can tell the mag side has nothing.

Question. Does this rebuild require the dealer for any special buds programming or can I just do it myself.
I thought I read somewhere that the rave valves need to be re sync d or something?

Thanks for any help guys
You can doo it yourself. Re-sincing the raves is a mechanical procedure explained in the shop manual. I highly reccomend getting one before you start to refer to. I bought an electronic version via CD on ebay for like 15 bucks.
 

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What octane and Ethanol content (E0 or E10) was it last filled with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I decided to take it to dealer on MondaY. They will give a 30 day warranty and that should almost get us through the winter this year. Dam
 

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Is your premium 91/92, or are you referring to 93/94?
 

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I have an unproven theory that a high percentage of E-TEC lean burndowns are caused by iced fuel injectors. The location of the injectors and the fact that fuel is constantly cycled through the injectors will allow ice crystals to form and "pile up" in the injector, leaning it out and possibly damaging the injector. Because most people are running non-ethanol 91 in these things, they lack the de-icing benefit of ethanol fuel. I run non-ethanol 91 in mine as well, but I add 1/2 bottle of isopropyl at EVERY fill up. It seems to be working for me so far... :wink_old: ...
I think that your ice crystal theory has merit. And based on what I have read, using ethanol does not insure you won't develop ice crystals. If you are forced to use ethanol, use it up fast.

Ethanol (oxygenated) fuel attracts water vapor from the atmosphere. The water will "phase separate" (settle out) at very low concentrations when it is cold. Ethanol fuel will absorb(attract) 40-50 times more water than non-ethanol.

From the Ski Doo Operator's Guide:

Fuel Antifreeze Additives

When using oxygenated fuel, additional

gas line antifreeze or water absorbing

additives are not required and

should be not used.

When using non-oxygenated fuel, isopropyl

base gas line antifreeze can

be used in a proportion of 150ml

(5U.S. oz) of gas line antifreeze added

to 40 L (10.6 U.S. gal.) of gas.

This precaution is in order to reduce

the risk of frost buildup in fuel system

componentswhich may lead, in certain

cases, to severe damage to engine.

NOTE: Use only methyl hydrate free

gas line antifreeze.

I think that Roamer7 has the best plan... use non-ethanol and add fuel antifreeze (isopropyl i.e. red ISO-HEET, NOT yellow methanol HEET in 2 strokes). The non-ethanol will barely attract water and the fuel line antifreeze will reduce the chances that any water absorbed will phase separate, freeze, clog injectors, and cause a lean condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Humm. Wonder what the piston will say.

I've had good luck with shell advance oil and that's what previous owner used so we stuck with that. Now I'm questioning myself
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So on this Ice crystal theory.
My Question is why aren't they talking about ice crystals over on the procross 800 cat forums.

I know this 800 sips oil in comparison to my old 2012 f800 but maybe it should gulp a little more with all these failures or are they saying it has nothing to do with lubrication. ..??
 

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Very small percentage of failures. Our group is now over 20 800 etecs owned and ive yet to see one go down. There is probably 5 to 1 at least etec to 800 kitty on the snow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I really hope your right. It would be nice to get this fixed and be able to get another 4000 miles on it. She does not drive it hard by any means.
 

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So on this Ice crystal theory.
My Question is why aren't they talking about ice crystals over on the procross 800 cat forums.

I know this 800 sips oil in comparison to my old 2012 f800 but maybe it should gulp a little more with all these failures or are they saying it has nothing to do with lubrication. ..??
I have not checked the AC forums but that would be a good question. One answer might be the fuel injector design.

Ski Doo's DI (Direct Injection) is vastly different than anything that the other sled companies have.

As far a lubrication... also a good question. The EPA is driving engine designers to continue to reduce the emissions and unfortunately this means less oil. I am surprised that people do not talk about increasing the oil usage somehow. Easiest way is with a premix.

I switched to the dark side (4 stroke) last year because the reliability/longevity of the modern 2 stroke is not enough for me. I do not care about being the fastest.
 
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