I did it last winter in the parking lot at Renze in Munising. It's about a 40 minute job with the right tools.

Remove Hood and Air Box. Then you can get to them with a snub handle rachet and universal joint through the A-frame pretty easy.

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Not sure why you guys are removing the air box, don't waste your time. Remove the hood, side panels, clutch cover and useless piece of plastic behind the secondary (throw it away) and you can get to the plugs. I've changed mine twice now takes a regular ratchet, a deep well socket and about a half a beer start to finish. :Cheers

 

Takes me two beers to start changing plugs and one more to finish!

 

PM Sent

 

I don’t remove the airbox. Hood off, remove the rubber between the two air boxes. Flex head ratchet and socket for the pto side. Socket and wrench for the mag side.

 

Good information on how to access the plugs. Thanks guys.

 

Sounds like the trick is to remove the rubber boot on the air box. Hopefully I can see the plugs for indexing verification.

Thanks all.

Saber

 

Is spark plug indexing still necessary?

 

Is spark plug indexing still necessary?

Yes it is

 

Getting them indexed is scary. It seams like you are turning the wrench so hard that you swear you're going to break or strip something. You just have to realize your hand and wrench is in an awkward position. That's the worst part. I don't know how they expect you to torque them.

 

Here's a link to another thread that may help.

https://www.dootalk.com/forums/topic/1576167-factory-spark-plug-indexing/?hl=plugs

 

Turns out my friend wanted to do some other mods so I took out air box . I loosed the gas tank and moved it back to get box out.

Now changing the plugs was super easy. Torque wrench fit just fine. Could check the plug index just fine too.

The plugs looked dirty but they were working. They were BRP sourced plugs bought from Ingles and the indexing was perfect when torqued 20 ft lbs. The index changed noticeably the last few pounds of torque. Not using a torque wrench risks getting the index off some amount. I don't know how important indexing is though.

 

Air box can be removed without loosening gas tank.Its tight but doable

 

Take Jackshaft out , with the right tools is very easy and quick!

 

Just did mine yesterday. I was also doing the Grip N Rip alignment at the same time so it worked out well. Having the secondary out definitely makes it a lot easier. I didn’t need to do the plugs, but I figured since I have 3000+ miles on the sled and had the jack shaft out might as well do them. Long as you mark your plugs when installing it’s pretty easy just used a spark plug socket and a 19mm wrench.

 

Ya I will be taking jackshaft out next time to give proper room as well

 

So the gen 4 airbox doesn't slide out like the xp/xs sleds?

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So the gen 4 airbox doesn't slide out like the xp/xs sleds?

No sir! It's a PITA. I left my airbox in but removed the jackshaft (it was out anyway, to install HD rollers).

One of my OEM plugs wasn't indexed correctly. Like it was 100% incorrect, worst possible position. And my sled ran great!

 

So the gen 4 airbox doesn't slide out like the xp/xs sleds?

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No, remove the electrical cables so you can get more room to work it up and out. First time was a pain but I can replace a head from start to finish in a beer now

 

I don't bother with the airbox, just the jackshaft. Mark the plugs with sharpie to ensure they're indexed properly, and then some quick math allows me to get a torque wrench on my regular wrench and make sure it's all good. Not easy, but not that difficult either.

Changing plugs is important even on ETECs. Indexing plugs is critical.

 

Indexing is SUPPOSED to be critical but according to more than one 850 owner they are not indexed even from the factory installs. More than one person has replied on this. But, do as you wish. It may matter to the user of the machine! (oh and add a few Monster stickers too. They add HP too)

 

I did a search and didn't see anything, but I didn't look too hard. I think what most people miss is that it's pretty hard for a plug to not index. It's only an issue if the ground strap points directly at the injector. I'd bet the people claiming it's not an issue or that doo doesn't index them, don't understand this - or what it happens when it's not indexed.

As you say, to each their own... lots of people think loctite is a substitute for a torque wrench too, I'm just not one of them

 

Can someone show me the type of tool/wrench I should get to remove the plugs?

 

Remove the hood assembly
I prefer to remove the jackshaft/clutch assembly
5/8” deep socket, 3/8” drive would be best
3/8” flex head ratchet, some will use an open end wrench on the socket instead of the ratchet
Long needle nose for removing and installing spark plug boot clips
Sharpie to mark the indexing if you believe in this theory. That’s another discussion unless you want more info. about it now?

 

I just did mine. I pulled the secondary shaft and used a plug socket that has a hex on the top and a regular box wrench. The plugs were very easy, the boots on the other hand were a pain.

 

The tools mentioned in #24 was how i did it too. I did get mine torqued and indexed to the 15 degree point. It runs fine on my 3 mile test a week or so ago. (only snow this year so far in my yard)

 

Great information, and looking to do my plugs this weekend. Can anyone pass on a link or information about removing the secondary and shaft? Thanks!

 

Do you have the top gear holding tool? Without it you will have to open up the chaincase because the top gear will fall when you remove the shaft.