I estimate current draw for a Single heated seat pad at 1 amp.

2 seat pads are rated at 27 watts which comes out to around 2 amps so 1 seat pad should draw about a single amp.

Btw I just went through both sleds and while doing maintenance pulled the regulators and cleaned them and the sub frame with a wire brush and re-installed with di-electric grease to prevent corrosion.

Thanks again for your advice and experience.

 

I installed similar ones on a friend’s machine last month. I tied the power to the heated grips. He loves them, and it went very easily.

 

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Envoyé de mon SM-G930W8 en utilisant Tapatalk

 

If they are only an amp you should be plenty fine on power usage. It sounds like your plan is well thought out, I don't see any issues. If you want to cut your electrical consumption, you are correct that going to LED from incandescent will free up a lot (a roughly 55 watt single bulb would drop down to 15-20 watts, double that if you have two)

 

I put heated seats in my truck and they don't take much juice so I see no problem using them on a sled seat. The element pad takes a lot of abuse and keeps working. Just make sure they only work when it is running.

 

Is anybody able to confirm that the red and white wire beside the RER switch on my 2004 Skandic 550f Sport is an accessory wire?

it tests 13Vac at idle and drops then rises with RPM back to 13.

I do not have a manual for this sled. I reviewed the 2002 shop manual and wasn't able to find anything?

I would like to confirm that the 12vdc + from the heated seat can be connected here and that the 12vdc- can be connected to chassis ground?

If not I will connect to the lighting circuit.

Thanks

 

Update.

According to my DMM each seat pad actually draws 1.8 amps at full power.

The kits do not include a resistor. The two heat levels are controlled by using a relay to run the heating pads in series (low) or parallel (high).

I installed a single heated seat pad under the drivers seats only. It took two layers of batting under the new replacement vinyl to hide the outline of the seat pad and cover the wires up.

I found an unused yellow and yellow and black connector under the console of the o4 Skandic 550f and I tapped into the yellow and yellow and black black wire at the reverse buzzer on the 1997 Skandic 500.

I have ordered two SPDT switches and 50W resistors with the same resistance value as a heating pad. I plan to set up a three position control switch like the grips and thumb.

For now I have them wired up full time full power. I'm hoping for a test ride tomorrow with the family.

update -18c today. You can feel the heat there but it's not overwhelming. I'll update after I install the switch and resistor and ride it on a warmer day.

 

The ones for my Ford truck have disc the size of a dime which is a thermistor that the element wire ends solders to (one on each side) It's just a break in the wire that heats up to the point where it won't conduct anymore until it cools down which regulates the heat. It also has a little computer that helps with regulating the heat. When I took my seat apart one wire was fried where it bridges a trough and it came loose at one side of the (dime size) resistor. (All good now). The pads with the tiny element wires in them will take a lot of abuse as long as they don't bridge any gaps. I don't see why you couldn't use one of the universal ones sold online for vehicles on a sled. If it ever breaks an element wire you can easily solder in a little larger piece of wire to splice it and you can easily check for the short with a multimeter.