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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, here's the deal. I have my rear skid out right now because I'm putting on stiffer torsion springs, a stiffer spring for the center shock, and new hyfax. While looking things over on the sled tonight I noticed a little problem. The bolt hole on the right hand side of the sled for the front arm of the skid is slightly "wobbled" out! I noticed that when I took the skid out to replace the hifax the first time (this is the second time having it out) that the nut was pretty loose on that bolt, but didn't think too much about it. And, I KNOW that I had it good and tight when I re-installed the skid the first time, so I did not cause this to happen. So, it must have been loose from the factory. Now my question is, what should I do about this? Drill it out to the next bigger bolt size and put a bigger bolt in it and forget about it? Tell my dealer about it? (which they'll probably do the same as I would) What else can be done? I don't want to just leave it alone as it will probably get worse and ruin the tunnel. Take a look at the pics below. The one with the yellow arrow is the wobbled out hole, with the arrow pointing to the bad side of the hole. The other pic is the other side of the sled that the hole is fine, I'm just showing it to compare to the bad side.

What should I do here guys? This really bums me out that this had to happen to my first brand new sled with only 1300 miles on it.....
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated!



 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fatboy said:
Is the bottom pic. threaded?
[snapback]303401[/snapback]​
No, both holes are "through" holes...a nut threads onto the bolt from inside the tunnel.
 

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734 Power
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If your skid is still out take a chunk of flat metal on the backside and a chunk of wood on the front side and pound it flat again, or you could put a large fender washer on there when you put it back together, that should flatten it out some
 

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if it was me i would take it to your dealer since it is still under warrenty no matter what he would do so then they can write down what happened and if they fix it and it do works or getts worse they will have to deal with it since it is under warrenty. just my 2 cents
 

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Doo Pilot
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Those are the front upper arm holes. they take a pounding everytime you jump and land ,also everytime you hit a mogul.
You can't change the size of the bolt because it goes into a slieve in the upper arm.
You can weld it and redrill it .looks like it was loose from the factory.
There are other things that could be done! a thicker aluminum bung could be welded in there.
I would also let my dealer know about it
Or not worry about it torque it to spec and ride it like you stole it
 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
REV_X said:
If your skid is still out take a chunk of flat metal on the backside and a chunk of wood on the front side and pound it flat again, or you could put a large fender washer on there when you put it back together, that should flatten it out some
[snapback]303421[/snapback]​
The hole mostly just elongated, not really "twisted"...so no need to flatten it out. I'll probably take a file to the small burr that formed on the outside of the tunnel to smooth it out though.
 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
GSX800HO said:
You can't change the size of the bolt because it goes into a slieve in the upper arm.
[snapback]303445[/snapback]​
If I were to drill it out a bit larger, I would also drill out that sleeve to match the hole in the tunnel.
 

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i know how bad you want to ride just take it to the dealer, those front bolt take a BIG pounding, and you did not pay the big money for you to keep on fixing it.
 

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Maybe take it to a local welding shop to fill it in then redrill it?is a option ,I am not sure what if any your dealer would do for yah P.S. looks like it had no loctite on it those bolts take a pounding
 

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2011 RMK PRO 155
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Had this happen to a buddy of mine's 98 Formula Z 670 with the ARM suspension, but his was much worse, his only option was to have a welder TIG weld the hole closed and redrill. Yours does not look that bad, but for reliability I would have it welded closed and redrill. When you reinstall the bolts, make sure they are TIGHT and put some loc-tite on the threads to keep them tight, as this area takes a beating. Good luck Matt, Kevin
 

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Doo Pilot
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99MXZ600 said:
GSX800HO said:
You can't change the size of the bolt because it goes into a slieve in the upper arm.
[snapback]303445[/snapback]​
If I were to drill it out a bit larger, I would also drill out that sleeve to match the hole in the tunnel.
[snapback]303453[/snapback]​
Yes ,but then you weaken the slieve the arm pivots on .I wouldn't do that.
Rich
 

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99MXZ600 said:
Ok, here's the deal. I have my rear skid out right now because I'm putting on stiffer torsion springs, a stiffer spring for the center shock, and new hyfax. While looking things over on the sled tonight I noticed a little problem. The bolt hole on the right hand side of the sled for the front arm of the skid is slightly "wobbled" out! I noticed that when I took the skid out to replace the hifax the first time (this is the second time having it out) that the nut was pretty loose on that bolt, but didn't think too much about it. And, I KNOW that I had it good and tight when I re-installed the skid the first time, so I did not cause this to happen. So, it must have been loose from the factory. Now my question is, what should I do about this? Drill it out to the next bigger bolt size and put a bigger bolt in it and forget about it? Tell my dealer about it? (which they'll probably do the same as I would) What else can be done? I don't want to just leave it alone as it will probably get worse and ruin the tunnel. Take a look at the pics below. The one with the yellow arrow is the wobbled out hole, with the arrow pointing to the bad side of the hole. The other pic is the other side of the sled that the hole is fine, I'm just showing it to compare to the bad side.

What should I do here guys? This really bums me out that this had to happen to my first brand new sled with only 1300 miles on it.....
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated!




[snapback]303355[/snapback]​
that nut and bolt assembly is a locking nut type and has specific tourque specs. which allow the front swingarm asssembly to function properly. it NOT supposed to be over tightened. pm saltarev and get the torque specs from him...he has a service manual..or asl your dealer what the torque specs are... i had mine out twice and the dealer mechanic wrote the specs down for me but i just looked and i don't know where the heck i put'em...the bushing in there is pretty thin as it is so i don't think drilling it oversized is an option. you could make another aluminum plate to put over the hole doo a nice job of it and rivet it onto the tunnel for reinforcement of both holes to strenthen it even further....good luck..
 

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it seems to me that now would be that perfect time to drill out the hole below it and relocate the front arm to lessen the heavy steering we all complain about
 

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Shoooow meeee the POWDER!!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
skidont said:
it seems to me that now would be that perfect time to drill out the hole below it and relocate the front arm to lessen the heavy steering we all complain about

[snapback]303540[/snapback]​
Yeah, I was thinking about that too....especially since Bodacious had good results with relocating his.
 

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The right side on mine came loose also. I kept tighening it and then pulled down the front arm to investigate. The front arm has an offset that holds a bushing. The bushing is held stationary by the bolt (when it is tight) and the front arm pivots on this bushing when you hit bumps. The offset/front arm must move/pivot on the bushing. I found mine to be corroded a bit and I suspect was causing the bushing to work/move and loosen the bolt/nut. I cleaned and greased the bushing and offset so the bushing worked freely and then reinstalled the bolt with a larger washer on the outside of the tunnel and an additional lock washer under the nut on the inside. 300 miles latter it is still tight. If that bushing is kept greased I dont think the bolt/nut will work loose. I plan to drill the offset and tap in a grease zerk when I take the skid out for service. The hole in my tunnel was not distorted. It does not appear yours is too bad either. If you go with a bigger bolt you will have to drill the bushing also. The bushing must be pulled up tight against the tunnel. I would consider a grease zerk while you have it out. The prior SC-3 skid pivoted on the front arm shaft and it was greaseable. Now just offsets with bushings but they have to pivot or the torque loosens the bolt/nut..
 

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Dealer will probabely say its your Job to watch that all Bolts stay tight. BRP has all of those silly disclaimers in the Owners manual, and thats why.
I'd just use a big flat washer and tightenit back to spec and MAKE SURE to use Lock-tite! I didn't use locktite on mine and they all ended up loose almost immediately, so I pulled them and locktited them. They will work loose very quick with no threadlocker.
 

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i think they come from the factory with lock tite on them. Why could u get another piece of aluminum and rivit it on and drill a hole and get a 1/4 inch longer bolt?
 

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99MXZ600 said:
skidont said:
it seems to me that now would be that perfect time to drill out the hole below it and relocate the front arm to lessen the heavy steering we all complain about

[snapback]303540[/snapback]​
Yeah, I was thinking about that too....especially since Bodacious had good results with relocating his.
[snapback]303554[/snapback]​
The bolt should not have threads on the load bearing area. This is a poor design. I would go easy on that loc-tite idea. You may want to take it apart again some day, and it can be #@^*$ if the bolt dosen't break free.
 

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Mod'n is my thing
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Yes the factory uses Loctite on those skid bolts....Yes you should too. Blue loctite will work fine. You can make a thin piece of stainless to put behind the tunnel and rivet it on . All it will do is widen your tunnel a tiny bit.

Make sure you torque them to spec. as well.
 
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