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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this has probably been asked a million times, well here's 1,001,000. My 98 Mach 1 is stock except for Dynoport silencer, and 1 1/4 ice ripper. Not that it needs more power, i just want more. What mods does the Mach 1 respond well to? I know the key is getting the power to the ground when it's all said and done, and with that said, what is the best clutch kit / setup for the Mach 1? I like bolt on stuff, but have nothing against some porting if that offers the best bang. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
MachDream said:
I know this has probably been asked a million times, well here's 1,001,000. My 98 Mach 1 is stock except for Dynoport silencer, and 1 1/4 ice ripper. Not that it needs more power, i just want more. What mods does the Mach 1 respond well to? I know the key is getting the power to the ground when it's all said and done, and with that said, what is the best clutch kit / setup for the Mach 1? I like bolt on stuff, but have nothing against some porting if that offers the best bang. Thanks!
[snapback]711328[/snapback]​
Also, type of riding will be aggressive trails with aggressive drag racing across the lakes in between trails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MachDream said:
MachDream said:
I know this has probably been asked a million times, well here's 1,001,000. My 98 Mach 1 is stock except for Dynoport silencer, and 1 1/4 ice ripper. Not that it needs more power, i just want more. What mods does the Mach 1 respond well to? I know the key is getting the power to the ground when it's all said and done, and with that said, what is the best clutch kit / setup for the Mach 1? I like bolt on stuff, but have nothing against some porting if that offers the best bang. Thanks!
[snapback]711328[/snapback]​
Also, type of riding will be aggressive trails with aggressive drag racing across the lakes in between trails.
[snapback]711430[/snapback]​
Thanks for the info, I'll try that!!!
 

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MachDream said:
I know this has probably been asked a million times, well here's 1,001,000. My 98 Mach 1 is stock except for Dynoport silencer, and 1 1/4 ice ripper. Not that it needs more power, i just want more. What mods does the Mach 1 respond well to? I know the key is getting the power to the ground when it's all said and done, and with that said, what is the best clutch kit / setup for the Mach 1? I like bolt on stuff, but have nothing against some porting if that offers the best bang. Thanks!
[snapback]711328[/snapback]​
Call the crank shop 1-877-878-9692 they offer a .060 base gasket with a head cut gives 3-4hp I put a team roller secondary clutch which made a big difference in shifting, check your squish it should be around .060 to dome from top of piston (head cut) check compression across all cylinders, if you find a clutch kit that works good let me know, I have 19 gram pins and a purple/pink spring works pretty good I was 97 mph in 660' 2weeks ago won the stock & improved stock classes.Good Luck
 

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We do the cyl shim and replaceable domes on alot of our mach 1 trail setups and also straight up ported cyl's, this motor reacts well to porting,and trail pipes

porting
pipes
carb bore
clutch kit

no stock mach z ck3's will hang with it,if you need any help let me know thanks todd 1-260-833-2536.
 

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MachDream said:
I know this has probably been asked a million times, well here's 1,001,000. My 98 Mach 1 is stock except for Dynoport silencer, and 1 1/4 ice ripper. Not that it needs more power, i just want more. What mods does the Mach 1 respond well to? I know the key is getting the power to the ground when it's all said and done, and with that said, what is the best clutch kit / setup for the Mach 1? I like bolt on stuff, but have nothing against some porting if that offers the best bang. Thanks!
[snapback]711328[/snapback]​
I had a 98' fIII 700, I put a set of dyno port pipes on it, and i gutted the air box and the sled flew. I pretty much used their clutching set up, but they did not recomend gutting the air box. with out the air box gutted it was a dog, but with it gutted the sled was very fast. I sold it to my cousin and it is still pretty fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
dyna-tek racing said:
We do the cyl shim and replaceable domes on alot of our mach 1 trail setups and also straight up ported cyl's, this motor reacts well to porting,and trail pipes

porting
pipes
carb bore
clutch kit

no stock mach z ck3's will hang with it,if you need any help let me know thanks todd 1-260-833-2536.
[snapback]713165[/snapback]​
how much of an issue would it be to keep the stock pipes? I just got the dynoport 3 pack nickle silencer and i like it (just wondering).
How much for porting and clutch kit to get it to the ground?
 

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i think i need to do some more work on mine. i was told that when you get the head cut it tends to go thru pistons. i got jaws pipes and geared it down a couple teeth. clutched it the way they said and it woke up big time. i was racing a polaris sks 700 thats clutched, reeds and a can. he got out a head from the hole than i ran him down and was gone not even close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
GoingMach1 said:
i think i need to do some more work on mine. i was told that when you get the head cut it tends to go thru pistons. i got jaws pipes and geared it down a couple teeth. clutched it the way they said and it woke up big time. i was racing a polaris sks 700 thats clutched, reeds and a can. he got out a head from the hole than i ran him down and was gone not even close.
[snapback]714099[/snapback]​
That brings up a question i had. what is the stock gearing on my 98 Mach 1? i would like to drop a tooth (to a 25??) do i have to get a different chain? will i notice much of a difference by dropping 1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
MachDream said:
GoingMach1 said:
i think i need to do some more work on mine. i was told that when you get the head cut it tends to go thru pistons. i got jaws pipes and geared it down a couple teeth. clutched it the way they said and it woke up big time. i was racing a polaris sks 700 thats clutched, reeds and a can. he got out a head from the hole than i ran him down and was gone not even close.
[snapback]714099[/snapback]​
That brings up a question i had. what is the stock gearing on my 98 Mach 1? i would like to drop a tooth (to a 25??) do i have to get a different chain? will i notice much of a difference by dropping 1?
[snapback]714263[/snapback]​
Also can anyone tell me what the stock pin weight is and spring colors? Im dumb when it comes to clutching but im gonna start learning here real quick so i can get an optimum gear/clutch set up to make my Mach 1 fly.
 

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MachDream said:
]
Also can anyone tell me what the stock pin weight is and spring colors? Im dumb when it comes to clutching but im gonna start learning here real quick so i can get an optimum gear/clutch set up to make my Mach 1 fly.
[snapback]715265[/snapback]​
my 99 had a green/violet spring with 16.5 pins 25/43 gears,i dropped to a 23 top sprocket without chain change brought it to life didn't really lose any up top
ingles performance online has micro fiche and you can see break down of your sled
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
racingjunior8 said:
MachDream said:
]
Also can anyone tell me what the stock pin weight is and spring colors? Im dumb when it comes to clutching but im gonna start learning here real quick so i can get an optimum gear/clutch set up to make my Mach 1 fly.
[snapback]715265[/snapback]​
my 99 had a green/violet spring with 16.5 pins 25/43 gears,i dropped to a 23 top sprocket without chain change brought it to life didn't really lose any up top
ingles performance online has micro fiche and you can see break down of your sled

[snapback]715590[/snapback]​
So would this gear work for me?
http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_cata...0903&mmyId=8464

I will check out that website you suggested and have a look.
 

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i have the same setup as you (but) mine is ported and polished guted air box and the calibration screws are on #6 not #2 like it came from the factory.. adjusting the screws will give you higher rpms .each # modifies the rpms by about 200 rpm.
lower noumbers decrease and higher numbers increase in steps of 200 rpm.
example:
calibration screw is set at position 3 and is changed to position 5 .
so maximum engine rpm is increased by about 400 rpm .

to adjust loosen just enugh to pull head of the nut out and turn to desird position
DO NOT PULL ALL THE WAY OUT !!!!!!!!



i have also taken out the washers in the bolck "edit for bad language"'y so the wight will tranfer to the rear better and i get one hell of a bit by doing so

 
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