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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been working on turning my 96 Touring LE into an ice fishing machine. A week or so ago I started the machine (fired right up) and turned it off with the kill switch. Since then I removed the original hood and (today) replaced it from a hood from a '95 SL. I also disconnected the negative side of the battery as I was doing some welding to an auger mount I made that could ground to the frame through bolts. I also disconnected the taillight since I have to relocate it (rear cargo box for ice fishing covers the original location).

As far as I can think of, those are the only wiring related things I messed with. I reconnected the ground to the battery after I was done welding. I fired the sled up without a hood yesterday and noticed that neither the ignition nor the kill switch would turn off the sled (had to choke it out). Even though I know better, I tried to convince myself it was somehow caused by the hood wiring harness being disconnected. Put the new hood on tonight and plugged in the connections down by the hood hinge and (not surprisingly), sled still won't shut off with ignition or kill switch.

My first thought was that when I disconnected the negative on the battery that I failed to reconnect a ground but I can't see any unconnected wires anywhere near the negative terminal I disconnected and reconnected.

I see some mention in this forum? of black wire with white stripe by carbs that could be disconnected but I don't see such a wire.

Also saw comments about dieseling which I do not feel this is because everything worked fine a week ago and the motor sounds like it is fully under power.

Also saw some comments about possible bad stator :0(

Any suggestions? I'm not overly electrically inclined but I could do some basic trouble shooting with good guidance.

Thanks in advance.
 

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On Thin Ice with Steve
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Does the emergency tether shut the sled off?
It’s got to get seriously over heated to be dieseling. Like hot enough to melt the head gaskets. You would most likely have to pinch the fuel off to stop it if that was the issue.


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So it appears the 96 LE shuts down by grounding out the ignition coil through the bk/yl wire to the bk wire that grounds at or near the VR.
Because none of your switches function I might start with the bk wire. Ensure it's properly grounded at /near the VR and chase it back from there.
From that ground point it runs to a splice that splits 4 ways if you have reverse. 3 if you don't. (1 bk to the rev alarm; 1 to the tether; 1 to the kill; 1 to the key. The splice and the ground at the VR are the 2 common points for all switches.

If the bk checks out I would move to the bk/yl. It runs from the coil thru a connector or 2 then to a splice that splits 3 ways. (key; kill; tether) This would be another point of suspicion.

Obviously disconnect and inspect all connections in these circuits for melting or corrosion and continuity. Good luck.
Rectangle Slope Font Line Parallel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does the emergency tether shut the sled off?
It’s got to get seriously over heated to be dieseling. Like hot enough to melt the head gaskets. You would most likely have to pinch the fuel off to stop it if that was the issue.


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I tried this evening and tether does not turn off sled either. Plan to do some wire tracing tomorrow. Had a dealer tell me today that even though I disconnected negative on battery before I welded on machine that I may have fried the computer... not sure if he is considering the ignition a "computer" but as far as I know, there's not a computer per se on this sled... voltage regulator and ignition.
 

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On Thin Ice with Steve
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I tried this evening and tether does not turn off sled either. Plan to do some wire tracing tomorrow. Had a dealer tell me today that even though I disconnected negative on battery before I welded on machine that I may have fried the computer... not sure if he is considering the ignition a "computer" but as far as I know, there's not a computer per se on this sled... voltage regulator and ignition.
The coil has some magic smoke in it. Make sure the engine is still plugged into the chassis.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I found the issue. The black/yellow wire coming out of the CDI (ignition kill wire) backed out of the connector at the end of the wires coming out of the CDI. Prior to finding that used a multimeter to confirm the kill switch, key, and tether were all working at least down the connector behind the engine. I was excited to find the issue but that started a 3 hour fight to try to fix the problem. To start with, the connector in question was strategically buried under the carbs, behind the engine, in front of the air box and somewhat behind the clutches. I could get one hand on it, but not two and I really didnt want to pull the carbs. Eventually using a long, small screw driver in one hand and the connector in my other hand, I was able to disconnect the connector. That gave me just enough slack in the wires coming out of the CDI to try to reinstall the pin. Unfortunately the microscopic tab that locks the pin in the plastic connector had apparently broke off. I could seat the pin but there was nothin preventing it from pushing back out when I put the two halves of the connector back together. Local dealer didn't have any pins. 1 hour spent making a replacement tab and trying to solder it to the pin. I was surprised how well it looked and how small the solder was but alas, the pin would still not lock in the connector. Frustrated, I soldered a wire to the pin, covered it with heat shrink tube and jumped it back to the black/yellow wire on the exhaust can side of the engine. Problem solved but it was a very big PITA given the tight confines and broken pin. None-the-less, it's fixed and that's the main thing. Thank you to David H for his thorough suggested trouble shooting approach. I'm not very electrically inclined so without a starting point, I'm not sure I would have found the issue.
 
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